CV Joint & Axle/Shaft Replacement

Most of the parts you buy nowadays are remanufactured, unless specified as new. Even most of GM's axles are remanufactured. Warranty claims even get remanufactured axles installed sometimes. As long as there's nothing wrong with the splines on either end, it's completely rebuildable without any issues.

AA wrote:

Part numbers: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t7618-faq-the-holy-grail-of-riviera-part-numbers-diagrams#118520

Buying a new axle really doesn't make sense. It's not a wear/maintenance item, so no one buys them (would be like buying a new engine because the oil pan is leaking). Our axles and CV joints are so overbuilt, they shouldn't fail unless a lot of grease leaks out from a torn boot. If you caught yours in time, just have the boot replaced. Try not to drive with the boot torn unless it's getting to the shop!

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LOL yeah right. I boost all day with that torn boot. I will get it fixed soon, I SWEARZ IT>

Happened to mine once. They didn't install the boot securely when reinstalling the trans. On a scale of 1-10, I'd put a torn CV boot at about 9 for urgency. It's not much, and doesn't take long for a mechanic to do.

I'm still running that same axle and CV joint 110k miles later.

Will this also solve my leaky trans problem too? i can see moisture on the axle..

If it's actually transmission fluid, no.

charlieRobinson wrote:

Will this also solve my leaky trans problem too? i can see moisture on the axle..

No. The axle seal is worn. That's why it's leaking from the trans side...

its the seal around the axle, i believe. is the seal a separate part from the axle?

Are you talking about the big black rubber boot that covers the CV joint itself? Or are you talking about the seal that's installed into the side of the transmission?

The seal isn't too hard to replace. If the axle is being taken out to fix the boot, might as well replace the seal.

GREASE leaks from the boot.

TRANS FLUID leaks from the seal.

If it's on the passenger side, there's a chance it could also be PWR STEERING.

the boot around the CV is cut open.

Right now, im talking about a seal where the axle hooks up to the trans. I see this spongy orange material around the axle that looks wet like something is seeping out.

That's the axle seal that installs into the transmission. The orange you see, is actually the color of the metal on the seal. All it is, is a rubber lip seal that keeps the trans fluid from flying out while the axle is spinning. If it's a little wet, not puking fluid, you should be ok for now. But, if you're going to take the axle out anyway, why not replace it? It's not hard to do. Getting the old one out might be a little difficult, but installing a new one isn't hard at all.

Charlie, i have driver and passenger side axles from that GTP motor i bought. One of them seems fairly new and the other one looks stock. I cant remember which side is which. Im replacing them just for piece of mind when i put everything together, but id sell you one if you want to save some money/time at a junkyard lol

I need the drivers side! If you wanna sell, please PM/email/text me!

Sir Psycho Sexy wrote:

Charlie, i have driver and passenger side axles from that GTP motor i bought. One of them seems fairly new and the other one looks stock. I cant remember which side is which. Im replacing them just for piece of mind when i put everything together, but id sell you one if you want to save some money/time at a junkyard lol

I'm not sure they cross reference with the Riv - the GTP is not the same platform. (GTP = W body, Riv = G body)

98+ Rivs can use:

BUICK CENTURY (2000 - 2005)
BUICK LACROSSE (2005 - 2009)
BUICK LESABRE (2000 - 2005)
BUICK LUCERNE (2006 - 2008)
BUICK PARK AVENUE (1997 - 2005)
BUICK REGAL (1997 - 2004)
BUICK RIVIERA (1997 - 1999)
CHEVROLET IMPALA (2000 - 2010)
CHEVROLET MONTE CARLO (2000 - 2007)
CHEVROLET VENTURE (1999 - 2005)
OLDSMOBILE AURORA (2001 - 2002)
OLDSMOBILE INTRIGUE (1998 - 2002)
OLDSMOBILE SILHOUETTE (1999 - 2004)
PONTIAC BONNEVILLE (2000 - 2005)
PONTIAC GRAND PRIX (1997 - 2008)
PONTIAC MONTANA (1999 - 2005)

Anyone have any good or bad feedback on any of these? Which one should I get for my pass side?

cardone is my preference

Page 1 for the answer you probably aren't looking for. But it's the correct one.

If it were my money: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350624705950

Why are used CVs superior to reman/"new" CVs?

The last one I got at at advance auto parts was new and it has been working fine.

Where is this idea that the used are better coming from? What evidence is there to back this up?

I think its just recommended to get a used one to save the money because the OEM CV shafts should last the life of the car unless damaged. Its just not worth it to buy new if you have the option to find a used one.

Theres nothing wrong with new except for the $$$$$

Most "new" CV axles sold at local parts stores and online aren't really new. Some are, but most are remanufactured from cores from customers' cars with tens of thousands of miles. You're paying for cleaning, inspection, assembly, a new boot, and maybe replaced worn parts, re-grease. That's it. Even if they claim to be new, that doesn't always mean better. Sometimes the re-mans cheap out on important details, so the part doesn't fit. The web is littered with suckers who went to AutoZone for a "new" CV and had to replace it 3-4 times.

The idea that used is better comes from our cars going 200k miles or more on OEM axles - proof they're overbuilt and last forever unless you tear the boot. GM cared about certain components lasting 150k or more, so they used top-quality parts. Do the aftermarket companies use the same quality parts for re-build or new replacement? Not for the prices they charge.

Cardone Select (Not A1Cardone) is one of the few brands claiming to sell completely new axles. What's interesting is comparing prices for "new" Cardone Select CV axles vs. the re-man A1Cardone, built from a used OEM core. They charge $30 more for their re-man version. Seems even Cardone knows their re-built OEM are better quality than their new parts.

We know a used OEM axle will fit correctly. We know OEM axles last forever if undamaged. Prices on used axles are competitive. Aftermarket re-mans are a hit & miss game according to many, many reports.

Example: VW guys found out their OEM axles were hollow and made from very strong steel. The aftermarket "new" axles are solid, made from cheaper metal. This has resulted in vibration issues. Some VW owners are sending their cores to Raxles for rebuild service, which I've read costs considerably more than new/rebuilt aftermarket.

When I was in need of a driver side axle (due to something I did - not a normal failure), I got a new one. I forget exactly which one but from what I could figure when working in auto parts, they are all the same cardone parts no matter where you buy it. Anyway the new one seems like a decent product and I've had no problems with it yet but one thing I do not like about it is they machined the tulip coming out of the transaxle with a smooth taper which looks nice but it's really f***in hard to get out because you don't have a nice flat area to pry against like the stock shape. When I was pulling my differential out to replace, I actually had to keep the output shaft in because I could not get that new drive side cv shaft out!

Does this look correct to you?

It drives fine but perhaps this explains the slight rubbing sound when I make a tight right turn.

No, that does not look correct. Have you had it out recently? The snap ring (obviously) isn't fully seated...or it's missing.