FAQ: Engine/Transmission Motor Mounts

My 95 supercharged riviera needs 3 motor mounts replaced! Mechanics can't seem to find them anywhere(besides the delaership). Are there any cars who's mounts are interchangable with mines?? I NEED HELP! My car shakes and vibrates and when I shift gears my engine jumps! Please please please help! Thanks!

Rear mount can be found here for about $50:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1022016&parttype=8616

The others can be found at GMparts direct - you may need to email customer service to determine which ones you need. They are priced between $87-187 each. Best of luck.

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/catalog/frameset.cfm

Thank you so much! I am looking into this as we speak and hopefully they have some available.

My local Advance Auto had the insert for the rear trans mount by Anchor in stock - about $50. I haven't done anything with it yet but it seems like it's pretty tough getting the original insert out of the mount bracket on the rear mount.

I ordered these from RockAuto.com

ANCHOR 3065 (rear '97-98, insulator only)
ANCHOR 3127 (front '95-99)

They are the front and rear transmission mounts. Total cost with shipping: $ 80.91

The three mounts quoted to me from my local dealer were
22178776 NONSTK MOUNT ASM $147.99 (left)
22201115 NONSTK F-MOUNT $343.77 (rear)
22201116 NONSTK MOUNT ASM $313.18 (rear)
Total Amount $804.83

Screw that!!!

Good Luck with your project!

VegasScott

Well at long last I have my mounts fixed on my 97 Riv and would like to pass this info on. This is for info only to try to help others with the same problem. The front trans mount is available from O Reileys approx $40.00. The rear trans mount rubber is available from Westar at approx $35.00. Now for the driver side engine mount. I fixed this problem by purchasing the mount for the Buick Park Avenue and changing out the insert by prizing open the the little tabs, removing the center and swapping it over. Cost approx $50.00 from O Reileys. I hope this helps.
Len Rapkins

Len, thanks for the report. I need to do my mounts soon, so this will definately help me out!

What year park ave did you pull the passenger side engine mount from?
That is the only one i still need to replace and i have yet to see it anywhere.

I purchased the PA mount from O Reileys and changed over the inserts. QED. If anyone needs more info feel free to call me 704 771 1953.
Len Rapkins

Okay, I just did my front and rear mounts this weekend with the help of a buddy on the rear mount.

The front trans mount is simple. It took me about 40 minutes, but the bulk of that time was cutting a piece of 2x4 by hand to use as a "mechanical persuasion tool." I had every intention of doing a great photo write up on this repair, but I got into a time crunch with an evening out on the town with my wife to celebrate our 13th wedding anniversary. So, unfortunately, you'll see that I don't have squat for pictures for the rear repair. Once I got to the rear mount, I had to leave my garage twice... Once to Lowes to get a 24" half inch socket extension. (Of course, they didn't have it, so I had to "erector set" 3 10" extensions. Once I got the steering rack bolts out, I had to run to Autozone to get a 55 torx head socket for the lower mount bolts. All in all, it was pretty smooth, and I made the date with the wife. Which is probably the most important thing if I want to be able to "play" in the garage with the boys...

I uploaded some pics to photobucket...

Rear Mount on the Left 3065. Front Mount on the Right 3127. (Both ordered from RockAuto, but shipped directly from Anchor)


Shot of the forward mount


Another shot of the forward mount


Jack stand under the trans bracket supporting the engine and trans


Using the floor jack, you can get the frame to the proper height of the trans bracket which will allow you to get the bolt holes to line up when you replace the mount with the new one.


Took this shot without looking! shoved my hand under and shot! It's a great shot if I may say so myself! Here you can see the jack stand supporting the trans bracket.


Here I'm removing the bolt that runs through the trans bracket and through the mount.


Unbolt the mount from the frame.


The old mount.


The old mount versus the new mount.


Another shot of the old mount. It seems there is less rubber cast into the original mounts versus the newer ones. Look at the side by side comparission picture above.


My mount required a little "mechanical persuasion" so I used a 2x4 and tapped it into place for my frame bolt to pass through.


This is the first shot of the job to replace the rear mount. You need a long extension and a universal to get the bolts off of the steering rack.


