CV Joint & Axle/Shaft Replacement

Could have asked the guys at Morad's, they disassemble this stuff all day long.

I think I will.

So, I sent payment and it's scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. Morad say it's a T55 (or at least that's what they use.) Should be on all four wheels very soon.

I asked this before not in hub write up do you need a puller to get axel out of trans?

Has anyone done this? I've see the wheel/hub bearing write-up, which is similar and is great. But I have read online that you can either remove the two strut to steering knuckle bolts or drop the ball joint to get the CV shaft out of the hub. My opinion is that it might be easier to do it with the strut bolts out as damaging the ball joint boot may be high. What are your opinions? Also, when installing the new CV shaft, how are you sure that the shaft is all the way into the transaxle. I found this video...
https://youtu.be/6xb7xil4PAw
I know its not a Riv, but is that pretty much all there is too it? What surprises or tips do you have?

Both ways will work, but I would not do it as in the video. Using his method, you need to be careful when you let the knuckle down to rest, so you don't damage the lower ball joint boot. Use a support or wood block under the rotor. And be careful hammering on the axle, not to damage the threads. They don't always tap out so easily. Loosen the center nut out the to end so you are hitting the nut and not the axle.

Thanks for that info and the heads up. But what about the installation of the shaft into the transaxle, how do you know for sure that its seated properly, will it click or pop? Is this also a good time to replace the seal, or if it ain't broke, leave it alone?

A few firm pushes on the axle and it should pop right in. If its not past the snap ring you will be able to pull it back out easily. This may be a good time to replace the seal as long as you have it apart anyway.

bigdave wrote:

A few firm pushes on the axle and it should pop right in. If its not past the snap ring you will be able to pull it back out easily. This may be a good time to replace the seal as long as you have it apart anyway.

Yeah Dave it's a great time to replace the seal, they are not that much $$ and sometimes when you pull the axle you mess it up anyway.

I'm replacing the TCC (what an absolute complete PITA) and am stuck on how to get the axle out of the side cover! Help!

Sorry, on a 98 SC Riv!

use a pry bar behind the axle next to the transmission and beet the hell out of it. its just held on by a ring but you may have to pull on it as well, i mean yank the yell out of it.. it will come. oh yeah make sure the axle nut is off and the axle is loose from the spindle.

they make a tool to pull it out. i believe autozone will loan it out.

I always just beat the hell out of it with a hammer or pry on it like curt said.

If you have a nice & heavy crow bar it will pop right out with very little effort. Weight is Might

Thanks for all the replies! Gonna finish this today, and put the new rack on as well...

I'm suspecting my passenger side CV shaft may be ready to go. There's some strange noises coming from that side, but it's not constant - yet. A slight howling at freeway speed, which to me sounded like tire noise, but yesterday I heard another sound at very low speed (5-10pmh). It's a creaking/chuffing sound (one/revolution) that I first suspected as brakes (have new pads) or rubbing tire (none that I can tell), so ruled those out. The hub is a fairly fresh Timken, and it's not making a growling sound like a bad bearing does.

Assuming it is one of the CV joints, I've been trying to decide if the shaft should be replaced as an entire unit, or if it makes sense to pull the shaft and replace only the joint that's bad (inner or outer). If possible, I'd like a new OEM part, as the old one lasted so well, but I'm not willing to pay more than a couple hundred per side for this repair, and I want to do the work myself.

Local option: Rockauto shows aftermarket reman shafts from Cardone & EMPI, complete with both joints, for ~$70 ea. I'm tempted, but you never know about the quality. I assume AutoZone or NAPA would offer similar options.

ZZP option: a "Stage I" axle shaft for $90. They claim it is the "perfect fix for cars with a broken axle or one shooting grease under your hood. They are an aftermarket axle that we have tested to be a reliable replacement axle for people upgrading to HD or replacing a worn unit." I'm a little more comfortable with this, knowing ZZP chose one they feel is good quality.

Car-Part: looking over the salvage yard online database, there are many "A" parts in the $30-60 range. With shipping, this seems to be the easiest way to get OEM quality for under $100.

Ed Morad: $45 shipped + tax (OH) for a "good" used shaft. I'm asking them what is considered "good", but whatever the case, this deal seems like the best way to go regarding price.

GM Parts Direct: shows the inner joint for $107, outer joint for $165. I assume I can reuse the shaft and pick up new boots locally. Does this seem like a worthwhile endeavor? Anyone rebuilt their axle before?

