Write-Up: AC Compressor & Clutch Replacement

Guys, the big one is the PCM )

The PCM is only held on by those side clips? It looks like, once the PCM is removed, the mount is still blocking HVAC module 2. Did you really pull all this stuff to change 2? It does look like it has to come out

Sorry, I don't remember exactly how I did the passenger side. All I can say is that after I dealt with the driver side, everything else seemed so easy )

Maybe you did the air mix door and didn't touch the inlet door at all. It's the hardest one to get to.

I did all of them.

A small finger ratchet and reversible gear ratchet make this job easier.

Finally got back to this job. The PCM is removed by opening two latches at the bottom and one on each side. No need to unplug anything, just rotate the PCM over and set it on it's top. Then remove one screw at the bottom of the PCM mounting bracket, and two at the top, and push the bracket aside. No need to unclip the harness that's attached to the PCM mounting bracket. The #2 air inlet door actuator is then accessible, and you can watch it cycle by pressing the recirc button in the climate control center.

Mine is working, so all 4 actuators are good to go!

I ordered the service kit from Autozone mentioned a couple pages back (Link) and am looking forward to crushing this "no a/c" problem!

Rickw wrote:

Vacuum pumps are used to evacuate the system as Larry has said.
But the function is more than that. The vacuum pump is used to pull a vacuum (as it's name would imply)
So, after it sucks all the remaining freon and more importantly any moisture out of the system,

Autozone has their shipping game at 110% and got the tools to me in one day. I've gone through the instructions for the vacuum pump and it is not for evacuating the system at all. It just pulls a vacuum to test the system. So I've either got to take the car to an AC place and see if they will just pull the refrigerant out, or it will have to mysteriously evacuate on it's own, which it is has been slowly doing for years as all cars eventually do. But the packaging on the pump and the instructions have informed me that it is illegal for anyone but a trained and certified technician to open up a cooling system. Of course there is some danger of getting frostbite from the refrigerant, so it's nice of the nanny state to be concerned for my safety. Maybe the government will hold my hand for all the other dangerous things that can happen while working on a car, and take away the right to repair altogether. That's a good idea. I know they can't be serious about the refrigerant getting out and damaging the atmosphere when most old cars have leaky AC systems, and the alternative to fixing them is a cheap top-up a couple times a summer.

Well that OEM Tools kit has turned out to be a big rip off all the way around. The fittings on the low and high side hoses are wrong, so they are trash. The CCP comrade on hose duty got the right fitting onto the refrigerant hose at least. It will fit any of the manifold locations, and is visibly different than the other two fittings.

Also, I've now noticed there is a vent temperature gauge shown in the product picture, which I didn't get, and a brass valve, which I assume is for the refrigerant can, also not included.

I was just recently able to pull my entire system apart. I replaced orifice tube, accumulator, Orings. I flushed the entire system from evaporator to condenser because my original compressor was on there for years and had finally seized up on me. On the original compressor there is a nice filter that is included in the discharge(suction) side of the compressor. It was such a great idea that I carried it over too my new compressor and it fit perfectly in place. That will prevent any further contaminants from reaching your precious compressor! After pulling a vacuum and pressurizing the system down to the microns! I found no leaks. After a full charge of 2lbs of 134a I found that the rivi has the coldest AC on earth! I'm in Texas and the weather has no chance against a system that blows 50 degrees straight from the vents. What did I use to bleed the system? I will unproudly say that I released the kracken(Freon) into the environment because I had 0 options at the point of no return.. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask as I have been through the entire system myself!

I do have some questions!

9ty7rivi wrote:

... I replaced orifice tube,...

How did you pull the old one out? I couldn't.

Quote :

I flushed the entire system from evaporator to condenser

How? Can I flush the system using basic tools or some special tools/equipment/fluids required?

Quote :

because my original compressor ... finally seized up on me.

How did it happen, was it with the engine running? What happened to the clutch and belts?

Is there any reason why this AC Delco 1550122 variable fixture orifice tube won't work with this UAC kit - Link?

Is there anything else needed to completely redo the system?

Jack the R wrote:

Is there any reason why this AC Delco 1550122 variable fixture orifice tube won't work with this UAC kit - Link?

To answer the above question, I just got my Riv back from the mechanic and they said the AC Delco variable fixture orifice tube would not fit in the UAC compressor. Based on earlier posts in this thread, that doesn't sound right, but there it is. My AC works again but it seems awfully loud from outside the vehicle, and doesn't seem like it blows as cold as it should. Maybe the UAC compressor isn't that great?

Jack the R wrote:

Jack the R wrote:

Is there any reason why this AC Delco 1550122 variable fixture orifice tube won't work with this UAC kit - Link?

