pin hole in fuel line

So today I noticed a strong fuel scent while driving, and when I tried to start the car it took forever. I opened the hood to find that fuel was shooting out of one of my fuel lines. I did a small splice as a temporary fix but was wondering about how much one of the fuel lines cost. It's one of the ones that come out of the fire wall metal, go up near the hood and bend toward the middle of the car and have a plastic line heat shrunk to it. then it bends around over the supercharger and hooks to another metal line that looks to go to the fuel rail.

About how much will a replacement cost and how hard is it going to be to replace it?

If I could just replace the plastic part it would be easy, but it looks like the metal and plastic will all come as one part.

This is one of those things... if I could not find a replacement line and swap it out within a day or two, I would just take it in to a mechanic or dealer to see what they will charge. Fuel leaks are scary stuff on our cars, because the line pressures are very high, so your patch will probably not last long. Due to risk of a fire, I would not drive the car, but if you have to, do not push it to WOT under any circumstances.

If you have the extra time and the money, you can also go with braided fuel lines. It's more involved, but should last forever:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-ii-engine-transmission-f4/write-up-ss-braided-fuel-lines-t3086.htm

I would stop driving it until you fix that. The fuel comes down dangerously near the exhaust pipes.

The nylon/plastic fuel lines are available from auto parts stores, I forget the name or part number but IIRC most autozones and NAPAs have them in stock. They are hard to install (I think heat is required to soften the nylon), and going to braided lines is really not a bad idea if you are up for it.

The connector kits are $15-20 each at parts stores; if I remember right the dealers have/can readily get repair kits for you for all the lines but I don't remember details.

I think stainless braided line kits are not hard to find on the internet.

Also didn't someone post the p/n for a Dorman repair kit a while back?

Albertj

It is Dorman part # 800-058 for reference

i had the same problem i got my part from pep boys about 20 bucks .

I had the same leak.
I found the replacement easy to install.
It comes with a metal hose barb.
Per the instuctions, I used boiling water to attach the barb and form the new line close in shape to the old section which I cut out beforehand.
Since you can't get the remaining piece that is on the car in boiling water to soften it, I very carefully used a heat gun to soften the old line and slid the barb into it.

That was almost a year ago, and it's still holding.

96RIVMANN wrote:

It is Dorman part # 800-058 for reference

Just get the repair kit. I think you will find several list members have used it with good results.

A good blow-dryer hair dryer probably throws enough heat for this - I've never tried that but I would after drying out the gas from the section I was repairing. And by the way, come to think of it boiling water would be Just The Right Temp for softening the nylon for forming the replacement lines and installation of fittings.

Albertj

If I remember correctly, someone on here reported that they were able to remove the old plastic tube with a very sharp or new utility blade and did as you said. They softened the new tubing ends in very hot to boiling water and had a Hair Dryer available in case it was needed to completely fit the new section of plastic tube over the original section of Aluminum Tube.
If the the tube, as removed from the HOT water, starts to go on, but doesn't finish all the way then have the hair dryer plugged in and ready to go, set at hot to continue softening the plastic tubing to fit over the aluminum fuel tube. The ideal fitment is for you to be able to slip the new tubing on in a continuous manner.
I personally have never done it before but wouldn't hesitate to try with a Dorman kit and being able to try to replace in a continuous fashion for a good leak free seal.
Just be cautious when working around fuel, that's all.

I bought the cheap Dorman 058 kit for my leaky fuel line. I should have measured my old one because it is not long enough for a direct replacement. I wasted 15 bucks because I did not want to splice into existing fuel line. I dug around in my garage and found some 3/8 rubber high pressure fuel line and 4 clamps and 5 minutes later the job was complete. probably not aesthetically pleasing for some of you but with the cover on it looks ok.

I had the same thing. Driving home from school with the defrost on, and all the sudden i smelled a ton of gas. I used that dorman splice. It been working with no leaks for 3 months, but come spring im switching the fuel lines from the firewall forward to stainless braided and AN fittings.

Although the Dorman repair is more cosmetically appealing, I replaced mine with 3/8 ID rubber. When the snow goes away, I'll look at something better.

my splice is 3/8 ID high pressure rubber line, and seems to be holding strong. Sorry for the late response. When I get some money I'll probably replace with stainless braided. Had to replace the fuel pump this past summer and I can't believe how much that set me back. Hopefully this one lasts another 190k miles. And hopefully the rubber line lasts into this summer...New belts, fuel lines, turn signal bulbs, brights, and drivers side harness for the wheel speed sensor. Then whatever else goes bad on top of that.

reviving an old topic. My temporary fix has finally failed so I'm looking into repairing it properly now. If I went with steel braided lines, what all would I need to swap over? I'm seeing that the nylon Dorman part is $20 at advance auto (haven't really shopped around yet, just checking prices). At Auto zone I can get 3' of 3/8" id braided lines for the same price. Would I need to buy more stuff, and is the process very labor intensive?

this happened to me last year. my mechanic ( 40 years in the buisness ) spliced mine with a metal repair section , heated the nylon then clamped the ends as a precaution( he also barbed the metal line or somethin like that to give it grip) have had no problems and the part was only about 10-20 bucks. i helped put it in and even cut the metal line to fit and bent it myself. <3 my mechanic! lol

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-ii-engine-transmission-f4/write-up-ss-braided-fuel-lines-t3086.htm

Bought the dorman 800-058 today. Will be putting it on thursday since I have the day off (If weather permits...it's been raining a lot here). Maybe some day down the line I'll replace with stainless...just rather get it on the road right now.

Took the damaged line off just a few minutes ago and the new one happens to be about an inch or two short :/ Do they make the same kit just in a longer length?!?

try to straighten that line out by heating it up and making the bend less severe so you can make it work.

I went to pep-boys and bought the braided line for $25. First I tried that heat shrink splice kit... no luck. after the car sat in the sun it softened the line and it poped off! the new one from pep-boys is 3 feet long and seems to be holding very well.

i can sit the line straight from one connection to the other and it barely touches both :/ There's no making it work...might have to buy another piece of nylon and have a splice. Does the braided just hook right up?

duster_do_little wrote:

i can sit the line straight from one connection to the other and it barely touches both :/ There's no making it work...might have to buy another piece of nylon and have a splice. Does the braided just hook right up?

I wonder if Dorman changed the kit? used to not be a problem. The idea with the Dorman kit is that the line you are fixing is broken somewhere along its length. You cut the existing line cleanly at the break then use the Dorman kit (a union is supposed to come in the kit) to run new line from that splice to the fitting. Starting from the fitting end you use heat (and an insert rod, usually a wood dowel or some such, so the bends don't collapse) to bend the new line into shape.

Is the above what you tried to do?

The Dorman kit won't go from one connection to the other, it was never intended to...

That's the problem...When I got the kit I was just under the assumption it went from one fitting to the other (don't get why they wouldn't make it like that. 2 inches would give it enough room and you would be replacing the whole line). So I cut it all off (one end to the other). Now i'm to the point where I'm going to have to buy another nylon line (which is $19) to splice it all together. :/

duster_do_little wrote:

That's the problem...When I got the kit I was just under the assumption it went from one fitting to the other (don't get why they wouldn't make it like that. 2 inches would give it enough room and you would be replacing the whole line). So I cut it all off (one end to the other). Now i'm to the point where I'm going to have to buy another nylon line (which is $19) to splice it all together. :/

Just do what I did, buy some 3/8 fuel injector hose, 4 small clamps from local parts store. Replace the whole piece

I spliced it that way the last time and it started leaking after like 4 years. not as bad of a leak as before i fixed it, but a pretty steady drip, like a leaking faucet