Write Up: Transmission Fluid & Filter Change

Write-Up: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t3692p15-write-up-transmission-fluid-filter-change#78551

Transmission Fluid FAQ: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t5370-transmission-fluid-survey

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My son and I changed his transmission fluid, and filter yesterday, and did so very quickly with the help of a fluid extractor that I purchased from Griot’s Garage some time ago. It took less than ten minutes to drain the fluid—from above, and through the transmission dipstick tube, and that is because the extractor holds only seven quarts; we extracted six quarts first as not to overflow the extractor; drained the extractor, and then extracted another quart. Since we had the Riv’s front wheels up on ramps it prevented us from getting virtually all the oil out. In the end we removed a total of eight quarts from the transmission. When we unbolted the pan, there was no gushing of fluid, just a very controlled very small stream from the back of the pan, the trans filter, and the residual draining off the inside of the transmission itself; the transmission pan was very clean. The whole draining of the fluid was painless. I think it’s time for a scissors lift as that would have made the transmission drain almost fluid free. The only issue we encountered was the sleeved seal that is pushed into the transmission housing (what a PITA), but it too surrendered; it took by far more time to remove the sleeve than all other work we did—put together! We replaced the fluid with Mobil1 synthetic transmission fluid as usual. If anyone is interested in a fluid extractor, there are many on the market at varying prices.

We used the extractor to make child’s play of replacing the supercharger oil as well. However, this extractor (or any other) will not remove the engine oil! You have to physically push the extraction tube into the dipstick, and the Riv has a screen or some other impediment that prevents the tube from reaching its destination.

Oil Extractor

The one I own is the $58 model. Griot's no longer sells this model so I found it somewhere else to show the one I used.

Here's my exact unit in action:

Pictorial

I use the same method on my Cadillac CTS (the late model Riviera will not allow the tube to go where it needs to go, so trying to evacuate engine oil from a late model Riviera DOES NOT WORK with tube extractors); this one just happens to be a BMW, but if I did a pictorial it would be the same for the transmission fluid as well.

P.S. This was so simple we decided to save the drain plug we were going to install into the transmission pan for some other project—we won't be needing it on the Riv.

Cool! Thanks for the info. I might look into getting one of those!

they got one of those at my dad's shop but i'd rather pull the pan. pretty damn easy when you have a lift

pwmin wrote:

pretty damn easy when you have a lift

Cheater! I've been thinking about a scissors lift for my home garage.

i changed my oil today and decided to check my trans fluid for the first time since I got the car
It wasn't exactly what i was hoping for. The level was ok but the fluid was a little brown and smelled a bit less than healthy. What does this mean? Is it burnt or just old and needs to be changed. As of now, I plan to get a fluid flush and change with a new filter.

How many miles you got on her? I flushed mine at 80k, but fluid was nice and red, everything was running perfect. It's recommended that if you are having any problems or have high miles, just change the fluid. It's up to you, just be aware that flushing is best on a healthy trans.

I'd get this taken care of asap. Transmissions can be the weak point on our cars. Check the magnet in the pan when you change the filter for bits of metal. Good luck!

162k I have no idea what kind of service it has had before 2007.

I'd just change the fluid/filter. You can do it yourself in an hour. I'd change the fluid again a few days after, just to get it a little cleaner.

Gotta keep up on stuff like this, or it'll bite you when you least expect. It's a good idea to change the fluid every 40-50k miles.

you can use an extractor to replace the tranny fluid easily.

But I would recommend you do it the "hard" way by dropping the trannsmission fluid pan and replace the filter. Then easy fluid changes to keep it fresh.

looking at the zzp website and others, I see they keep pushing the dextron6 ATF. I work part time at a parts store and haven't even ever heard of dextron 6 and know our cars natively take dextron 3 so i am curious as to the benefit. Anyone know?

I couldn't find it on zzp's site but google did...

Here’s what GM has to say about the new DEXRON VI:
Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is considered the life-blood of the automatic transmission. It is used to transfer power in the torque converter and provide the pressure to apply the transmission’s various clutches and bands. It also is used to clean, lubricate and cool the components of the transmission. GM’s new transmission fluid, DEXRON®-VI, was developed to have a more consistent viscosity profile; a more consistent shift performance in extreme conditions; and less degradation over time.
Beginning with the design and development of GM’s new Hydra-Matic 6-speed rear-wheel-drive transmissions, GM Powertrain engineers determined the need for a new transmission fluid to withstand the complexity of the clutch-to-clutch transmission operation. Additionally, GM engineers identified opportunities to improve viscosity, durability, and impact on fuel economy with a new fluid.
"The development of DEXRON®-VI is the first time an automotive company has worked so closely with petroleum and additive companies to develop a new fluid," says Roy Fewkes, driveline fluids group leader, GM Powertrain. "The result is a new fluid that significantly outperforms existing fluids in every aspect. In fact, we have had to significantly extend the length of our durability tests to fully test the fluid’s capability."
Internal GM tests have demonstrated DEXRON®-VI to deliver more than twice the durability and stability in friction tests compared to existing fluids. It also has demonstrated superior performance in pitting, foaming, oxidation and shear stability tests.
Here’s what it means for ZZPerformance and your our transmissions:

