Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps

LoL 120dB loud?

Cant say Im a fan of corner loading...

Quote :

I've witnessed first hand a subwoofer sounding great in one car and not in another.

Simple explanation, a Fiero's cabin is a lot smaller than a Riviera's. More cabin space means you need more/bigger/better subs to compress a similar portion of that space.

120 dB isn't loud, but it is loud enough to enjoy the music, imo.

So, is this sub any good for $187? Seems pretty massive and there's several vids all over youtube of this pounding stuff senseless.
Power Acoustik Mofo-15

I'm sure it could provide massive amounts of bump being a 15" sub , but if you want anything for listening to music with quality in mind . i wouldn't think its a good candidate. Plus the surround on the woofer appears to be made of foam???...not too reassuring.

Power Acoustik has a long reputation of making inferior products. This is known, not debatable, and prices reflect this fact. They are a medium-low tier audio distributer. They do not actually have much to do with their product's design. It is just sourced and a brand name slapped on. Although this specific product could be different from past ones, naming it "Mofo" does not create any feeling of serious or desire to raise the bar - from my point of view.

If PA was actually trying to create a competent product, they would invest some time and $ into R&D, engineering & design, and product placement - or pay someone else to do it. Either way, the cost of that would be passed on to the consumer as an increase in price. Sure this thing could get loud. Lots of cheap subs can do that. Can it accurately reproduce music? Maybe if installed correctly. Maybe not. Do you want to take that chance?

On the other hand, these subs are getting a lot of solid reviews from online users - all saying they are super loud - but since they are fairly new and haven't been tested by professionals, it's too soon to say.

The installation and box design is perhaps more important than the sub itself in most cases. You can tune an inexpensive sub to sound good in most cases. What you pay for in a good sub is efficiency, low distortion, and the ability to sound decent using a smaller enclosure. Also you have to pay for new technology that helps performance, and cosmetic improvements to help durability (in addition to a rubber surround, a magnet boot would be nice). You also get more consistent QC with a well-known supplier vs. a company known only as a budget brand. Not saying it's all about the price, but in the audio industry (home or car), it's generally smart to avoid the very bottom end.

That things a TURD.

www.ficaraudio.com

Buy an SSD. It will get PLENTY loud and sound good doing it.

This is also a very nice sub:
http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=SD12

Bob Reimer puts out a good product. Im sure it wont disappoint!

...well I concede. I'll buy an Infinity Basslink at some point. I question the capability of it to produce tremendous bass (obviously not enough to boom at other cars near me) but it's like $160ish on Amazon for a new one so I guess it's worth a try. I'd still like to have loud ass subs because unlike 98.9% of people who play rap with their boom boom I'd play techno. Really really loud. Like a damn rave on wheels lol.

So much for that idea. Maybe some day though.

Ryan from Ohio wrote:

LoL 120dB loud?

Cant say Im a fan of corner loading...

clear 120db out of a $30 10" sub is loud

If I want loud, I'll spend some money and get a couple of these

hifonics goliath 1600watt rms 15" sub


and power them by this

The Goliath isnt to bad, but its not that good either.

It all boils down to what you can afford and what type of system you want within your budget.

Obviously if youre talking $200 and less you wont get much...

Ryan from Ohio wrote:

The Goliath isnt to bad, but its not that good either.

It all boils down to what you can afford and what type of system you want within your budget.

Obviously if youre talking $200 and less you wont get much...

Yeah, I agree, I was just saying for pure power not worrying about sound quality, 2400watts rms is pretty nice, lol. Especially for the money. For sound quality I'd probably go with JL subs and either boston pro or MB Quart 6.5" components.

lol, lots to learn...

Ryan from Ohio wrote:

lol, lots to learn...

Lots to learn? MB Quart and Boston Pro are Audiophile quality. What would you suggest then all high and mighty?

Audiophile?

What about their lowest end stuff? MB Quarts not what it used to be, not even close. Still decent gear, but not all that.

You want some good comps? Try some Focal, Seas, Morel, Dyna Audio, Rainbow...

I dont tout the word "Audiophile" much. Whenver you think you know what or who is one, you find out theres a bigger nutjob out there... lol

Audiophile in car audio would be better described as someone interested in sound quality and not volume (At least I'd say so, most people into car audio just want it to be loud as shit so they can blow their ears out with the highest SPL levels).

Imo, a true audiophile (car or home) should be interested in SQ and SPL. You need dynamic range for realism, which requires the ability to play loud at times.

