FAQ: Engine/Transmission Motor Mounts

between $125 and $200 +
just do it yourself and save a bundle? they are not that hard.

Allow about 2 hours labor to remove and replace the rear.

Thanks guys... P.S.... I am not even a bona-fide Trainee! I own a hammer, a couple of screw drivers and some plyers!

I did find a guy in Livonia, MI who will Scan for FREE...and he has the appropriate program on his laptop! Anyone in the area needing a Scan let me know.

Rick - Our shop is next to a Trans Shop and he says my OBD Scan is much more crucial! (And I thought she was running pretty good... he picked up on it quick!)

Hard4unot2 wrote:

Rick - Our shop is next to a Trans Shop and he says my OBD Scan is much more crucial! (And I thought she was running pretty good... he picked up on it quick!)

If this Trans Shop does removals and Installations of transmissions (not just rebuilds) then he can replace the rear mount probably quicker than anyone else you might find, just because of experience R&R'ing transmissions day in and day out.
But I agree with him as far as getting your scans done and anything related to the proper running of the engine fixed first.
You can always plan and budget for the trans mount later.

How did you find a mount for $100.00 ????

Ok so I went to aamco today for diagnostics and they guy said my engine may be blown because the guy heard a noise that sounded like I had a cracked piston and the codes he saw were: P1670 QDModule 4 failure, P0171 fuel trim lean, P0300 random misfire, 37 LR wheel speed sensor, 75 pcm requested tcs disable... he said he needs to perform a couple hours more diagnosing first to determine wether or not I need a new engine or if its worth handling these codes and its 85 an hour. Experts, what do these codes mean?

The wheel speed sensor code and PCM request TCS diable will be fixed when you replace the LR hub. If the codes are correct you have a bad wheel hub speed sensor. Crawl under the car and look at the wiring, especially the connectors. If there is no apparent problem (loose wire at connector, broken wire) you need to replace or have replaced the hub. If you get a new one I recommend you get a Timken or SKF from RockAuto.Com - these cars chew up the economy hubs in a few weeks probably due to weight.

For the other codes, go to a dealer or independent mechanic that actually *works on* engines, not *swaps* engines. Put it to you this way. When your Delco alternator's bearing goes bad, it makes a noise like a bad main bearing. If you are in/near any major urban area it should not be that tough to find a mechanic who's more familiar with the 3800 engine.

Albertj

Nothing mentioned above indicates an engine failure, although I can't hear what he may be hearing.
Code P1640 = Quad Driver Module #4 Failure,
Do not have acess to the 1995 Factory Service Manual, but this indicates the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is detecting an improper voltage connected to QDM #4, which is located in the PCM.
I'm sorry but without some more technical data, i can't be more specific.
P0171 = Fuel trim Lean (self explanatory)
P0300 Random misfire (self explanatory)
Both of the above need further diagnosis to better define where exactly the problems lie.
37 Lr wheel speed sensor, could either be a bad wheel speed sensor or a bad electrical connection to the left rear wheel speed sensor.
That code (37) is incomplete.
75 PCM Request TCS Disable, is just what it says. The PCM is requesting the TCS (Traction control System) to disable. Possibly tied into the bad wheel speed sensor or wiring. Again without a complete code and the 1995 FSM data, I do not have any additional information.
Suffice it to say you have multiple issues, But the QD #4 and P0171 (Lean issue) and the P0300 will most possibly be why the car won't go past 40 mph w/o shaking terribly.
Need further troubleshooting with a reasonable explanation and diagnosis for each individual code.
You have a sick car, and i am unable to help you over the internet.
Maybe someone with the 1995 FSM can be of more help.
One suggestion I can make is don't spend money on replacing the wheel bearing with speed sensor until you figure out what the solution is to the other more major problems. My other recommendation is to take it to someone other than Aamco. They were able to read the codes for you, but I highly doubt they will be able to properly diagnose and fix your car. It's going to cost you some money either way.
Sorry.

What exactly does fuel trim lean mean?

My mechanic is going to replace the 1 4 coil on Saturday which should handle the random misfire code

RivieraRyan wrote:

What exactly does fuel trim lean mean?

Actually, it is probably worded a little differently... "Fuel trim lean" is misleading: a P0171 code means that the engine is running lean, and the fuel trim is therefore compensating towards rich.

Ok gave my mechanic the codes and did my best to explain them to him...he said I may have a bad oxygen sensor which is causing the fuel to run lean but if that was the case wouldn't that have been a code in and of itself? He said he will research the codes over the next few days and look at my car Sunday. What specifically should I tell him to look for? I want to be as detailed as possible with each code... thanks

Very rarely is an oxygen sensor bad. Hopefully it's a vacuum leak. My next best guess is your LIM gaskets, which could also be a vacuum leak.

Please add your car's year and whether it's N/A or S/C to your signature. I keep having to go hunt it down.