Interesting fact: ZZP claims the same right (passenger) axle is common to all '97-up 3800 cars. The part that's different on "HD" drivetrains is the left (driver) axle is special. GM Parts Direct seems to confirm this with a much higher price on the left inner CV joint, priced at $317. However, it appears the outer CV joint is the same for both sides.

Does anyone know if it's more common for the inner CV vs. the outer CV to fail? I can't see any grease leaking, nor a torn boot, so I think the failure is simply a result of 236k miles of 3800 SC torque.

if you have the time on your hands definitely just get the joint. That way you don't get the risk of a slightly bent shaft on a reman unit.

Otherwise consider getting a new shaft.

Albertj

Replacing just the bad CV joint with new will be between $150-$250 for OEM parts, depending on which joint failed. It involves some bench time, and there's the possibility that both joints could need replaced. I won't know until I pull the axle. That's a problem, because I need to order parts ahead of time. At this mileage, I'd prefer to replace both joints.

A "new" OEM shaft will cost quite a bit. Judging from GM Parts Direct prices, the dealer's price on OEM is between $500-600. Not going to happen. Neither Rockauto nor GM Parts Direct carries the factory right side axle assembly.

A remanufactured version from local parts store or Rockauto doesn't provide much confidence. As Erik from Morads Part put it, the remans "are not even worth the scrap weight I get out of them for throwing them in the dumpster." Based on the performance I saw from my original axle, I can believe the remans don't compare. For $45 shipped, Morad can send me a good used OEM assembly, simple swap, no bench work, and hopefully another 200k miles+. If it happens to be bent, I don't think it would be much trouble to return for exchange.

interesting. Apparently the right side is discontinued by GM. Still might be worth calling around to see if anyone has NOS.

I would also expect 'good used' to be better than 'reman'. So many of the reman shafts are garbage.
Monsterpartsonline showed pricing as $360 but discontinued. $330 for the other side (available). Not bad for OE parts.

i seen them on ZZP i think they would back them up ???

I am happy with a replacement new 1/2 shaft from Advance Auto - issue is, it's a GSP, made in China. GSP remanufactures axles in Roebuck, South Carolina. I am not happy that it was made in China but I must admit it runs true.

sounds like somone put the tire on and torued the shit out of the studs and streatched them making thenm weak moe then likely unrelated to the CV going bad. Torque spec should be around 100 or 105 Ft lbs. seems to be common for most GMs i beleive the owners manual calls for 100

Here's what I got for $45 from Morad Parts - ordered Thursday, delivered Saturday!



EDIT: my original CV joint/shaft wasn't bad. I swapped it out and still had a noise - turned out to be a failing hub/bearing. The above pictured axle was only installed 2 days, and is for sale. PM me if interested.

I thought the wheel bearing was out and bought one but its the CV axle.

The splined part that snaps into the transmission is like loose. When I turn the wheel I can see this part move about. The seal its blown and it is leaking some fluid.

My questions is simple. The OD of that splined part is smooth. Is it just that seal or is there a bearing that rides on also? If there is our bearing is shot. I would like to have all parts in front of me before starting the work.



As noted this is the end.

The car is still all together. With the wheel off when I rotate it some the big knuckle will torque itself and I can see it move- like it is not firmly held concentric:



I know the outer large diameter is for an oil seal. I know its splined and clips into another item. Im just not sure if there is a bearing involved that would keep this big knuckle concentric so it doesnt flop around or if its all on that oil seal?

Hopefully this makes sense.

Oh come on, nobody?

An oil seal by itself has no support features. Judging by that Tranny seal,it looks like it can be replaced with the tranny on the car.thats a plus. but there could be a bearing behind it? I'll look in my FSM. Have you allready removed and inspected the CV J?

...behind the extension case,there are 4 main components that can be serviced on the car.The outer seal,a great big seal for the extension case and behind that is a thrust bearing assembly and behind that a washer.Find out how difficult it is to remove that extension case after removing the CV.Might be a simple job.

I found this topic when looking for a solution to my problem. Currently I have tranny fluid leaking from the passenger side seal. It is suspected that I have a bad reman of a cv axle that does not seat properly and has caused this leak. See topic: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t9066p30-nightmare-transmission-rebuild#142342

I am going to try and replace the seal along with a used OEM axle. Was the job from this topic completed successfully? Robo, do you have experience replacing this seal. After reading this topic from a saturn forum, it seems rather simple: http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157297