EGR Valve Troubles

So my 96' with 155K is showing a ses light with a bad EGR valve pintle error code P1406. I have tried 3 different egr valves and I am still getting this code. The egr's are clean and work/function properly. My question is this, what else could be causing this code to pop up. I checked for vacuum leaks and found none. The intake gaskets, super charger gaskets, plugs, wires, valve cover gakets, water pump, and radiator were all replaced within the last 50K.

did you just swap it out? I'm almost positive there is a "zero position relearn" on the pintle, because when you first turn on the ignition after installing a new valve, it takes the position voltage it sees before the start and records that as the position zero voltage. You can force it to be learned with a tech 2 scanner (at gm).

Since I'll assume you don't have this piece of equipment, just disconnect the power to the valve and then use the code checker you have to clear the CEL. Turn the key off right away so that the code does NOT reset. Connect the EGR valve electrics up and turn on the key . You must clear the code before reinstalling the new egr valve.
Please report back and let us know if it works.

Well I tried this last night with no luck. I guess I am going to have to go out and buy a new egr valve. Before I do that I am going to double check everything and make sure all is good. I will keep posting until I figure it out.

There is a reset procedure you need to do or the code will always reappear.

Jason wrote:

There is a reset procedure you need to do or the code will always reappear.

The one that you refer to in the above post?

yes. Note that there are two that are mentionned. You can also reset it with a tech 2 scanner. Maybe someone with the 96 FSM can chime in ?

I think that I might have found a problem with one of the steel ribbed tubes that connects to the intake manifold. It's cracked right where it bolts up to the manifold. Do you think that this could be giving me my problem code P1406. Well, I guess it's off to the salvage yard to see if I can find a used one.

yes. The EGR is a metered system.

just duct tape it

dreww wrote:

just duct tape it

Ya right!

I was able to install a different tube last night and I still have a code after driving the car. This is driving me nutz!

You cleared the code after installing the new tube, right?

If not..it could be one of those codes where it takes 3 consecutive drive cycles with the test passing to clear.

Yes, I have and AutoXray code reader and I clear the code as described above. I just don't want to drop the cash on a egr when I don't believe that's the problem.

Ok..with three different valves we should be able to skip the pintle position as a problem. (Still possible, but less probable).

At your EGR
Pin A Gray to pcm valve control
Pin B Black sensor ground
Pin C Brown to pcm egr pintle position signal
Pin D Gray to +5V reference
Pin E Pink and +12V

I would check pins B, D and E for the proper items. Without any of them your EGR can not function properly. You should test these with the engine off, ignition on.

Do I need to unplug the egr or should I probe the wires? I tested them with it unplugged and I am getting the +5V and the +12V at the correct wires. Not sure how to check the gray to pcm valve control or the brown to pcm egr pintle position signal?

After doing a little reading on alldata, shouldn't the SES light go away after so many start ups of the car? I still think something else is causing this code. I looked all the wiring over and could not spot any obvious shorts.

I believe it is 3 consecutive good run cycles. A run cycle is about 10 minutes.

my check engine lights is coming and going
i went to autozone and they told me it was my egr valve
has anyone here had to replace theirs?
and would it be ok to get a used on, because i dont want to pay 175 bucks to replace it
and lastly is it hard to do myself?

Idk ive never done one on a riv nor have i looked for one on it but on most cars its a piece of cake and sometimes you can just clean it out and it will work fine ( or at least on my last car it did) i cant say for sure since ive never done it on a riv though...

its not hard to replace , disconnect the battery, unbolt the old one, bolt on the new one, plug in connection, connect the battery, and go.

but if you wanna hear loud un bolt the egr and start ur car with the hood open, no joke sounds like a drag car pretty loud

Hold the presses Corey. There is no real need to unhook the battery. The FSM will tell us to unhook it to rotate your tires, that isn't actually necessary since we aren't talking about open fuel.

Disconnect the electrical connector, remove two 13mm nuts and lift the old one off. Clean surface and with new gasket install new one. Make sure you do this with the car cold. This part has exhaust going through it and will be hot if the car is not cold.

On a side note, I have had success removing the valve and using carb/choke cleaner sprayed into it and moving the pintle valve to get it working again.

If you need a valve and want one that looks new, holler.. I've got a couple laying around for cheap.

Check with the parts counter guy at a nearby GM car dealer or a CarQuest - IIRC they sell a cleaner specially for EGRs... at least, they did last I checked.

Reason is that some carb cleaners can damage the diaphragm in there. Usually the cleaner does not get that far, but if it does you'll need a new EGR anyway.

Whether you pull/clean or pull/replace the valve you might want to get the revised gasket. It is Delco 3F1160 (standard gasket is 3F1010) and has a carbon catching screen. Problem is, the screen gets carboned up instead of the valve so you'll have to replace the gasket every so many mailes. Benefit is the EGR valve does not clog in and of itself, replacing the gasket is somewhat less hassle/risk.

While you are at it, if your throttle body's never been cleaned, might want to do that.

Good luck

Albertj

IIRC one good reason to disconnect the battery in this case is to clear the active codes from the PCM while you are changing the valve. Otherwise there is no need to do it.

Codes don't clear that quick. On a cold engine the valve is two nuts and one connector.

I would always recommend clearing codes with a scan tool whenever possible. That way you know all history and instances have been cleared.

BTW, you are close to Pat.. lol He pointed out the exit last weekend during a B'ville meet.

Does anyone happen to know if an EGR valve from a 2006 L26 would work on my car?