Radiator / Coolant Leaks

#1 I forget what the primary and secondary resistance is supposed be.
Will have to look in the FSM and post the Numbers as well as the procedure. I have to leave here shortly for an appointment, so I won't have time to look that up for you right now sorry.
Can anybody else post the resistance and explain the testing procedure for both primary and secondary wiring.

#2 No worry about discharging a coil. It does not hold or store any current. Your thinking of a capacitor - they need to be discharged before handling.

#3 IIRC it is a standard torx or hex head. I know it didn't require anything I didn't already have in the tool box.

#4 Dielectric grease, which can be bought any auto parts store in a tube, should be applied sparingly to the contacts themselves (the grease will not effect continuity) to help keep water from corroded the connector. As far as the surfaces of the ICM, I apply a thin coat to both the bottom and top, where the coils contact to prevent corrosion.

I really hope someone can get you that info on the resistance tests of the coils, as I'll be gone till late this evening, sorry.

no problem rick... thanks again.

Ill play around and see what kind of readings i get and clean everything up. with the winter we had I'm sure there's lots of salt dust in there.

BTW... I found a small leak from the "S" hose that comes down from the manifold cooling fitting (that I replaced last month) to the water pump ... cut off the old part of the hose, put on a new clamp and Ill check to see if its weeping any more. Hopefully thats the extent of my leak.

Jeff

OK... took all that stuff apart (pretty ridiculous how they designed that) and cleaned it. It was pretty corroded under the ICM. the contacts all looked good though.

I put Dielectric grease on all the connections so will test tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks

Jeff

jeffyd123 wrote:

Karma.. thanks for the info on the LIM gasket... I had broken plastic in the threads too. gotta be careful removing all of them. My Tstat went crazy for about a week after I changed it... car wouldn't warm up!.

Albertj... I was reading that most of the advance auto scanners wont read the OBD1.5 codes... I'll check Autozone... I plan on going down there today (the one near McKeesport) and I think Im going to just buy 3 of the coils as mine are stock.

It appears that alex peppers site is for OBD II only so it wont work on my dinosaur.

I do have 2 questions though...

1 - Doesn't a coil just completely fail as opposed to an intermittent failure? In my experience I've seen them just stop working but that was many years ago on an old 62 dodge powerwagon.

2 - could the base that the coil attach to go bad? would that be a more likely cause of an intermittent failure than coils?

thanks again guys

Jeff

I see Rickw already answered you.

As for new coils I'd just use the OE coils. The red or yellow ones are priced hig but not really any more powerful *for the SC version* so I would not bother. Just *don't* buy crap coils, try to stay with OE Delco/Delphi or NAPA Echlin or similar & you will be fine.

As for the base Rickw said use dielectric grease, that is OK but consider using "NOALOX" which is available at Home Depot back with the electrical boxes and what not. This is a conductive grease that stops corrosion on aluminum. Withe the dielectric grease, what you're doing is stopping corrosion but also putting an insulator where there is supposed to be contact. In reality this is no big deal, when you assemble the coil pack most gets squised aside anyway. Point is you will find NOALOX handy for a conductive grease for reconnecting grounds and such, and almost a lifetime supply is in one tube of the stuff unless you are a workign commercial electrician (then it's just several months supply).

Albertj

I agree about the aftermarket coils. Unless you are building an engine running so much boost you're blowing out the spark provided by the stock coils, they really aren't necessary. I couldn't tell any difference when I ran the MSD coils versus Delco units when I did my last EDIS swap.

Hi Guys,
Been driving the car for a few days and the hard miss seems to be gone for the most part... still happened a few times in the last 200 miles. I think Im going to replace the coils and maybe put my old plugs back in to test my idle (been slightly rough since I put in some AC delcos (not sure which ones they were... didnt do my reading first).

The car has another odd problem... When starting warm, after 10 minutes to maybe an hour or so, it wont idle unless I give it about 1/4 - 1/2 throttle for about 5 seconds until it revs up to about 2500 RPM. This has recently started after the weather has warmed up.
If I dont use any throttle, it limps along at about 300 RPM, stuttering and fumbling until it dies. After I get it to run smooth, it runs fine and has power.
Today it got much worse where it wouldnt start until I shut it off for about 30 seconds and nursed it up to 2500 RPM.
Im planning on doing seafoam (already put it in the tank with 91 octane and the oil and will be doing the suction treatment friday.

Any ideas? Im thinking the coils are weak? or maybe the idle air controller is sticking?

thanks

Jeff

jeffyd123 wrote:

Hi Guys,
Been driving the car for a few days and the hard miss seems to be gone for the most part... still happened a few times in the last 200 miles. I think Im going to replace the coils and maybe put my old plugs back in to test my idle (been slightly rough since I put in some AC delcos (not sure which ones they were... didnt do my reading first).

