Write-Up: Installing Boost Gauge

bump? helpp guys... will a GRAND PRIX pillar pod work?

I held one up to my pillar once, it's not an exact fit but you could make it work, it would be ugly IMO, unless you glued some fabric to it to match...

deekster_caddy wrote:

I held one up to my pillar once, it's not an exact fit but you could make it work, it would be ugly IMO, unless you glued some fabric to it to match...

Its not as ugly as the rear view mirror when Travis looks into it....

OH...

Chicken wrote:

deekster_caddy wrote:

I held one up to my pillar once, it's not an exact fit but you could make it work, it would be ugly IMO, unless you glued some fabric to it to match...

Its not as ugly as the rear view mirror when Travis looks into it....

OH...

oh rly?? usually when i look in my rear view mirror i see two cute girls.... usually your daughters

that's because they wont get in the car with you....

Chicken wrote:

that's because they wont get in the car with you....

They are usually fighting for the front seat... BUT occasionally they will settle for the back seat...

Anybody updated their rivis with boost gauges recently? I just reread the last 8 pages.
Would luv to see more on this,especially PICS of the where they put them and how they hooked them up.

Also look under "Write Ups" on top of this page. you might find something there as well.

Here's the write-up: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/interior-f20/write-up-series-1-drivers-door-boost-gauge-install-t3127.htm

I just finished installing a boost gauge in drivers door vent (I went with the upper vent) took me approx 4 hours from start to finish.
I followed the write up and it went pretty smooth. I got my boost gauge from advanced auto, they have 2 types in stock 1 is sunpro and I cant remember the other one. 32.59 was the cost. of the sunpro I used.
now that I can see how much vacuum and boost I have, Im dissapointed.
vacuum is good boost is only 3lbs when I punch it. So now back to more troubleshooting.

well I just found a vacuum leak at the fuel regulator hose. Fixed it and I got boost! Around 8psi Is this a normal boost pressure for the 95s?
Sorry to get off topic.

8 PSI sounds normal to me.

i got a boost gauge from one of my turbo buddies. I tried to install it on my series 2, but i have no idea what im doing. What is the best way to hook up a boost gauge? i looked at the write up, but that is a series 1.

can somebody show me a picture of where the fuel pressure regulator and the vacuum tree is? i think i know where the vacuum tree is, but not entirely sure. thanks

if you don't get an answer soon, consider stopping by autozone and look in the engine section of just about any of their Haynes GM manuals with the same year 3800 engine (full size Buick-Olds-Pontiac repair manual covering '96 models for instance)

Albertj

on the 95 if you just follow the fuel rail up to the drivers side at the corner you will find what looks like a small canister hooked to the rail. on the 95 its actually part of it as a whole unit. if you find it thats the fuel regulator. dont know about the 96,s though?

FPR =


vac tree for a 96=

so is that how i would hook up a boost gauge on a 96' then? buy a tee thing, have one hose go to the fuel regulator, on go to the vacuum tree, and one go to the gauge?

no. to tap in a boost gauge you need to T off a vac line under the snout of the S/C or back behind the housing at the factory T.
i believe most people just run the line from the gauge to here:

Autometer part# 4376
It's an auto-calibrating electronic boost gauge with some cute little functions to it. Since it is electronic, it comes with a sender which is essentially a MAP sensor - a MAP sensor that is dimensionally identical to the factory one on a riv. My 97, and presumably all the other SII L67 rivs have an extra spot for an additional MAP sensor right next to the stock one - nice!



There's the area. I don't have EVAP stuff, hoist brackets, or the alternator support bracket on my car so this area of your car might be more occupied than this.

Here's the actual bracket - with extra MAP installed







And now, installed backonto the motor







That's the easier part. Now the wiring...





Why the hell does a boost gauge have more wires than my aeroforce...?
Ok well there's a hot (white) and ground (black) for the gauge light bulb. Connect the hot to the dimmer circuit. Tapping into one of the illumination wires behind the cig lighter was easiest for me. Then the next 3 wires goes straight to the MAP sensor and don't need to be messed with. The last 2 are power for the gauge. The key there is to connect that red power wire for the gauge to a circuit that is switched on by the ignition AND STAYS on while you turn the key to start the car. If you try to use an accessory circuit that suspends during start, the gauge will fail to calibrate and read wrong. This was a little more work to find than I'd hoped but I ended up using a large gauge pink wire that was found in one of the harnesses on the left side of the driver footwell. Needless to say, you have to remove the cover.





There's the gauge btw.

opening ceremony!
...not quite but close

The MAP install is slick. OEM looking for sure.

Just a question, didn't you already have enough gauges for a shuttle launch?

Looks good !!!!!

I have only just now recognized that the 96 has the T already there for a second MAP if I'm seeing that right. I wonder what it was for. If I catch one in the boneyard, I'll grab it.

As for the gauge situation, this was a replacement for the last one, which unfortunately stopped lighting up. It was the "el glo" which looks fantastic but I wanted to get one with a lower boost range too. There aren't many 15psi gauges out there.

Still keeping an eye open for a wideband

Which brand / make of Wideband are you going to go with.?
I saw an AEM UEGO gauge and controller package New on EBay for $184.00 w/ free 2 day shipping.
Is that a good price.?
I welded an extra bung in my exhaust when doing the headers and HF cat for a future wideband install. Haven't really looked for one since then.
Other things have become a priority. I plan on budgeting for one when I get the HPT software that can read it and be of some use during tuning. I won't necessarily need the gauge at that point. Just the sensor and controller.

Price is better than everything else I've seen for a quality one but mine has to be a 2 1/16 round gauge with a black brezel and primarily red display (to match the other 2 gauges in the area). The AEM gauge that the vendors sell can fit my theme. I'd have to take a look at that one.

After having used the Aeroforce for a while now, I would almost suggest to just get a WB sending unit and connect it to one of the aux inputs on the aeroforce and then just used the aeroforce or get a dual aeroforce setup. Unlike the aeroforce, I would consider the wideband to be only useful during tuning and logging, otherwise it's a potentially annoying light show. I can only imagine taking a road trip at night with a wideband flashing lol.