Those people who just want to be loud, they're not interested in accurate music reproduction, they're interested in being noticed. Some folks actually think their low quality music system sounds good; those people need to attend more live shows.

Ryan from Ohio wrote:

Audiophile?

What about their lowest end stuff? MB Quarts not what it used to be, not even close. Still decent gear, but not all that.

You want some good comps? Try some Focal, Seas, Morel, Dyna Audio, Rainbow...

I dont tout the word "Audiophile" much. Whenver you think you know what or who is one, you find out theres a bigger nutjob out there... lol

From what I've seen MB Quart and Boston Pro are still two of the most used components for audiophiles.

I don't compare the lowest end from companies when talking high quality. The high end MB Quart and Boston Pro are some of the most used audiophile speakers, there's a reason.

I agree that the biggest audiophile is always changing, but I consider audiophile to be someone who is never happy with how great their stereos sound, they need to have the best imaging possible, and the best sounding components at that particular time. Something new comes out that's better, they need it.

For what its worth. Most people who get into very high-end speakers usually run "home" drivers. They buy the raw drivers rather than buying home speakers and tearing them apart. I am using scanspeak illuminator (midbass and tweeter)and b&w (sub) myself. I have seen more scanspeak, seas, and morel on the competition circuit than anything else.

I've got a 15 inch L7 Kicker Crammed in my trunk running off of a 2000 W PowerBass Amp, Im thinking about getting two 12 inch L7's or two 13 inch w7's

Rather than replacing the 6x9's in the rear, how do you think it would sound if I had 2 - 8's enclosed under the spot that the 6x9's are mounted and port them up through the holes?

I know you aren't supposed to put ports no top of boxes, and also it would be some pretty long ports, but I have my amps there right now, and I could make a shelf that goes over my amps that I could put the 8's on top of.

Another option would be porting it beside the rear seats some how, but I don't feel like cutting into the interior to make that happen. If I knew it would turn out good, I would port each sub through each side of the rear seat backing. I would cut the foam out of the seat about 3 inches in diameter. Then I would punch some holes in the leather in a uniform pattern to better let the sound through.

Kinda like the headrests on an 84 or 85 fiero.


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There is nothing wrong with using ports on the top of the enclosure. Also don't worry about removing foam and perforating the leather, if you go that route. The bass will have no problem going through the seat. The holes in the fiero seats are for higher frequencies not bass. There are also many woofer options that require no enclosure at all. Just mount the woofer in the rear deck and use the trunk itself as the enclosure. Just make sure the sub will be suited for this type of use.

Okay, also, I remember seeing someone whom turned the rear seat into one in which the back folded down (doesn't make sense why ours doesn't). How much labor is involved in doing that, and about how much would it cost me for the parts needed. I know that the bass makes it through the seat, but right now I have a 10 in there, and it's a lot louder standing behind the car with the trunk open than sitting in the car with the trunk closed.

Much of the difference in the bass response having the trunk open or closed results from wave cancellation, caused by multiple waves meeting at certain points in the cabin. You will notice the bass gets louder and softer depending on the trunk, windows, even moonroof being open.

Try turning your subs around, firing into the trunk. This changes everything, and will probably result in louder bass up front. If that's not an option, you could try moving the sub around to different areas of the trunk space.

Right now I have the sub at the very back ofthe trunk facing the front of the car. I know that typically in a trunk or hatch you want the sub facing the back so that the sound waves reflect off the back and travel back towards the front.

My two amps are just mounted with velcro, because I didn't want to drill holes into the car, so I could move them, I just don't know where to, lol. Right now they're out of the way, and if I need to put something in the trunk I just move the sub to one of the sides and I have loads of space.

I guess I'll expiriment and just put the sub where the amps are and see what it sounds like. I'll be getting the 2-8" subs in a week or 2. They aren't anything special, just MA Audio, but I'll be using them for rear fill and can't afford anything too expensive. I'm getting them for less than I could get a descent set of 6x9's and I think they'll work better as fills.

I have the 5.25"/1" components in the doors set at like 200Hz minimum with the amp's filter, and will probably use a LPF for the 8's, but keep it pretty high so that the frequency of the 5.25's and 8's cross.

Then the 10 will just be for low crisp bass.

Eww, subs do a nasty job when they're turned up to produce mids. Trust me, I've toyed with my Energy home sub and when set to 150 hz crossover with my bookshelf speakers...YUCK. Completely localizable and the bass it produces is nasty. Just what I experienced with a 12" home sub. Use a mid to produce mids, not a sub. They just don't do a good job at it.