If you keep having to spoon feed this mechanic the explanation of various codes and what you think the problem might be, then it is time to find a more competent mechanic. I know you mentioned you can't afford another mechanic, I say you can't afford NOT to find another mechanic.

Well I found him on craigslist about a year ago when my ac compressor died and I couldn't even locate the part and the ones I would find were for non supercharged rivieras and of course I have the 95 sc one. He found one for me for 140 and he works on many different cars so we had to look up a diagram online of the ac compressor so he could see what it looked like. Needless to say he put in the new ac compressor the next day and my car has been running ever since and he only charged me 65. For the job so I feel like he is a very capable mechanic its just that he is not 100 % familiar w/ my engine series one by the way, and he dn have a complete garage to work out of or certain diagnostic tools but I believe if ican guide him in the right direction or tell him exactly what to look for he can fix it. I just don't have the money to pay a shop thousands of dollars to diagnose and fix my car especially when I know he can fix it for substantially cheaper he just needs to know what to fix and where to look. Also, I'm not selling my car because I love it.

Seems to me if the Mount was broke I'd hear it so I believe I just need the insert... make sense?

hijack here,but I figured AA would move my post if I put up a "new" trans mount thread.So,I replaced my rear trans mount about 800 miles ago cause I had mucho vibrations right under my foot and when the old one was pulled out I was right it had totally collapsed.My front mount is also dusted,and I assume my other driver side one is toast too as my car still vibrates when rolling over bumps etc. I have these two coming in next week via Gmpartsdirect.Question is do you guys think I could have torn or otherwise damaged the new rear mount I had installed 800+ miles ago with the engine shifting around on the other two lower mounts??Please say no!!!

under normal driving you should have no problems with the one mount after only 800miles.
Filling the front mount voids with 3m window weld will help prevent it from tearing up too.

(also, the good thing about posting in an old thread like this is there are lots of posts from different members so we all get reply emails. i have been too busy lately to check the form front page, but i still check emails )

Cool...good point about the whole posting in old threads.I forgot about email notification,that's a plus.

RivieraRyan wrote:

My mechanic replaced the wire connected to my 1-4 coil because it was split in half due to the radiator fan and the car ran better however it still makes a rough noise and shakes when just sitting. My mechanic said the shaking is because I need motor mounts. Also my ses light is still on and I noticed I wasn't getting as much pick up as I should when pressing down the gas pedal so he changes the fuel filter and and sprayed cleaner in the air throttle hose and then reset the battery and the ses light came right back on. What else could it be? When I shift from p to r my car bucks really hard sometimes so imm certain I need mounts. I believe I found some for 37 a piece on this one website. I will post the link later because I would like to kno if they are the right ones before I purchase them. I am due for an oil change which I will get sometime this week but what other explanations can there be? I love my car! I don't want it to die on me.

i have the same problem with mine i hope its an easy fix like yours...

madrivage wrote:

hijack here,but I figured AA would move my post if I put up a "new" trans mount thread.So,I replaced my rear trans mount about 800 miles ago cause I had mucho vibrations right under my foot and when the old one was pulled out I was right it had totally collapsed.My front mount is also dusted,and I assume my other driver side one is toast too as my car still vibrates when rolling over bumps etc. I have these two coming in next week via Gmpartsdirect.Question is do you guys think I could have torn or otherwise damaged the new rear mount I had installed 800+ miles ago with the engine shifting around on the other two lower mounts??Please say no!!!

yes - but since you know that, why not just crawl under and look? no use speculating.

Albertj

My 95 supercharged riviera needs 3 motor mounts replaced! Mechanics can't seem to find them anywhere(besides the delaership). Are there any cars who's mounts are interchangable with mines?? I NEED HELP! My car shakes and vibrates and when I shift gears my engine jumps! Please please please help! Thanks!

Rear mount can be found here for about $50:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1022016&parttype=8616

The others can be found at GMparts direct - you may need to email customer service to determine which ones you need. They are priced between $87-187 each. Best of luck.

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/catalog/frameset.cfm

Thank you so much! I am looking into this as we speak and hopefully they have some available.

My local Advance Auto had the insert for the rear trans mount by Anchor in stock - about $50. I haven't done anything with it yet but it seems like it's pretty tough getting the original insert out of the mount bracket on the rear mount.

I ordered these from RockAuto.com

ANCHOR 3065 (rear '97-98, insulator only)
ANCHOR 3127 (front '95-99)

They are the front and rear transmission mounts. Total cost with shipping: $ 80.91

The three mounts quoted to me from my local dealer were
22178776 NONSTK MOUNT ASM $147.99 (left)
22201115 NONSTK F-MOUNT $343.77 (rear)
22201116 NONSTK MOUNT ASM $313.18 (rear)
Total Amount $804.83

Screw that!!!

Good Luck with your project!

VegasScott