The car has another odd problem... When starting warm, after 10 minutes to maybe an hour or so, it wont idle unless I give it about 1/4 - 1/2 throttle for about 5 seconds until it revs up to about 2500 RPM. This has recently started after the weather has warmed up.
If I dont use any throttle, it limps along at about 300 RPM, stuttering and fumbling until it dies. After I get it to run smooth, it runs fine and has power.
Today it got much worse where it wouldnt start until I shut it off for about 30 seconds and nursed it up to 2500 RPM.
Im planning on doing seafoam (already put it in the tank with 91 octane and the oil and will be doing the suction treatment friday.

Any ideas? Im thinking the coils are weak? or maybe the idle air controller is sticking?

thanks

Jeff

Have you ever cleaned the throttle body? If not, pull it and clean it. Need instructions?

Albertj

Pressure test the cooling system. Could be LIM gaskets failing, sucking coolant into the cylinders. (Did the S1 3800 have plastic OE LIM gaskets?)

deekster_caddy wrote:

Pressure test the cooling system. Could be LIM gaskets failing, sucking coolant into the cylinders. (Did the S1 3800 have plastic OE LIM gaskets?)

From what Karma mentioned above, that's how they came from the factory and that's what the replacements are.

albertj - Thats a good idea... is there a write-up on that? Looks like its a job to take off. I got MAF safe cleaner.

Deekster - cooling system is holding pressure. the leak I originally had was the "S" hose from the manifold to the water pump.

So you guys dont think the idle air controller is sticking? I guess I could clean it when I take off the TB.

thanks for the help.

jeffyd123 wrote:

albertj - Thats a good idea... is there a write-up on that? Looks like its a job to take off. I got MAF safe cleaner.

Deekster - cooling system is holding pressure. the leak I originally had was the "S" hose from the manifold to the water pump.

So you guys dont think the idle air controller is sticking? I guess I could clean it when I take off the TB.

thanks for the help.

Best "write up" would be the factory service manual. Do you have one or have access to one? That failing just search for 'throttle body cleaning' on this site, there's been more than one post about it. Basically, first you'll get replacement gaskets and a set of 'tamper proof torx' bits, and a warning not to damage the TB.

Albertj

ya albert i searched till my eyes bled last night but found nothing specifically about removing it. I did read an article a couple weeks ago about the bolts but mine looked like standard hex head bolts (about 8MM).

I assume there is 4 of them and the lower ones look like a bitch to get to.

I thought I read the M62 SC has a oil drain plug behind the SC... is that true?

Im going to do the SC oil (5w30 Mobil1/lucas) but I couldn't find the plug. I'm thinking maybe I should take off the SC to drain it and do the TB while its off.

The car started good today ... only once did it stumble on a warm start. Im thinking the seafoam in the gas might have helped. There also was no hard miss on hill climbing in Overdrive. Ill be doing the seafoam suction treatment this weekend.

thanks for the advice albert.

Jeff

Well, if you want to take the SC off, there is a how-to in the beginning of this writeup:
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-i-engine-transmission-f13/write-up-lower-intake-manifold-change-on-a-95-t4250.htm#54603

If there are any specific pics you want for taking the TB off, I'm pulling the SC this weekend, and I suppose I could do a mini-how-to for JUST removing the TB.

That would be a huge help karma... Im looking at the TB and cant seem to find where the lower-rear bolt is. Any pics of the TB when the SC is off would really help.

I am getting a fel-pro TB gasket tomorrow and will be removing/cleaning it on Monday

Does anyone know if the 95 SC does have a drain plug on the back?. I have read that it does and that it doesn't and SC removal is required (which I find hard to believe)..

There is a drain plug on the snout, it should be very visible looking at it. The TB is 3 bolts. I'm afraid that it took much longer to get the car out of winter storage on the weekend, so I didn't end up pulling anything.

OK Karma thanks. Ill look for it.

Getting the gaskets today and Im going to tear into it on tuesday.

Jeff

My car is running at 190, with the 180 thermostat. The odd thing is that it now shoots up to 190 within 4 minutes of starting, where it used to climb. When I turn the car off, coolant sprays from the driver's side top of radiator. I haven't removed the panel to determine the exact location.

I did Check the hoses from radiator, top was hot, bottom was cool. I heard the squealing and bought a new water pump. the old one looks fine, and it's the compressor that's actually squealing.

There were no leaks from the water pump area.

So, i'm replacing the compressor, and peeling off the panel to pinpoint the radiator area leak. What else should I check for?

I feel like I'm restoring this vehicle...

