Write Up: Installing Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Tools:

10, 11, 13, 14, 17MM wrenches. I used combination wrenches only, but a set of sockets could help you.

Hammer to persuade stubborn bolts out

Medium sized flat blade screwdriver

Jack (optional)

Something to catch fluid

Materials:

New brake lines; I got the longer ones from ZZP. Get the longer ones because you will need them to do the F-Body brake mod and I'm not sure if the shorter ones would fit on the drivers side.

Brake Fluid

PB Blaster (optional)

How To:

Break your lug nuts loose, jack up the car, and remove the wheel.

I started on the drivers side because it is ever so slightly harder to do. It may also be beneficial to turn the wheel all the way to the left.

Stick your flat blade into the side of the bracket that holds the rubber line into the hard line and wiggle the bracket around until it pops off.



Should look like this when you have it off.



Remove the hard line from the soft line with a 14MM(?) wrench. Make sure that you have the catch pan underneath because fluid will come out.



Now you can remove the bracket holding the original line in place with a 10 or 11MM (I don't remember which).You won't be reusing it so you can just thread that bolt right back in without the bracket.



Lastly remove the bolt holding the line into the caliper. It is also 10 or 11MM (sorry, I really should have kept better track of it). More fluid will come out here.



I stopped taking pictures here because my hands were pretty dirty and it's even simpler from here.

Slide the bolt that goes into the caliper through the new brake line while using the supplied copper washers. It should go bolt head > washer > brake line > washer > caliper. Be careful, the old washers like to stick to the bolt and caliper. I'm sure it would be alright to reuse them but since you have new parts you might as well use them. Do not fully tighten the bolt yet.

Thread the other end of the line into the hard line exactly like the rubber line was. Once you get this nice and tight you can reinstall the clip you removed. The line may seem tight here but that is alright. I still had some slack in mine, and even more so when the car was lowered.

Tighten the caliper bolt once you have your line where you want it. Turn the wheel lock to lock to make sure nothing will interfere with it.

Bleed the brakes and tighten everything back up. There are plenty of tutorials on the internet about bleeding brakes so I won't add to the mess. The process is the same on the other side just without the brake line bracket on the strut. Overall I noticed that the brakes seemed to be a bit more progressive. I would give this mod a 6.5/10 because it isn't as noticeable as some other mods for the same price point. Realistically I would only do it if I were to put on the F-Body brakes (which I am) or if your lines were starting to rot (mine were).

Thanks for the write-up, Matt. Looks good. Are you still using OEM calipers?

For F-body calipers, information on SS lines can be found in the F-Body write-up thread:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t2310p75-write-up-f-body-brake-mod#34384

also:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t2310p90-write-up-f-body-brake-mod#34804

BE AWARE OF POTENTIAL DANGERS ASSOCIATED WITH SS LINES:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t2310p240-write-up-f-body-brake-mod#71143

and:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t2310p150-write-up-f-body-brake-mod#56406

Here's my current set-up, now going on 5 years of service:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t2310p315-write-up-f-body-brake-mod#121313

OEM Calipers for now. Waiting on new knuckles and other misc parts.

Wow...Matt-now that's a nice write-up.When u gonna do my car?..haha

That's cool. Make sure the lines don't rub against the tires at full lock.

Did you drain the old fluid out of the calipers? Now's a good time since you're in there. The stuff in the caliper is usually in the worst condition, since it gets exposed to more heat.

Stan: I'll help you whenever you want. Just get me to and from wherever you are.

AA: Calipers got a full flush. I didn't notice anything rubbing at full lock, but when I turn right at full lock they hit something. I think it's the passenger side line hitting the driveshaft. I need to do some more exploring before I draw any conclusions though. Left at full lock is fine.

I used a jumbo zip tie around a piece of split loom to attach the line to the strut. This lets the line slide freely when turning the wheel, and keeps it away from the tire.

I liked the feel of SS lines so much on the Riv, I bought a set of them for the GTO. They've been sitting on the bench for a couple weeks now, need to find some time for install.

AA wrote:

I used a jumbo zip tie around a piece of split loom to attach the line to the strut. This lets the line slide freely when turning the wheel, and keeps it away from the tire.

I liked the feel of SS lines so much on the Riv, I bought a set of them for the GTO. They've been sitting on the bench for a couple weeks now, need to find some time for install.

I was going to zip tie mine like you did yours, I just want to figure out where exactly is rubbing. And install them on the GTO already. It takes next to no time at all.

This is actually on my list this weekend or next.  I've had my lines in a box since last year just waiting on the items in the list ahead of the line to get done   

Question, how tight (and how to tell) does one tighten both ends of the line?  



I bought the Goodridge G Stop stainless lines: Goodridge 12240 SS Brake Line Kit Buick Riviera 95-96




Has anyone had any reliability issues with this brand similar to the previous ZZP lines?


Al

I can't comment on those lines, but I did figure out what was rubbing. AA was right about where the line was rubbing the tire. I took a few zip ties and tied it up to the strut. It's still a little close for comfort but it doesn't rub at all anymore. It's funny though, the noise sounded like it was coming from the passenger side.

Which ones on ZZP are you using exactly? Should still work with my DTS/Lucerne calipers. Thanks.

Haha yeah I missed that somehow. Not completely sure this is worth $100+ though :/

They're alright. Most people need them to do the bigger brake mods, but if you're just going to buy them as a standalone I would say hold off until Black Friday (especially if you don't autocross/track your car).

I'm doing big brakes but not F-Body.

If they don't come with lines, or the lines don't reach then you have to get the SS lines anyways.

Going with the DTS/Lucerne/et al JL9 option with the 12.7" rotors. I Powder coated a new pair matte black.



The interesting thing is Dorman quotes the '96 Aurora as having 13" Front Right hose and the Front Left as 18". I am sure the 13" figure is wrong! As both are listed for the Riviera as 18". Now a couple people have modded Bonneville GXP brakes on the Aurora and just used the Bonneville hoses which are 21.25" long. I may go that route if reports here are the stainless doesn't make much of a difference.

On my '96, the passenger side line was shorter than the drivers side. On '97+ they are both 18". The ZZP extended lines are 20.5" and fit pretty tight. If the Bonneville hoses are actually 21.25" I would use them, even better if you can get a set of SS lines meant for the Bonneville.

Interesting mine doesn't look that short on my '96, but admittedly I have not measured it!

That is what the Bonneville GXP frontsa re listed at; 21.25". I have got a couple quotes on them but not inexpensive. More than ZZP wants for the 20" ones for certain.