not sure if you wanted to see a vid of the blue light im talking about, i can try to get some darker shots if you want but i think you get the idea. you can also see what i mean by my turn signals looking somewhat red.
KillaKeninaRiv Addict
Name : Kenneth Age : 42 Location : Roseville, MI Joined : 2008-05-17Post Count : 709 Merit : 6
I was thinking about this but I dont know how good that would look on a white Riv, but I have tinted windows and Im about to do the taillight
DEMonte1997 Aficionado
Name : Rick Age : 46 Location : CT Joined : 2009-03-03Post Count : 1429 Merit : 37
Subject: Re: Write-Up: Tinting Headlights, Turn Signals, & Tail Lenses Sat Apr 10, 2010 11:47 am
I just tinted mine last week with VHT and they came out great! Thanks to the guys who helped me out with the bumper removal. It's really easy once you get all those pushpins out of the wheels well liners. I'm going to pick up some more niteshade next week and finish up the rear marker light and taillight piece.
95rivy Enthusiast
Name : curt Location : upstate ny Joined : 2009-04-04Post Count : 189 Merit : 3
Subject: tinted tail lights Sat Jul 10, 2010 3:51 pm
well i just tinted my tail light and they look amazing. So now i need to figure out how to post the pics for you guys. im so happy i did this. yea meeee!!!
95rivy Enthusiast
Name : curt Location : upstate ny Joined : 2009-04-04Post Count : 189 Merit : 3
Subject: tail light tiniting Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:45 am
so what do you think??
robotennis61 Guru
Name : robotennis Age : 63 Location : las vegas Joined : 2007-12-17Post Count : 5562 Merit : 143
the trunk was like that when i got the car and now have a new decklid. so trying to figure out how to come up with the money to paint it, maybee next summer. i'll get more pics at night your you guys, it looks sweet.
ZEP Fanatic
Name : Zach Joined : 2007-12-24Post Count : 498 Merit : 11
I've been thinking about doing this to mine. I've got sequential tails so I haven't done it b/c I didn't want it to potentially ruin the effect the sequencer gives them. Also I find that spray-tinting tails usually turns out to be a bit hazy for my tastes. That said, I definately like the color and it's not overly dark. Nice job with the tint.
97 park ave Addict
Name : Tyler Age : 33 Location : MN Joined : 2009-03-06Post Count : 669 Merit : 21
The trick is to lay the clear on light for two coats and then put the last coat heavier while the clear is still a little tacky (waiting about 10 mins depending on temp and humidity). That way, you won't get runs and also not get that textured look where it's hazy. Thus, no need to WS/buff and it will come out nice like Tyler's.
Curt-Looks good. Did you clear after the tint?
97 park ave Addict
Name : Tyler Age : 33 Location : MN Joined : 2009-03-06Post Count : 669 Merit : 21
The trick is to lay the clear on light for two coats and then put the last coat heavier while the clear is still a little tacky (waiting about 10 mins depending on temp and humidity).
thats what i did, i remembered reading that on regalgs.org almost 2 years ago now, crazy how time flies...
95rivy Enthusiast
Name : curt Location : upstate ny Joined : 2009-04-04Post Count : 189 Merit : 3
Tyler, that's what I'd be going for with the tails if I did them. I may end up doing this some time soon. I've got plenty of tint left. My turn signals came out so they weren't very hazy. What brand of clear coat did you use?
97 park ave Addict
Name : Tyler Age : 33 Location : MN Joined : 2009-03-06Post Count : 669 Merit : 21
I like Nason brand acrylic clear. You should be able to get that at any parts store that has professional paint. Duplicolor should work fine too but I've had bad luck with it every now and then.
97 park ave Addict
Name : Tyler Age : 33 Location : MN Joined : 2009-03-06Post Count : 669 Merit : 21
I like Nason brand acrylic clear. You should be able to get that at any parts store that has professional paint. Duplicolor should work fine too but I've had bad luck with it every now and then.
i know what you mean, i had a can that sat in my garage for less than 6 months and when i went to use it it came out all milky and thick. i still use duplicolor i just make sure i have a new can now so i dont ruin my project. ill have to give that nason a try though next time thanks rick!
ZEP Fanatic
Name : Zach Joined : 2007-12-24Post Count : 498 Merit : 11
Tyler, you didn't scuff the light lenses at all before painting? Or did you just not sand between coats? Just trying to figure out how best to do this, as I will be doing it soon.
97 park ave Addict
Name : Tyler Age : 33 Location : MN Joined : 2009-03-06Post Count : 669 Merit : 21
1. make sure the lights are clean. 2. mask off any area that you dont want nightshaded. (chrome trim/reverse lights) 3. wipe the area to be nightshaded with rubbing alcohol. 4. apply the nightshades in thin coats, you can always add another if its not dark enough, no sanding in between coats. (i did 3 or 4) 5. once the nightshades is dry, apply 2 to 3 layers of clear. (apply the first coats extremely thin, it will look like shit but when you apply the third "wet" coat a little thicker it will look nice and shiny) 6. the only reason you would need to wet sand after this is if you dont put the clear on right and you get an orange peel effect. at which point wet sand and then polish.
other than that its pretty straight forward. keep in mind like i said i did this first try, and that was almost 2 years ago. if you have ever spray painted something you can do tail lights. let me know if you have any more questions.
ZEP Fanatic
Name : Zach Joined : 2007-12-24Post Count : 498 Merit : 11
The reason I asked was because I did my turn signals, my reverse lights and the side brake lights (oval ones) with nightshade, finding as much info as I could before doing it. But I sanded between coats like several people had told me... and I didn't like the results.
Thanks for the help though, it is very straightforward.
DEMonte1997 Aficionado
Name : Rick Age : 46 Location : CT Joined : 2009-03-03Post Count : 1429 Merit : 37
Definitely DO NOT sand between coats unless you get a huge run and just want to start over. However, at the beginning, sand the pieces to be painted with 400-600 grit sandpaper or a scotch brite pad to scuff up the surface. This will give the paint something to adhere to. You will not see any of the scratches once you have painted/cleared. Then hit the parts with degreaser (rubbing alcohol) to ensure the parts are completely clean and you won't have any issues with fisheyes and whatnot.
Depending on the paint area conditions, you can also spray the floor down with a little water to prevent dust particles from becoming airborne. I do this when I'm painting because it's in a garage that is almost impossible to get completely dirt/dust free.