195k miles, rest is in siggy,
thanks all!

i went through the restoration process at 120k miles
It's nice piece of mind knowing that most things on my car are new(ish) and should not break anytime soon.

as for the temps. my car is at operating temp in about 4min too. i dont know what your ambient temps are like but its in the 80's here and sitting in traffic i'll see 195* with the 180 t-stat. should drop pretty fast once you start moving and get suficent air flow. (greater than 30mph)

The coolant shooting out the pressure cap is alarming though. you may want to get a new radiator cap to make sure it is indeed holding in 15psi.
Flush the system, re-fill with new coolant/water and maybe add some water wetter to the mix. I have had good luck with the stuff and my car runs pretty cool on the highway even when its 100+ outside.

Mr.Riviera wrote:

i went through the restoration process at 120k miles
It's nice piece of mind knowing that most things on my car are new(ish) and should not break anytime soon.

as for the temps. my car is at operating temp in about 4min too. i dont know what your ambient temps are like but its in the 80's here and sitting in traffic i'll see 195* with the 180 t-stat. should drop pretty fast once you start moving and get suficent air flow. (greater than 30mph)

The coolant shooting out the pressure cap is alarming though. you may want to get a new radiator cap to make sure it is indeed holding in 15psi.
Flush the system, re-fill with new coolant/water and maybe add some water wetter to the mix. I have had good luck with the stuff and my car runs pretty cool on the highway even when its 100+ outside.

Ummm.... rad cap is on Passenger side top. Driver side top sounds like a cracked tank. Time to repair or relace the rad, slightly tedious but not a bad deal. If you want to save some time, get a used rad from Ed Morad, which he will sell as an assembly with the fans attached--saves time.

compressor skweel might be from the clutch getting wetted with radiator juice.

Albertj

read too quickly. scratch my cap idea...

I recently replaced my rad because it had a crack near the top of the tank by the rad hose on the driver side. The tanks are mad of plastic and are prone to cracking. Mine was a slow dribble, if yours is spraying everywhere youre gonna need to do it ASAP. Its not a big job, drain rad, remove panel, disconnect hoses, disconnect fans, disconnect temp sensor, took me about two hours. The biggest pain in the butt for me was the price, about $280 CDN, still cheaper then having it repaired. Good luck!

A few people have suffered failures in that area, on the drivers side. Possible plastic tank separating from the aluminum.
Local Auto Store price was about $200.00 IIRC
You can always try EBay for a better price but I personally would not get a radiator off Ebay.
If I had a problem with it, be it bad out of the box, I would like the piece of mind to bring it back locally, for however long the warranty period is.

As far as replacing the A/C Clutch, do I remember someone on here saying that you can use an Harmonic Balancer puller to remove it.?
I would ask at the auto parts store or wait for someone to pipe up on here.
I know it is not difficult to replace, just need to know what puller to use.
I noticed a New Harmonic Balancer Puller for $17.00 at Advanced Auto Parts the other day, if that is indeed the puller that can be used.

Thanks for all the info.

I did go ahead and replace the water pump since I had everything torn out anyway, and it was only a $40 part. It's a head scratcher, but it took care of the temp problem I was having. the old pump has no visible defects and spins freely, never leaked.

I've yet to pull the radiator out, has anyone had any experience with getting one repaired? We have a shop in town that offers the service, but I have no idea what it runs for ($).

jonly wrote:

Thanks for all the info.

I did go ahead and replace the water pump since I had everything torn out anyway, and it was only a $40 part. It's a head scratcher, but it took care of the temp problem I was having. the old pump has no visible defects and spins freely, never leaked.

I've yet to pull the radiator out, has anyone had any experience with getting one repaired? We have a shop in town that offers the service, but I have no idea what it runs for ($).

I had a '69 Rambler that overheated, water pump did not weep or seem bad - but it turned out that when the car got up to temp the impeller (which was stamped steel) expanded enough that it'd let go of the axle.

Albertj

jonly wrote:

Thanks for all the info.

I did go ahead and replace the water pump since I had everything torn out anyway, and it was only a $40 part. It's a head scratcher, but it took care of the temp problem I was having. the old pump has no visible defects and spins freely, never leaked.

I've yet to pull the radiator out, has anyone had any experience with getting one repaired? We have a shop in town that offers the service, but I have no idea what it runs for ($).

Water pumps can and do fail without leaking, they won't push enough water through the system to keep it cool. Glad you changed and didn't return the pump otherwise you would still be scratching your head.

Regarding knowledge of repairing these Radiators. deekster_caddy, Derek, had his tank seperate on the drivers side and used a very well known and respected radiator shop to repair his to save some money,
All was good for, I don't know, maybe a couple of months and then it separated again and he bought a new radiator.
The bitch of it was not only the cost to repair it at first, but the labor (twice) to remove and replace, finally with a new one.
I know after his experience he would say buy new and after seeing his radiator and the separation of the plastic from the aluminum, I would also recommend buying a new one with some sort of warranty to prevent future headaches.