here is my write-up from regalgs.org:
I recently finished installing an auxiliary transmission cooler and the procedure outlined in the FAQ isn't quite accurate. You don't need to drill holes or cut into any part of your riv. This forum doesn't allow us to upload pics, and I am no computer expert, so I'll find a way upload some when my brother gives me a hand. It will make the whole thing much clearer.
This is how I installed it. You guys are smart enough to know which size socket to use on a bolt, so I won't go into excruciating detail. Aside from the cooler itself, you will need
some key wrenches
an electric drill
a ratchet set
2 catch pans (a tupperware sandwich container or a coffee can will do)
and something with which to cut the rubber transmission line supplied with the kit.
I'm sure the installation would go better with air tools.The Transmission cooler:
I used the Mr. Transmission kit which is sold at Canadian Tire. It's a repackaged Tru-Cool unit and is a stacked plate, self-regulating design. When Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is cold it is viscous. The self-regulating design allows the colder, thicker ATF to flow more efficiently through two open bypass channels positioned at the top of the cooler. As operating temperatures increase, the ATF becomes hotter and thinner. It is then directed through the core where it is cooled.
It used to regularly go on sale (3 times a year) at 25% off and once a year at 40% off, but as of 03/2012 it has not gone on sale for 2 years. It comes with all the necessary mounting hardware. It's less expensive than the GM trans cooler kit , and doesn't use molded lines like the GM kit. I used the medium cooler, CT p/n 14-0105-0 (Tru-Cool p/n 4454). It's 7 1/4" x 11 x 3/4, has a recommended GVW of 18,000 lb and rated 13,000 BTU. I've used the huge CT p/n 14-0106-8 (tru-cool equivalent p/n 4490) which is 11 x 11 x 3/4", has a recommended GVW of 24,000 lb and is rated at 20,000 BTU, on my turbo regal and Roadmaster, but those cars' transmission see a little bit more abuse. I think the huge one would have been overkill for the riviera. The Tru-Cool MAX cooler used by Aaron has an even higher
BTU rating, and if you operate your vehicle in temperatures below 0ºC the external cold weather bypass is required.Installation:1) mounting the cooler
Use the 4 supplied steel mounting brackets and use the existing holes and screws in the riviera to mount the cooler. I mounted it towards the passenger side, inlet and outlet towards the bottom. I anchored the mounts to
a) the lower passenger side bolt of the radiator "X" brace.
b) the lower, driver side bolt of the brace in front center of the radiator. (This brace holds the hood latch assembly)
c) the lower bolt on the hood latch assembly itself. Using the drill, you will need to enlarge one of the holes on the steel mounting bracket to get this bolt through the bracket.
d) the top passenger side bolt that is right next to the entire hood latch assembly brace. I had to shape this last steel mount to have 2 90 degree bends it so that the cooler would lie flat. It is quite easy to shape and can easily be bent with your bare hands.
You should put some self adhesive foam pads (supplied with this kit) on the hood latch assembly bracket where the cooler might come into contact with it to prevent scratching.
I recommend fastening the cooler to the mounts by inserting the bolts so that the head of the bolt and lock washer (both supplied) are on the radiator side, and the nut (supplied) is on the bumper side. tightening them will be much easier.
the trans cooler sits about 4 inches away from the radiator, and is approximately at the level of the bumper. This is the easiest, most convenient way to mount the cooler and since it is in front of the rad it maximizes the effectiveness of the cooler.2) Connecting the cooler
i) Jack up the front of the car and use axle stands. You could also use ramps or if you are supremely lucky, a lift!
ii) remove the black plastic air dam/deflector. It is held in only by plastic retainers. Also remove the 2 bottom retainers of the passenger side inner fenderwell (also held in by plastic retainers). You'll probably need to pass your hand through there later on.
For those who don't know, in an automatic transmission, the transmission fluid flows from the transmission through the OEM cooler (which is inside the radiator) and back to the transmission. For the auxiliary cooler to be installed in series with the OEM cooler, it must be connected so that the transmission fluid goes through it after
it has gone through the OEM cooler.
iii) Place a catch pan under the passenger side radiator core and have the other one handy. The catchpans can be small because there is very little fluid that will leak out (much less than 1/4 quart)
now comes the hard part. It is VERY difficult to efficiently reach the lower radiator area because of the lack of space.
iv) from under the car, disconnect the transmission line that exits the radiator with a wrench (or locking pliers). A bit of trans fluid will leak out of the core (into your catchpan). Place your other catch pan under where the steel line rests when you let it go.
There a might be "capital B" shaped clamp holding the trans lines down there. Mine was simply loose and resting on the airdam. It fell out when I removed the airdam so I don't know where it goes. Disconnect it if necessary.
v) connect the appropriate 3/8" adapter (supplied) into the radiator. The kit comes with 4 fittings (2x5/16" and 2x3/8"). You won't be needing the 5/16".
vi) Attach the rubber hose (supplied) to this fitting. Be sure to slip a hose clamp on before hand. The most difficult part of the install was tightening the damn hose clamp because there is no room and it keeps slipping. Make sure the hose clamp isn't at the very end of the hose and MAKE SURE NOT
TO DOUBLE HOSE CLAMP ANY CONNECTION POINT. Ideally, use fuel injection clamps as they won't damage the hose.
vii) Run the hose through the opening on the passenger side of the radiator to either of the outlets on the cooler. I used the outlet closest to the passenger side, but the oil can flow in either direction through the cooler. Roughly measure and cut the hose, all the while remembering to add about 1 inch to what you just measured. You do NOT want to end up with a hose that is too short or a bend with too small a radius.
The minimum recommended radius on an 11/32" hose is 3.5".
Slip a hose clamp (supplied) over the end of the hose and secure it to the fitting.
They recommend 15-20 inch-lbs of torque on the the hose clamps if anyone actually bothers to use a torque wrench.
vii) repeat the process of the previous steps but obviously after connecting one end of the remaining hose to the free outlet of the cooler cooler, connect the other end to the steel line you previously disconnected from the radiator. You will need to attach the last 5/16 adapter to the steel line in order to attach the hose to it. Be sure to secure both ends with hose clamps.
When routing the hoses, pass them inside the hollow grey plastic "chin spoiler" or airdam that is beneath the bumper. It makes it much cleaner looking.
3) checking the installation
i) check all mounting bolts and clamps for tightness
ii) make sure rubber hoses are free of kinks, and away from sharp edges. You don't want to restrict the flow.
iii) in "park" start the engine and let it run for a minute or two.
iv) stop the engine and check all connections for leaks.
v) Check trans fluid level. You will most likely need to add fluid. I like type F.
4) Re-install the airdam
the trick for those plastic fasteners is to pull the part shaped like a nail halfway out of the ring, insert the ring into the airdam first and then push in the part shaped like a nail. Don't forget the inside of the fenderwell if you unfastened it.
During your first week of operation, check the connections and fluid level regularly.
I will upload pics as soon as I can. I think i will paint the shiny metallic mounting brackets flat black (with tremclad rustproof paint) because you can see them when looking at the front of the car. In retrospect, I should have painted them before the installation.
Please note that since the car is jacked up during the install, it's the ideal time to change your back plugs because you can actually see what you're doing. I changed my back plugs to 104s while my car was jacked.
] Since most people probably won`t read this thread to the end, it's noted later that the upper
trans line in the rad is the return hose for trans fluid. Since I use my car mostly in the winter I have elected to leave the cooler in series BEFORE the radiator cooler to regulate trans temps. To maximize heat transfer, you should be connecting it to the TOP line.