My 95 riv starts for 2 sec then dies out. anyone know whats going on?

i have a 1995 buick riviera s/c we put a new fuel rail on and injectors on the rail i have 90 pounds of pressure before the fuel rail and 40+ Pounds of pressure at the rail itself the car starts up but then it dies out in less than 2seconds we ran through a bunch of fuel pumps before this is not the issue this time. anyone know whats going on?

Does it die while trying to idle? I'd start by checking vacuum lines you had to mess with to change the rail.

Is'nt there a high low pressure switch? I always though that on start up the fuel pressure is higher then after a few seconds goes back to normal. That would give him the systems that he is experiencing.

I will check it out when I get home I checked the vaccum lines last night pulled it off and put them back on from taking the rail off. The pressurestays the same at idle im going to see if my pump is still running when the car is on for those few seconds its on.

And yes it dies when trying to idel

it could be so many things.clean,to rule out,all the sensors,MAF,EGR,AIC,etc..etc..a failing CPS can trigger a symptom like that.fouled injectors also.Having a 95 my self,I can say with certainty that your injectors are clogged.if original.

well the injectors i got off a guy on this website because it was acting up. the pump still runs while you start the car so thats rulled out. EGK valve was replaced about 2 years ago MAF,AIC is original on it ill tell my dad about it and we will check it out.

Try unplugging the MAF and then starting it. It may bog down a couple of times but if the MAF is faulty, the engine should eventually start up with it unplugged.

Is the CEL on and if so what's the code/cause?

Do you have FP when it stalls, or only before/after? Put a mechanical pressure gauge on it. Not sure about the '95 but I know later years had a FP relay under the back seat, it can be jumped to keep the FP on constantly.

it starts when i feather/pump the throtle as soon as i let it idle it dies off. FP runs while im starting the car and while it is running with the feathered throttle i can hear that in my trunk. No CEL codes have came up

I am puzzled.

is there maybe dirt or rust in the tank from a bad fuel filler pipe?

i cleaned that tank out maybe 2 months ago there was some rust in the tank but every time we replaced the filter i my dad replaced the fuel filter also but there was a lot of rust in there because the guy who had it before me had to get a new pump too and some of the rust was deposited in there but my dad drove it for about a year and a half or more bfore i got the car it was my 16th birthday present then i had issues with fuel pumps.

01roadstar wrote:

i cleaned that tank out maybe 2 months ago there was some rust in the tank but every time we replaced the filter i my dad replaced the fuel filter also but there was a lot of rust in there because the guy who had it before me had to get a new pump too and some of the rust was deposited in there but my dad drove it for about a year and a half or more bfore i got the car it was my 16th birthday present then i had issues with fuel pumps.

The original tank on a Gen 8 Riv is made of plastic. Do you think that maybe you need to find where that rust came from and fix that, and then flush the fuel pump, clean the strainer, etc. That is, maybe it is jamming from the crud and does not jam until after it runs a minute or so. When it stops the crud settles away and it'll spin again enough to get the engine to start.

My guess is you will need to replace the fuel filler pipe. There is info on this site elsewhere about that, although I can't find it right this sec. You may be able to find one that exactly fits by phoning the people who run this site:

http://www.fillernecksupply.com/servlet/the-782/1995-95-1996-96/Detail

I realize it is a lot of work and I don't make the recommendation lightly - thing of it is, again, the car has a plastic tank. The rust came from somewhere else and until you eliminate that cause there is no amount of work you can do to the fuel rail or any other component that will fix it right.

we replaced that when we got it because it was rusted out. then when we pulled the pump off the first time the guy who had the car before me had the whole sending unit replaced. TODAY we ended up finding out that the injectors were clogged on the new fuel rail we bought but it has a delay when you push the pedal down so im gussing we need new injectors because we took off the ones i bought and those did not work... then we put on the older ones i took off before with the older fuel rail those ones work but it has the lag when you press the pedal down so thtats my problem the injectors? if anyone knows any site to get them cheap because im looking at 900$ to replace them all and if i dont get this car fixed i'll be getting a newer car and i dont want to let this one go but if i have to i will

A while back someone posted contact info for someone that cleans/reconsitions injectors. Might be worth finding.

As for buying replacement injectors, did you look at rockauto.com?

I have no idea if your problem is the injectors; reason I say that is that it is not apparent that you dropped and rinsed out the tank. You're already frustrated a bit because you'd replaced several fuel pumps before figuring out the tank contained a good bit of silt, which was loading the new pumps and getting forced down into the fuel rail.

Until you eliminate the causes of the silt in the tank and then flush it all out of the entire fuel system there is no amount of work you can do to the injectors, fuel rail or any other component that will fix it properly. For all I can tell it could be you have 2 good sets of injectors, they just need cleaned, and do you think you need to drop the tank and clean it out? do you think you need access to a machine that will pump dry gas or some such thru the fuel system to clean it out?

I like these guys for injector cleaning/flow testing. They've done several sets for me, always reasonable pricing and great work.

http://www.codymotorsports.com/

Like matt said on the first page, the symptoms youre describing sound like a bad MAF. Unplug the MAF and try starting the car, you may need to give it some gas until the idle smoothes out. If it idles with the MAF unplugged then you have a baf MAF, plug it in and see if it dies just to verify if this is really your problem. You can try cleaning it at this point but 9 times out of 10 the MAF is dead with these symptoms.