Steering knuckle ??

Okay, she's going back in the shop in a couple of weeks to have some stuff done
* A/C vacuum/recharge (see if I can get cold air from center vents)
* Alignment
* Think I'll put some new magnaflows with 3" piping from the y-split...chrome tips. Need to be cautious to make sure it's not TOO loud! Just some gurlge would be enough!
* Steering (here's the question)

Two things need a look at. First, I still have some suspension knock over certain type bumps from the front. Second, on sweeping left hand curves. I'll hear and feel a wobble wobble wobble sound/feel from the left front tire. And it's only at certain angles...just in that right spot. Turn the wheel more or less and it goes away.

I replaced the sway bar end links and bushings and the ball joint felt fine...so I suspect a steering knuckle?? Unsure if that might be it...

Thoughts before I take her in?

Oh... I'm kind of looking for a car to replace the Riv...a new toy. And possibly selling the Riv. But seriously, she costs $25/month for insurance and all I pay is gas...and damn!, she's a beautiful car...I could keep her till she falls apart!

The steering knuckle probably isn't bad. Not sure they can even go bad. The issue more likely is one 3 things, or a combination of them:

1) Hub/Bearing - can make different sounds from a growl to a creak while the wheel is rotating, often more noise when under load from a hard corner. Lift the car and tip the wheel/tire 12-6 o'clock for any play in the hub - even if there is no play it could still possibly be going bad, but that would be a giveaway.

2) Strut/Bearing - this is really what handles most of the steering duty, along with the lower ball joint. You can usually hear a pop, pop, kind of binding sound while turning slow, if a strut bearing is going bad. Sometimes you can see the spring and strut moving erratically through the fender gap from outside the car.

Other sources of front end noise are subframe(cradle) insulators and control arm bushing. The control arms are not to expensive, and not really that bad to replace. The cradle bushings are a job.

The knuckle dont have anything to do with it.It could be the inner tie rod or the outer tie rod.
A test,lift the car and grab the tire at the 3 & 9 position.jerk from side to side.if theres a clunking its the inner tie rod. grab the tire at the 12 & 6 position,repeat.if clunking its the ball joint.Outer tie rod is easy.pop it out of the knuckle and move the ball around.if it clicks and wobbles its bad.
The rear adjustment links can also go bad.My guess is that they are.You have a 96 and you live in MO,snow ,salt and what not.theyre bad. To test- take out the cotter pin and loosen the nut and give the rear adjustment link a big whack with a hammer. pop it out and grab the ball.if it clicks and indexes its bad.Movement at any of the ball joints should be either firm or a little easy to move by hand.If there is loosness and the ball clicks in its socket its time to replace.

like AA sed. remove the tire and grab the hub and pull and twist.shouldnt make and movement other than circular.And no noise.
control arm bushings are fairly obvious.If they look bad they are.cradle bushings are also obvious to see.

I do hear a noise and feel a bind on turns....like when I'm reversing, then straightening the wheel to go foward...hmmmm strut bearing... is that on the wheel hub, or up towards the strut tower mount???

I couldn't feel any play in the ball joint... but I didn't turn the wheel to that sweet spot either....

good points guys. I'll keep them in mind! Thanks!!!

Strut mount is up top, sandwiched between the strut and the tower. If you still have OE struts and more than 100k miles, it's probably time.

no they have less than 30K on them...

so that strut bearing in where? On the wheel hub?

It's up top, sandwiched between the strut and the tower.

When you replaced the struts, did you have new mount/bearings installed?