To answer the above question, I just got my Riv back from the mechanic and they said the AC Delco variable fixture orifice tube would not fit in the UAC compressor.  Based on earlier posts in this thread, that doesn't sound right, but there it is.  My AC works again but it seems awfully loud from outside the vehicle, and doesn't seem like it blows as cold as it should.  Maybe the UAC compressor isn't that great?

UAC sells a variable orifice tube for their compressor, it is #EX7000C. There also is an orifice repair fitting, #FT 0820KTC.

I'll keep that in mind for the next time I replace the compressor. Are the variable orifice tubes all longer? The one in the old compressor was short like the UAC's fixed orifice tube. Appeared to be halfway clogged with flourescent dye as well.

This UAC compressor is surprisingly loud.

Jack the R wrote:

This UAC compressor is surprisingly loud.  

there is that...

You think it's normal for UAC?

I replaced my A/C compressor about 6 months ago because the clutch was making a ringing noise, and the pressures were low.  It also leaked out over a 6 month period.  Replacing the compressor seems to have fixed all 3 problems.  A/C blows very cold and the compressor is quiet.  I used the Denso,

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=871032&cc=1303322&pt=6628&jsn=421&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86%2BAYIhylPKrF7bIqHI9hy8k1mIEp3Nd%2FgeeMQLPXHmP96Nfn27zWkm4cTIji6ExtPghKkIUFe2QI4nSBL767iy%2BP0SD%2FPph9PkgUvHm9%2Bvxl%2B7X75q%2FPPodhYMPevVD44U%2BESfz0V2yW6h%2Bc%2F9e7AYZIOdauIWwcklbi7N0phOH43I%2BqeiCHn%2FFUm0ZHKMcTfkBj7wmIjpFVjCndEs5WiODpKvgdSgFXUn64kUoCkIYeh9b0XKJusIxBB7Sg5PNNV1RxEm97TyDGCsgOWemBhLLMp2tsj6uvSrkfaS

TBH I don't feel like mine blows cold enough either, and the entire system is brand new UAC. It had the heart symbol on Rock Auto but maybe that means everyone was taking the cheapest option instead of the bestest option.

It's a lot better than nothing but I don't feel like it's doing a Riviera level job.

Jack the R wrote:

TBH I don't feel like mine blows cold enough either, and the entire system is brand new UAC.  It had the heart symbol on Rock Auto but maybe that means everyone was taking the cheapest option instead of the bestest option.  

It's a lot better than nothing but I don't feel like it's doing a Riviera level job.  

UACs are sold on Amazon, and there they have mixed reviews.

I don't remember - did you replace the receiver-dryer? Are the blend door actuators working right?

Also, in the instructions did it remind you to set the compressor with the front seal facing down for ~3 minutes? If not then your lack of chill may be that some of the original refrigerant charge leaked out until the oil got distributed around the system. Maybe you need another can of frigerant with a pressure gauge?

I had a garage do this one. I bought the full kit and had everything replaced. I haven't noticed a problem with the blend doors.

I'm starting to wonder if the PAG oil was left out. Is there any way to check?

Jack the R wrote:

I'm starting to wonder if the PAG oil was left out.  Is there any way to check?  

...not that I know of, short of evacuating the system entirely and refilling.

That's what I thought.

LARRY70GS wrote:

I replaced my A/C compressor about 6 months ago because the clutch was making a ringing noise, and the pressures were low.  It also leaked out over a 6 month period.  Replacing the compressor seems to have fixed all 3 problems.  A/C blows very cold and the compressor is quiet.  I used the Denso,

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=871032&cc=1303322&pt=6628&jsn=421&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86%2BAYIhylPKrF7bIqHI9hy8k1mIEp3Nd%2FgeeMQLPXHmP96Nfn27zWkm4cTIji6ExtPghKkIUFe2QI4nSBL767iy%2BP0SD%2FPph9PkgUvHm9%2Bvxl%2B7X75q%2FPPodhYMPevVD44U%2BESfz0V2yW6h%2Bc%2F9e7AYZIOdauIWwcklbi7N0phOH43I%2BqeiCHn%2FFUm0ZHKMcTfkBj7wmIjpFVjCndEs5WiODpKvgdSgFXUn64kUoCkIYeh9b0XKJusIxBB7Sg5PNNV1RxEm97TyDGCsgOWemBhLLMp2tsj6uvSrkfaS

I'm strongly considering picking this Denso up and having the UAC replaced.  I'm afraid the UAC's bearings aren't getting oiled and it's going to seize, shred the belt and leave me stranded.  As well as fill the rest of the system with metal, which it could already be doing for all I know.


edit - The UAC is supposed to be pre-filled with oil though - perhaps it wasn't from the factory?