Transmission Shutter

digimi wrote:

I have the shutter thing going on as well. Seems to happen when shifting direction or taking a turn when there is a load on the engine,,,,speed doesn't seem to matter. I have been told its the TC and they even make an additive for this problem,,,,which had no effect except I did feel better for a bit.
I think its time to look for another riv. or maybe that park ave I been wanting. I do like these cars but 2000 grand for a tranny is a bit much for me. Better to add another 8 g and look for that 2005 park.

What kind of trans are you trying to buy because that's stoopied high and to spend 8grand on a park is ridiculous

digimi, you don't know for sure it's the trans. Have you had the had the codes read?

When is the last time the spark plug wires were changed?

Well that is a good question. Im having that done this Monday so we shall see. Guess I could have taken that $8 bucks I spent for the Dr tranny shutter fix and put it in plugs. As for the codes that light has been on forever. It reads vacuum canister but that's a LIE cause I changed it and from this site learned how to test it as well. SOOOOO it aint that. The plug wires look rather new or at least there not stock. Maybe a leaking coil as well???? How do I test for that??? Will that pop a code ????

We've seen this many times. The shudder can be the plug wires, even if they still look good. I don't know for sure in your case, but there's a really good chance this is the cause. Get this out of the way before you go monkeying with the transmission. You shouldn't need to use additives unless maybe you're fixing a leak from old seals.

Tip: don't put just any plug wire set on - use only AC Delco or Packard/Delphi wires, or something that has a guarantee. Your basic NAPA/AutoZone wire set will last maybe a month on our engines. I just returned a brand new set of Beldon wires to NAPA last week for this reason.

Best of luck.

well the plugs and wire set on in this Monday. That just might do it as it runs like,,,,, well it doesn't really run at all. MONDAY I'll let everyone know if this solves the SHUTTER problem

I hate to bring up an old thread but i still donbt see a New topic button.

Anyways just cuerious about my transmission. when im driving and i hit 3rd and 4th gear around 1000-2000 rpms i feel/hear a low pitched growl, i can constantly feel the vibration in the steering wheel and pedals. its not causing any issues with driving just worries me a bit.

Replaced trans filter and fluid about 5k miles ago.

1995 riviera SC 105xxx Miles

When you check the level of the trans fluid, is the car running or off? warmed up or cold?

Off-Cold

or Off-Hot

i just looked at it now its cold and its way above the 2 dots.

What should i want?

JacobsRedRivi wrote:

I hate to bring up an old thread but i still donbt see a New topic button.

Anyways just cuerious about my transmission.  when im driving and i hit 3rd and 4th gear around 1000-2000 rpms i feel/hear a low pitched growl,  i can constantly feel the vibration in the steering wheel and pedals. its not causing any issues with driving just worries me a bit.

Replaced trans filter and fluid about 5k miles ago.

1995 riviera SC 105xxx Miles

Looked at your engine/transmission mounts lately?

I did the rear and front mounts. about to do the passenger side mount. Not sure what im going to do about the tranny mount since they dont make them and the junkyard ones are crap as well.

JacobsRedRivi wrote:

Off-Cold

or Off-Hot

i just looked at it now its cold and its way above the 2 dots.

What should i want?

Trans fluid should be checked ON-Hot after running the gear selector through the gears some. Check it that way and see if its low.

Will do before i leave. Ill post with my update

Ok so I warmed her up. Cycled through the gears a couple times. Drove it down the street and checked it. It looks to be on the lower side between the lines but there is also some bubbles on the dipstick as well

I've put 1.5kmiles since I did the supercharger, injectors, lim and water pump. It responds well, slight hesitation when going from zero (only when I'm nearly on the base at all). Shift between gears is nice, it's just 3rd and 4th when it hits the lower end of the rpms I feel a slight vibration and hear a full low pitched hum

JacobsRedRivi wrote:

Ok so I warmed her up.  Cycled through the gears a couple times. Drove it down the street and checked it. It looks to be on the lower side between the lines but there is also some bubbles on the dipstick as well

The transmission fluid needs to be at normal operating temperature. The only way to do that is to run it on the highway for 20 minutes. Then check it, engine running in Park on level ground. Driving it down the street won't cut it. The ATF expands as it heats up. Checking it as you did, it would read low. This applies to ANY car with an automatic transmission.

