FAQ: Brake Rotors and Pads

In my experience with them the dusting is minimal and i have silver alloys. Also, I don't experience the chirping or pulsation that Albert mentions but maybe that has to do with the fact that I also have EBC dimpled and slotted rotors. I don't know.
The analogy of hooking an aircraft carrier is even more prevalent with the LS 1 calipers and stainless braided lines. I really like the brake feel and action now that I've changed over.

I have used the EBC dimpled/slotted rotors on the front for ~25k miles, in combination with Hawk HPS pads (F-Body calipers). This is positively the best braking system combo I've tried. The HPS pads also have a very specific bed-in procedure (which includes a few 80-20 decels), and it does stink to high heaven. This procedure is to lay down an even coating of pad compound in the rotor - to keep consistent grip around the rotor surface.

I've noticed braking is much more effective at faster speeds than with slow rolling. I've also notice much better performance after the parts are heated up. I credit most of this to the pad compound. Imo, the combo is borderline race ready - anything more could be dangerous on the street. For example, during a cold winter drive of 100 miles with no braking, the brake parts would get very cold. If I tried a panic stop at speed, the brakes were totally unresponsive for about 1 second, followed by a surge of stopping power once they warmed up. A sort of "turbo lag" analogy for brakes. I understand that true race pads will react this way at much lower temperatures, and more frequently as a result.

The Raybestos pads worked better cold. Period.

The EBC pads only take a stop or 2 to get "warm" and then - yeah it's kind of like hooking the cable.

Matthew you asked about wheels and dusting. I run the silver painted OE alloys in winter and the chromeplated OE alloys in summer. Too soon to comment on dusting, most of my driving is hiway so I don't really stop *that* often. The EBC "Redstuff" pads are sold as low dust pads. The Raybestos ones I had (CarQuest Blue) didn't dust much at all, and what dust I *did* get came off pretty easy.

Albertj


Albertj

What are the best rotors to get for the rivi, Front and rear need to get changed, they are glazzed and warped, and its no fun trying to stop while exiting the thru-way, secondly, i baught the car used and it has had minor braking problems since day one, should i get the whole sha-bang done, rotors pads calipers lines fluid?

My thoughts: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/brakes-suspension-f6/write-up-f-body-brake-mod-t2310-90.htm

I'm very pleased with the stock brake setup and good quality pads and rotors. I don't know if the '97 had the same size front rotors as the '98 though - I think it does. If everything works well you should be very pleased by the braking. My car stops as hard as traction will allow, time and time again.

Get decent parts from NAPA or Raybestos (not their cheap stuff) and you'll be happy with the final product.

No reason to replace calipers unless they are not working. You should bleed new fluid through the system if it's still got the original.

I agree the stock set-up is more than adequate for stopping. My problem was the cheap Chinese rotors would be trashed after 35k miles. Invest in good iron rotors - the metallurgy makes a difference. Also, slotted rotors seem to be doing well for me so far, but they do make some noise during medium to hard braking.

I have some barely used ceramic Akibono front pads (NO brake dust, ever) I would let go for a reasonable price.

Michael: Are you going to maintain the brakes yourself?

Albertj

Update

The EBC pads are OK stopping when cold but once they heat up (after a stop or 2), <> they stop.

Given the road salt and so on, can't comment on dust.

Albertj

Quote :

The EBC pads are OK stopping when cold but once they heat up (after a stop or 2), <> they stop.

That makes sense to me. Redstuff seems to act like the Hawk HPS compound. The greenstuff pads should have more friction when cold, while the yellowstuff are race pads (won't stop at all when cold).

Update - the pulsating has all but gone away. Either I had stuff on the rotor faces or I messed up putting them back on the car and they will warp in a few months. Time will tell.

My conclusio nis that EBC pads - at least the Redstuff - are fine, and it's a good idea to use them with new rotors.

Albertj

albertj wrote:

Update - the pulsating has all but gone away. Either I had stuff on the rotor faces or I messed up putting them back on the car and they will warp in a few months. Time will tell.

My conclusio nis that EBC pads - at least the Redstuff - are fine, and it's a good idea to use them with new rotors.

