My L67 swap from LesabreT.com

Lol Robo said it first. I have a feeling the lifters will do the trick, but we'll have to wait until Spring .

I ordered the lifters last Wednesday around 10:00 that night, and they were at my door the morning after at around 11:00 AM! Holy fast shipping! They came from JEGS. I decided I'm not installing these until Spring, though. Next update? Spring of course .

.. are you sure? I mean.. you could just fire those suckers in there...

Haha I could, sure...

I just wish I knew ahead of time when exactly I'd have the time to do it. I might be able to do it in one day but then it would be too cold to enjoy driving it .

It's going to be decent next week...Maybe I can fit in the job then.......

Eh no time for the lifters this year. It's going to be getting way too cold...but...Good news!

So I came across my manuals from when I did the swap last year (hard to believe it's been a year since completion) and i decided to get to the bottom of my oil pressure gauge problem once and for all.

I've been talking back and forth with Dave (From LesabreT.com) for the past day, and between us we figured it out. When I installed the engine I installed my original pressure sender because I was working with similar wiring (so I thought) and i figured using the same sender would make it easier. No.

What we've come to find out is that the L67's sender harness uses a 4-pin connector, and i was using a 3-pin sender. The sender itself wasn't getting grounded, therefore the oil pressure gauge was seeing infinite resistance, thus pegging the gauge all the way to full pressure.

As per Dave's suggestion, I grounded the signal wire that goes to the gauge, and the gauge dropped back to zero. So after i figured that out, I found out which wire was the missing 4th pin. Seems it's a wire I never connected to anything, it was just hanging there under the dash. DOH!

Anyway, I have a 4-pin sender on the way. Once it arrives I'm going to figure out where to ground the sensor's ground wire and all should be in business.

Z-type wrote:

Yep! I know the Bonneville's have a bit more wiring to get through than the Lesabre's, but there would not be a lot that's too dissimilar between the two. It really all depends on your donor car. Mechcanically speaking, the only difference would be getting the correct ABS axles for the Bonneville.

Best bet is to get a '92-'95 SSEi and swap the subframe and engine with the suspension all as one unit. It will ALL bolt right in.

How would i go about hooking up the whirring harness would it be plug and play or not or could i supercharge my Ln3.

Short answer, it's not plug and play. There's a lot that needs modified so it can work properly. It's a very involved topic dealing with the LN3/L27/L36, so I'm going to point you to this link:

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/performance/topic1687.html

Hope that helps .

Z-type wrote:

Short answer, it's not plug and play. There's a lot that needs modified so it can work properly. It's a very involved topic dealing with the LN3/L27/L36, so I'm going to point you to this link:

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/performance/topic1687.html

Hope that helps .

Ok I already started the swap and it's in progress So now i want to know if i can put an M90 on the GEN I L67

Z-type wrote:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t4338-faq-m90-blower-in-place-of-m62?highlight=m90+swap

that sucks would a centrifugal s/c work on a series 1

Probably no room for it realistically. I don't mind helping you out and giving advice, but I suggest starting a new thread of your own so we don't get threads crossed and information confused!

Z-type wrote:

Probably no room for it realistically. I don't mind helping you out and giving advice, but I suggest starting a new thread of your own so we don't get threads crossed and information confused!

ok i'll get started on a new thread when i really get into the swap!

Alright, finally got to work on this thing. Oil pressure gauge is working now!

Luckily, the pressure sender on the Series I L67 is within easy reach. Right above the axle.


Old 3-pin on the left, new 4-pin on the right.


Easy to unscrew...just a large crescent wrench.


These are two of the mystery wires I had 'leftover' from the swap last year. The black one is the ground wire I was missing for the oil pressure this entire time. Duh. The blue one goes to the alternator, but serves no function on this car.


Sweet! I'm so happy this works. It's just one of those vital pieces of information that I like to have.


A few warm days next week coming up in the forecast, so I might go one last jaunt with the car. After that, Winter storage, and in the Spring, lifter installation!

Small update, since Winter appears to be making its retreat!

I pulled the fuel injectors today to be sent out to Mr. Injector to be rebuilt/flow matched. Cheaper than buying new injectors and the results from other people have been stunning!

I'm sending them out tomorrow, so that means I should have them for next week when I'm off and it should be a little warmer. Hopefully I can do my lifters and rockers and finish this engine's mods once and for all! If nothing else, I'll have new lifters and nice shiny clean injectors.

Has anyone else done a full clean on their injectors? Are the results that noticeable? Thanks for the tip! Im approaching 150k, probably should consider this soon.

Check out Karma's post about 1/3 down the page, with pics.

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t1731p15-fuel-injector-cleaning?highlight=INJECTOR

The PCM programming correctness depends on the injectors being to spec and matched as when new. As they crud up it accommodates a bit but can only do so much.

Bottom line is clean injectors work better and let the PCM command fuel behavior properly.

Sent the injectors out today on the way to get the Skyhawk's/Century's transmission. Should be back late next week if all goes well.

Other than that, I had a bit of time today so I started making a block-off plate for my transmission cooler. It would be nice to drive the car in slightly cooler temperatures but the trans would never ever warm up to where it was supposed to. I just cut out a 1/8" aluminum plate from some scrap I have to the size of the cooler's face. The brackets used to hold it to the car have some extra holes in them, so I utilized them in that I drilled holes in the blockoff plate and will fasten the plate with ordinary automotive pushpins. Like you would see to hold on the inner fender liners, etc. I'm going to back the plate in foam so it doesn't rattle, paint it black, and cover the edges with door edge guard.

I really hope it warms up soon. I want to get these lifters and rockers done and get driving!

bansheeeeeeeeeeeeeee

I know man:(...i miss the sound so much!

charlieRobinson wrote:

Has anyone else done a full clean on their injectors? Are the results that noticeable? Thanks for the tip! Im approaching 150k, probably should consider this soon.

I found that my 140K injectors would make the car occasionally 'spit' at idle. Hard to describe. But after the injectors were cleaned it ran smooth like butter.

Got lots of work done today! The car appears ready to run except for the fuel injectors. I started on my own when i got home after running some errands then dad came home to help since he was done with his jobs. We got set on tearing the top end down, which probably took half an hour at best. Everything came off easy, rockers came off easy too, and I kept everything in order in case I had to re-construct with the old parts again. The old lifters didn't want to come out very easily, but we worked them loose eventually.

Here we are installing the new ones. I dunked them in oil first and poured oil down their cylinders too, just in case. Can't ever have too much lube.


Old lifters and rockers. Thankfully all the re-useable rocker bolts were in great condition.


Stuff!


The Yella Terras made their second debut, and hopefully this time they fit and have no play. Prior to lifter installation, I did a side-by-side the new ones, as planned, are a HAIR longer. Just a hair. Got the rockers torqued down, and there's ZERO PLAY now! I'm so happy!





Everything is back together, save the fuel rail. I should have the injectors back Friday, according to Mr. Injector. I'd like to be able to fire this thing up Sunday and see where I stand.

love it! when ya want to do mine? lol

Sweet action shot!