Write-Up: AC Compressor & Clutch Replacement

My compressor on my car is leaking oil and I need to replace it. Does anyone know what the difference is between the AC Delco 15-21697A and the AC Delco 15-21697? 15-21697 is about $8 more expensive on Rockauto.com.

98riv wrote:

My compressor on my car is leaking oil and I need to replace it.  Does anyone know what the difference is between the AC Delco 15-21697A and the AC Delco 15-21697?  15-21697 is about $8 more expensive on Rockauto.com.

See https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/asin/B0016IXN72

Is it worth the extra $30 or so on Amazon to get the oem over the profesional version?

Should I also replace any other components or orings while I have it apart? I'll also order a new drier and orifice tube.

98riv wrote:

Is it worth the extra $30 or so on Amazon to get the oem over the profesional version?  

Should I also replace any other components or orings while I have it apart?  I'll also order a new drier and orifice tube.

I do not know how the OEM and Pro versions compare in this case; I do know that the Delco OEM tends to be better than the Professional version across the product lines.

You may want to flush the system if the old compressor fragged when it failed. You must get a new dryer and orifice valve, both are usually done in by compressor failure, or worn out when compressor wears out. Replacement orings should come with the parts you are R&Ring, and you definitely should use them if only because in applications having thermal cycling it usually does not take long at all for orings of whatever composition to take on a Set.

I think this was broached (what to replace) earlier in this thread. And I think there i posted that you should/need to get the Variable orifice valve.

Hopefully I caught it in time as the air conditioning was working before I saw the oil puddle and no weird noises coming from it either. I am planning on getting the variable orifice valve. Is there any reason to change the valve core or o rings for the condensor while it is apart or is it a case of if it ain't broke don't fix it?

98riv wrote:

Hopefully I caught it in time as the air conditioning was working before I saw the oil puddle and no weird noises coming from it either.  I am planning on getting the variable orifice valve.  Is there any reason to change the valve core or o rings for the condensor while it is apart or is it a case of if it ain't broke don't fix it?

When you depressurize an AC system, expect to replace o-rings in order to prevent stupid leaks.

Valve core -- you don't want to leave dirt or compressor fragments in the system. Do you really want to agonize over an inexpensive part which, if it is dirty beneath, will ruin the rest of your install?

Are you sure the leak is from the compressor? I had mine dripping and it ended up being the high pressure line in front of the compressor had cracked.

Also, if you (or anyone else) ends up needing a new evaporator core i have a brand new one that i never installed (since i found my leak elsewhere).

Mr.Riviera wrote:

Are you sure the leak is from the compressor? I had mine dripping and it ended up being the high pressure line in front of the compressor had cracked.

Also, if you (or anyone else) ends up needing a new evaporator core i have a brand new one that i never installed (since i found my leak elsewhere).

That's a good point about the line could be leaking. I just took a look and the lines seem to be fine and somewhat clean with no oil residue. It hasn't leaked any oil this week, but then again I haven't driven it much this week either. The air does still blow cold so hopefully it was caught in time before filling the system up with debris.

So I have been having a knocking noise from my compressor/clutch. Only happens at idle/decel low rpms for some reason. If I give it gas at all the noise stops. Been doing it for about 2 years now and the A/C has always worked well.
...until this week. Checked it out with a manifold gauge and it shows 30psi low side and 110psi high side (80outside temp). So looks like the compressor isn't doing it's job. Oddly enough the noise is quieter than before too.
So a new clutch assembly is $75 and a new compressor with clutch is $170. Not a huge difference but the labor for the two jobs is vastly different.
I pulled the belt and the pulley has no wobble to it and when turning the clutch and pulley the compressor turns easily and makes no noise.
My theory is the magnet has let go (maybe always has been and that's what the noise was?), but I still get a click when the ac kicks in.
Any thoughts?

Ended up adding some R134a to my system until the low side was at 40, high side came up to around 180 which is closer to where it should be. Blowing cold again. False alarm, must just have a small leak somewhere.
Now if i could just figure out which blender door controls driver side air temp..

Mr.Riviera wrote:

Ended up adding some R134a to my system until the low side was at 40, high side came up to around 180 which is closer to where it should be. Blowing cold again. False alarm, must just have a small leak somewhere.
Now if i could just figure out which blender door controls driver side air temp..

My understanding is old AC hoses "weep," you can refill every so often,or replace them.  I've had my system recharged twice since I bought the car in 2000, however past 6 years or so I found that topping it off about every 2 years) is fine.  I use a consumer-grade can of refrigerant (NO goop/sealer/etc) and a consumer-grade valve with a gauge.  Because the ports are differently sized, the contraption only fits the port it's supposed to go on, on the Riv.

PS - don't overfill it. More is not better.

