Radiator / Coolant Leaks

3 drops seems to be a small amount compared to what I have to keep adding in there after a short drive. If it is leaking internally, where would it be going? I have put a new radiator in there already, it is leaking more under the motor

You need to get it pressure tested to know exactly where it's going.
If it's ingesting it internally it is most likely the lower intake manifold gaskets.

3 drops is not much, but if you are seeing any drops, odds are good that under higher pressure is leaking more... you don't reach full pressure until you are driving for a while. That's why you need to have it pressure tested to see where it's going.

Thanks for your help. I guess i'll have to find a place to PT it.

Any radiator shop should have a pressure tester.

I have had a leak for a while, but it was minmal and I couldn't find it. A couple of weeks ago I took it to the shop, my mechanic pressure tested it, and HE didn't find it.
Well, I stopped in to have him change the oil last week and it let out a couple of drops while the oil was draining.
My mechanic tells me that my coolant leak (small leak) is coming from the elbow by the alternator.
Can anyone tell me how big of a job it is to change that elbow?
Parts required?

IIRC changing it is not that big a deal - it's *getting* one that is tough.

Albertj

I found a pair of those plastic elbows with o-rings attached at Advanced Auto Parts in the section of the store that has all those "HELP" products.
Cost me less than $5.00 IIRC.
I grabbed a set just to have on hand in case I need them in the future.
HELP P/N 47065 Heater Hose Fitting GM
Application: various GM Models with 3.8L 1995-2007

Yes, the plastic elbows are readily available in the 'help' section, they are very popular! You do have to remove the alternator to get the bracket off that contains the elbow. Be sure he has a good O-ring assortment on hand as well, there's another O-ring that should be replaced on the back of that alternator bracket/coolant manifold thingy while you have it out.

Thanks Deekster... Is there a write up for the removal/reassembly here somewhere?

I haven't seen a writeup, but it's only held on by a few bolts. Not that hard to figure out once you have the alternator out of the way.

Rickw wrote:

I found a pair of those plastic elbows with o-rings attached at Advanced Auto Parts in the section of the store that has all those "HELP" products.
Cost me less than $5.00 IIRC.
I grabbed a set just to have on hand in case I need them in the future.
HELP P/N 47065 Heater Hose Fitting GM
Application: various GM Models with 3.8L 1995-2007

I'll add this to my Zone List.

Albertj

I have a coolant leak between the front cover and the block, any tips on changing it out? I have changed a water pump on the car so I know how to get that far.
Thanks

One thing you should determine first - is it the plastic coolant elbow that goes from just under the alternator into the lower intake manifold, or is it the timing cover gasket? That will make a big difference in your instructions

When I did a pressure test it sprayed out between the cover and block on the grill side of the block.

Okay, so you need to remove the timing cover to fix it. In a nutshell you'll need to pull the alternator, tensioners, coil mount, front motor mount, harmonic balancer and timing cover. I'm not positive if you'd need to remove the A/C bracket, but I don't think so. Use a torque wrench on reassembly. I highly recommend a service manual to follow along step by step instructions.

It is sure is a bitch working on the Riv compared to my 87 limited. I thought getting rid of the Dexcool 30,000 miles ago was soon enough. Do not have the service manual so I will just have to figure it out like when the water pump was replaced. That power steering pump was tough.

Dennis,
For the Phoenix area I recommend a 180* thermostat be installed before you finish up the job. Before you reinstall coolant. That is if you haven't already installed one.
Even without reprogramming the PCM for different coolant fan turn on settings you will still see a small benefit in lower coolant temps while cruising.
Stuck in traffic you will probably still see the higher or normal temp of 195* to 210*F in the summer without some PCM programming.

Have the 180 already. My PCM is the bastard 96 version, not sure if I could make that change.

Got the bolt out of the crank, how do you get the pulley off? did not want to force off with a screwdriver because of the plastic piece surronding the pulley.

You will need to borrow the proper puller from the auto parts store.

The proper puller has special bolts using threaded holes inside 3 of the openings in front of the balancer.

96riv wrote:

Got the bolt out of the crank, how do you get the pulley off? did not want to force off with a screwdriver because of the plastic piece surronding the pulley.

It requires a harmonic balancer puller. Most of them don't come with the right bolts, so you'll need to get your own bolts with the correct metric thread (sorry, I can't remember the size. Memory says it's something around 6x1.25 and long but I'm not positive, it's a rather small bolt size but has to be long to reach the puller)

Rented the puller and it worked great except now the cover needs to be replaced because one corner where it was not leaking looks like shit. This job never will end. Now I have to remember how to put it back together. Hopefully I can find a replacement, because all of the local parts places did not have one. I used 1/4x 28x 3.5 grade 8 bolts and they were perfect. I hate this car.

Is it corrosion damage? Pitting could be fixed with JB weld and a flat file.

I am pretty sure the cover fits more then rivs .

98inSFl wrote:

Is it corrosion damage? Pitting could be fixed with JB weld and a flat file.

I am pretty sure the cover fits more then rivs .

This is more than pitting, there is a chunk missing and the Dex Cool did a number on other spots also. I will buy new, do not want to ever work on this again.