Albertj

I have heard that "warped" rotors is not really the rotors warping, but rather brake pad materiel building up in deposits on the rotors. I know from my days turning rotors that the really do warp, but they start warping based on the deposit buildups, so it's completely feasible that you scrubbed the old deposits off...

The package insert with the EBC pads advises it takes around a week of use to finish bedding the pads in properly.

One cause of rotor warping is corrosion on the face of the hub. Have to clean it off to shiny metal or else it will not let the rotor hat seat properly, and the rotor will then warp over time. If the rotors are not new, have to clean the insides of the hats also. A "paint remover" Scotchbrite wheel works fine for this. ATE sells a kit fir this purpose too.

I continue to be amused by how these pads stop OK when cold, but *really* stop well once warmed.

Albertj

I have had RedStuff pads and Dimpled EBC rotors on all 4 corners for about 2 years. The pads have a lot left, and there are no grooves or signs of cracks in the rotors.

A friend put hawk pads and drilled rotors on a GTP at the same time. He replaced both front calipers last month because the pads came apart. The rotors were also cracked in multiple places.

He paid $200 dollars more for pads and rotors then I did, and they never did stop as well.

Here's an update.

The EBCs are dusting somewhat but not so much as to freak me out. A 'bottle brush' and some all-purpose spray on cleaner - the type that has orange oil - seems to work just fine cleaning things up. The Raybestos (Carquest Blue) pads had less dust, but this is a trade-off. If you don't mind a tolerable amount more dust, the EBCs seem to stop better when warm. The Raybestos pads make less dust but although they stop the car quickly and predictable, they don't stop it like the EBCs do once the EBCs get warm.

Albertj


They are stopping fine.

Heard about these, but heard very little. I'm quite interested in getting them for whenever the pads I currently have start to wear out, because I hate how quickly my wheels get so dirty from brake dust!


Anybody know the pros and cons of these, or if they make them for the Riviera?

The best pads I know for this are the Akibono ceramics. I used these for several thousand miles, no dust what-so-ever, like the rear wheels but on the front of the car.

When I took them off the car, I was surprised to find they were hardly worn at all! Still have them, will sell for $25 shipped. They were $80 new. Here's a picture, The Aki pad is on top. They have more compound remaining than the Hawk HPS pad comes with new:



Pros: wheels stay cleaner, good performance with most DD, pads last forever.

Cons: pads get hotter, not the best for constant high speed use.

I'd take you up on the offer but like I said, my pads still feel like they have a lot of life in them, so once they start to go I'll look into these!

IBx1 wrote:

my pads still feel like they have a lot of life in them,

have you looked at the pads on your car? dont wait till you hear the
metal-metal screech of worn out pads. you can be low on pad life and never know it until you hit the wear indicator(assuming your pads have them, some just get down to the metal backing)

How do I do a visual check? Kinda hard to see them behind the wheels.

you will need to remove the wheel to check them. many shops will do a free brake inspection for you though. or next time you have the car in for a balance and rotation you can politely ask to step in the bay and take a look at the pads.
the ones AA posted are pretty much full life pads. you will need to look through the brake caliper to see both pads and the rotor.

Alright, I'll call the shop I got the balance/allignment/rotation done last time and see if they'll check my brakes. I'll have them install the pads if I wind up buying AA's.


If they're secretly low right now, they hide it pretty well, I have no problems braking, although bigger rotors might help me get from 60-0 in less than one rear-ender.

The bad part about the wear indicators is that they typically only put the squeal tab on one pad per wheel, so it's possible if the tab-less pad should wear out faster than the other one (it happens), you can ruin a set of rotors before you ever hear the wear indicators make a sound. The brakes will work 100% until the day when the pad wears though, then you'll hear a grinding sound - it happens instantly.

Ilan, it would be a good (and fun) challenge for you to lift the car and take off the wheels and calipers - remove the pads for examination. This way you can see for yourself if the pads are in good shape, and also learn how the brakes work. I think I was your age the first time I did brakes. It's an amazing system capable of generating more HP than your engine, yet so simple! Good stuff for future engineers, imo.

we are here to help if you run into any kinks.
the only tools you will need are the "special" caliper bolt socket available at any parts store for like $3.

Oh man, I forget you guys have the "special" caliper bolts. Ugh..