Sorry again for the lack of photos on the rear mount. I was in a hurry... See my original comments above.

This is a comparrison of the old worn out rear mount and the new one.


A couple of things for those of you that haven't done this yet... Make sure you have a long enough extension to reach those rack bolts, and make sure you have a 55 Torqx socket. I used some of the write up from here to help me out BECAUSE THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL IS USELESS. It's pretty straight forward for the rear, just take off the end links on the sway bar and you can rotate it out of the way to get the old mount out. The post I read talked about undoing subframe assembly bolts, and that is NOT needed. It will save you some time.

The car is better, but I have one mount left to check out, and that is the driver's side mount. The car still has a little vibration at idle, but at least the engine isn't jumping all over the place now when put into gear.

VegasScott

Nice! Thanks for the pics!

Oh yeah, the other thing that took about 20-25 minutes with the rear mount, was aligning the bolt hole in the mount with the bolt holes on the trans bracket. SUCKED! Fought me for a while... But I won!

VegasScott

What is the compatibility between 95-99 for the Trans mount that the power steer rack mounts to? I need to replace the metal part as well as the rubber bushing. Wondering what years I can get the part from, if there is any difference. Thanks!

Make 1

Not really practical, since I don't have the materials or tools to fabricate. That's why I asked about compatibility, not how easy is it to make one, or how can I replace it. Thanks for the relevant answer.

You can use one for a 95-98 riv, not 99. Park Ave also has the same ones. I'm not sure if the year span is the same on the PA though; but I'd think 95-98 would be a reasonably safe bet.

Cool, thanks a lot!

epic612 wrote:

Not really practical, since I don't have the materials or tools to fabricate. That's why I asked about compatibility, not how easy is it to make one, or how can I replace it. Thanks for the relevant answer.

Hockey pucks and a saw or some other cutting tool, thats all you need.

turtleman wrote:

You can use one for a 95-98 riv, not 99. Park Ave also has the same ones. I'm not sure if the year span is the same on the PA though; but I'd think 95-98 would be a reasonably safe bet.

97-05 for the park aves

Excellent write-up Scott, I am due for this repair and after seeing your write-up I might give it a shot. By the way, nice garage floor. Also, I can't believe how nice and clean the Riv in the Southwest are!

Thanks! I apologize for the lack of pics of the rear mount, but I was in hurry to finish as I had a deadline to meet. It's time consuming, but not that difficult.

As for cars in the SW, that's one of major reasons why I moved out here!

I'm very happy with my RIv. It's very comfortable, has decent power, and floats down the road like a caddy! The only thing I need to yet is figure out my transmission hose thats leaking. Then I'd be 100% satisfied with my car.

VegasScott

I'm finally getting my rear mount fixed tomorrow. I cant wait to drive with out that clunk sound ever time i go in reverse and shift from 1st to 2nd. I got a dealer mount for $211 and they will put it in for 40 bucks..I would normally do this myself but for $40 to have someone else do it, im not getting out of bed for that. I'll let you guys know how it drives when my wife brings it home from work

95rivy wrote:

I'm finally getting my rear mount fixed tomorrow. I cant wait to drive with out that clunk sound ever time i go in reverse and shift from 1st to 2nd. I got a dealer mount for $211 and they will put it in for 40 bucks..I would normally do this myself but for $40 to have someone else do it, im not getting out of bed for that. I'll let you guys know how it drives when my wife brings it home from work

it'll drive better but you really ought to double check the front tranny mount. I had my car back at the transmission shop that did the rebuild, I had to show the mech how to tell the mount was wack, he thought it was good. A dealer mech probably would not have this problem.

I mean you don't want to be in a wizzing contest with your friendly professional mechanic but nobody's perfec.t

Yea i will replace the front mount as well, but the rear mount was gone completely. The bolt was sitting on the bottom of the mount, was'nt pretty. Like i said before having that mount changed for $40 bucks was well worth it

95rivy wrote:

Yea i will replace the front mount as well, but the rear mount was gone completely. The bolt was sitting on the bottom of the mount, was'nt pretty. Like i said before having that mount changed for $40 bucks was well worth it

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huh? sorry man dont your comment ..you almost always have great things to say. Im i doing anything wrong with my mounts?