Nasty. Looks like I'm going to be replacing a lot of AC components. Compressor, Condenser,  


Anyone have experience replacing the Thermostatic Expansion Valve?

http://www.4s.com/media/4920191/-AB352-Why-Clean-the-Expansion-Valve-When-Replacing-a-Compressor.pdf

or does this implement serve the purpose of the expansion valve in my Riv?



Finally, Rock Auto is offering a "kit" to replace the components of the AC system ... is this the complete rebuild kit or will there be more to purchase? (aside from coolant)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5244792&cc=1022050&jsn=431&jsn=431&jsn=431

Actually, the kit is the stuff you *really* have to replace; the only difference is (1) I'd use the variable rather than the fixed orifice valve (2) Id' inspect hoses and replace as needed (3) I's consider getting the O-ring kit (less than $10) and installing that since as I posted (years ago) the rings in place will have taken a set and can leak when you depressurize/pressurized the system.

that kit has a set of O rings .. you have a preference for another set?

The Roadmaster wrote:

that kit has a set of O rings .. you have a preference for another set?

No.  I clicked on the link and the pictures showed the compressor, receiver dryer, and orifice valve.  I did not read the descriptions.

You would need the rings at the other connections not just the compressor etc.  So that would be the condensor and evap lines (at the firewall, anyway).  

If the kit comes with all those rings, great; if not, they are not tough to get.

Hope you don't need an evaporator.

Albertj

with all of that shaved metal I don't think it's prudent to reinstall a contaminated component.



I am doing these repairs ( SC idler pulleys too) because I intend to sell the car. No half assed measures for a quick dump sale ... it's all original (OEM replacements) and low mileage so I am looking to get a decent price for it.

I read something on cross contaminating the new refrigerant with old ... are you familiar with this?

http://www.4s.com/media/4913546/-AB317-Flushing-to-Avoid-Retrofit-Cross-Contamination.pdf

Thermostatic Expansion Valves are a new(er) technology. Rivs don't have them.
Compressor, Orifice, and flush the lines out. NAPA sells a flush "kit". I've used it twice. All it is , is a chemical you pour into one end of the line, and blow out the other with compressed air.

The Roadmaster wrote:

I read something on cross contaminating the new refrigerant with old ... are you familiar with this?

http://www.4s.com/media/4913546/-AB317-Flushing-to-Avoid-Retrofit-Cross-Contamination.pdf

I did not read your link, but (1) I am not aware that the Gen 8 Rivieras ever used R-12 systems. Retrofit cross-contam is when the old refrigerant (R-12) is inadvertently mixed with the new (R-134a). It's a bad scene and all you have to do to prevent it, is a flush.

For the Gen 8 Riviera a flush of the HVAC lines buys you some certainty that little pieces of the orifice valve (the mesh can disintegrate over time) and other dirt and moisture are all removed from the system. The system does not hold all that much volume so a flush does not take all that long.

Flushing the lines is NOT the same as flushing the condensor. Those you just replace because the refrigerant holes are too small, small enough that you could drill a hole same size sideways through a nickel and it would not surface in the embossing. Condensor, you just replace if you think any fragments are in it. IF your compressor failed, chances are there is debris in the condensor. If not, and the orifice valve is clean/in one piece (compare new and old), and no debris came out of receiver-drier, there should be no problems with the condensor if it is not itself leaking or compromised. Flush the lines anyway, but just disconnect the condensor first and blow it out with clean filtered compressed air. This will help: http://www.autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=20&threadid=9172.

Abaddon wrote:

Thermostatic Expansion Valves are a new(er) technology. Rivs don't have them.
Compressor, Orifice, and flush the lines out. NAPA sells a flush "kit". I've used it twice. All it is , is a chemical you pour into one end of the line, and blow out the other with compressed air.

Please take a moment to look at my first pic ... that compressor is covered with metal "filings".

What are the chances of these filings being inside of the compressor and moving through the system?

The Roadmaster wrote:

Please take a moment to look at my first pic ... that compressor is covered with metal "filings".

What are the chances of these filings being inside of the compressor and moving through the system?

Omg no, lol. That's just the Compressor Clutch taking a shit. That's what happens when it wears out. You end up with metal everywhere. Its physically impossible for those shavings to make it into the lines.
The only way the lines get shavings in them is when the piston assembly (internal) fails horribly, much like a normal engine. You get metal everywhere inside.

Are you saying it could just be a matter of replacing the clutch??

The Roadmaster wrote:

Are you saying it could just be a matter of replacing the clutch??

Could be, but to remove the clutch requires a certain type of puller.

My clutch is not engaging, but no there is plenty of coolant in the system and no codes are being thrown. Any ideas?

Jack the R wrote:

My clutch is not engaging, but no there is plenty of coolant in the system and no codes are being thrown.  Any ideas?

Kindly tell me how you determined the amount of the coolant in the system?

And did you use a test light to see if your car is trying to switch the compressor clutch but the clutch isn't responding?