We believe in delivering the best possible transmission in the world. This means keeping up on all the latest technologies and constantly striving to improve all of our product offerings. The new Dexron 6 transmission fluid allows us to deliver a transmission that lasts longer, performs better and at the same time gets better gas mileage. The viscosity of Dexron 6 drops from 36 to 30 on cold starts and a little when warmed up as well. All while delivering better shifting and better protection during hot operation.
Bottom line is longer clutch life, quicker shifts, improved fuel economy and more HP put to the ground.

I recently changed my fluid (for my Regal) over to the Dextron 6, which I purchased from a GM dealership (paid too much, of course).


I'll be honest. I actually noticed an improvement in performance. I had the stock fluid in there when I got the car, and I changed it over to Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, and I didn't notice much of a difference.

Then recently I changed it to the Dextron 6 and there was a NOTICABLE increase in shift time. My car's tranny seemed a little sluggish before, but now it seems that the transmission is not laboring at all to shift into the next gear. It snaps into 2nd and 3rd quickly - firm AND smooth (which is a hard combination to get in my experiences).

I've already ordered more Dextron 6, this time from ZZP for my Riviera (about $5 a quart vs. $7 a quart from the dealership).

I don't $h!† around. If the fluid didn't perform, I wouldn't bother mentioning it, I'd just deal with it - but it actually caught my attention. I'm curious as to what others are saying about this new fluid.

Hmm... very good info. I did a search and found at least a few references that Dexron VI is backward compatible with Dexron III systems. Popular mod at Corvette Forums. I wonder if you have to flush out all of the old, or if you can mix the VI with the III?

AA wrote:

I wonder if you have to flush out all of the old, or if you can mix the VI with the III?

Buapo did you flush it out or just drain some and add the VI?

I dropped the pan and let it drain as much as it would - ended up adding 8 quarts because it dripped for quite some time (that's another story all together).

No flush, after hearing the horror stories, I refuse to flush my tranny. And the Dexron III should be compatiable. I've had it in there for about 2 weeks, and it's still doing great.

I was driving home from work last week in my 95 Riv and noticed that my tranny was slipping in first gear when making left hand turns. After I got home I checked the vacuum lines from the fuel rail and throttle body that are connected to the modulator on the 4T60E and noticed that there was tranny fluid in the lines.

The tranny fluid was also low but there were no visible leaks on the floor of the garage. I also noticed over the last month grayish smoke from time to time when starting the vehicle. Is it possible that the tranny fluid in the vacuum lines was being used when starting the vehicle?

While inspecting the vacuum lines the rubber T connector on the throttle body crumbled and I was off to Advance auto parts to find some new connectors. I purchased a plastic T connector with two 3/8” and one ¼” port, a 3/8” to ¼” plastic adapter for the modulator connection, a ¼” to 3/16” plastic adapter for the fuel rail, two feet of ¼” fuel line for the modulator, one foot of 3/8 fuel line for the throttle body connection, one foot of 3/16 fuel line for the fuel rail connection, four quarts of Castrol ATF Dex III and a new Delco vacuum modulator 8662967.

I changed the vacuum lines, modulator and added tranny fluid. It appears that I lost almost 3 quarts of tranny fluid because of the leaky modulator. Is this possible?

I have been driving for a week now with no problems and better acceleration.

There should not be tranny fluid in the vacuum lines. Sounds like a bad vacuum modulator.

If the diaphragm in the modulator went bad, then ATF could pass through it. I would imagine it would happen mostly at idle since vacuum is highest and that would explain your smoke. It wasn't bad enough to effect transmission operation much so it was probably kind of bad for a while but never totally failed.

Edit: Scroll down to the 11th post by Mr.Riviera to find the write up.

Hey could one of you guys and your infinate wisdom write up a tranny fluid and filter change for me? I've never done one before and I want to be sure not to kill anything when I do it. I tried having it done at my local "quick lube" and they said they couldn't. Needless to say, I don't go there anymore. Any pics you guys have of this operation would be awesome. Thanks.

There should be a write up on the website in my sig.

That has a good write up but the pictures have been moved or deleted. Thanks for the link though.

I know this is late, but I got the pictures and I will hopefully get it updated and working some time tomorrow.

I'm going to get a trans pan gasket from GMpartsdirect.com, do I need to put some RTV on it or no? Also, what O-Rings will I need?

If it's a GM trans pan gasket, no RTV needed, it's a 'dry' gasket. Mine is this way and doesn't leak a drop.

Awesome, thanks Derek. I read on another thread about warnings of a cork gasket (no RTV) that's why I want the GM one. Any word about the O-Rings?