JacobsRedRivi wrote:

I did the rear and front mounts.  about to do the passenger side mount.  Not sure what im going to do about the tranny mount since they dont make them and the junkyard ones are crap as well.

You get an insert for the current mount, see the link: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1997,riviera,3.8l+v6+supercharged,1022050,transmission-automatic,transmission+mount,8616

The insert is top of the list (and cheapest at about $15). They show a Westar transmission mount with large bracket but I did not check stock.

Albertj

dis could also be worn out coils, plug wires and maybe throttle position sensor.

I checked it again last night after a long drive and this morning omw to work and it reads just above the 2 dots. I'll have to suck some out with a pump when I get home today. Maybe .25 quarts? ( . . | ) <-- that's about what it looks like on the dipstick. I was thinking plugs along with the tps. Anyone know how to test my could and wires? I have a VOM. I'll probably just replace the tps for the he'll of it. I'll have to break out my ryobi flex extension and a couple more angled attachments to hit it with my impact lol

JacobsRedRivi wrote:

I checked it again last night after a long drive and this morning omw to work and it reads just above the 2 dots.  I'll have to suck some out with a pump when I get home today.  Maybe .25 quarts? ( .    .  | ) <-- that's about what it looks like on the dipstick.   I was thinking  plugs along with the tps. Anyone know how to test my could and wires? I have a VOM. I'll probably just replace the tps for the he'll of it.  I'll have to break out my ryobi flex extension and a couple more angled attachments to hit it with my impact lol

the other thing you can do to test is turn off traction control...

What would I be looking for?

You would be seeing of the judder goes away.

The other thing -- when some TPS sensors fail, they develop jumps to zero in resistance value as the throttle plate is moved, causing the PCM to make sudden changes in fueling. This typically causes a sudden stumble sensation at highway speeds that some people liken to hard fish bite on a fishing pole (it lasts longer than a single misfire on a cylinder). The problem usually occurs when going up a moderate grade. This "fishbite" is often assumed to be a transmission slip problem or TCC problem, but is in fact a bad TPS. The fault is hard to catch on a scanner, and is often "diagnosed" by replacing the TPS. (from https://www.facebook.com/GM3800Tips/posts/405127826303052) Sloshua pointed this out already.

Well looks like I'll be changing that this week. I will get back with y'all with my results

Got the trans fluid smack dab in the middle of the 2 dots. definatly is a bit more responsive now. I did notice that my highway speed symptoms resemble the tps sensor symptoms that albert described. im looking for a suitable replacement this week. I still haven't tested the coils or wires yet as i dont know what to look for. Will need to consult the all knowing manual to know what i am looking for.

JacobsRedRivi wrote:

Got the trans fluid smack dab in the middle of the 2 dots.  definatly is a bit more responsive now.   I did notice that my highway speed symptoms resemble the tps sensor symptoms that albert described. im looking for a suitable replacement this week. I still haven't tested the coils or wires yet as i dont know what to look for.  Will need to consult the all knowing manual to know what i am looking for.

You are looking for the primaries and secondaries of the coils to more or less match. Use a VOM to measure the resistance of each coil's primary and secondary winding, and to check if there is any primary-secondary leakage, or leakage to ground. Measuring the primaries may be tricky because the contacts are recessed.

Still puzzled? No problem just repost. I don't want to prattle on if you already get it.

What resistance should I see? And I'm thinking.of replacing the Icm along with the coils. Any tips on what to do? I'm going to post a pic here in a sec of the harness. It looks like someone spliced it with another wire but idk what it's going to.