Write-Up: Paint Job

Can someone either link me a list of all the supplies i need to repaint my rivvy gloss black? or at least list them down and I'll find them?

like what spray gun would I need, what brand of paint is even good?


If all else fails, I'll just spray paint the god damn thing, and hope it looks good with clear coats, after sanding and priming ofcourse.

How many cans of spray paint would I even need? and do they have clear coats anywhere near as strong as auto paint in spray cans, since no one has given me a difinitive answer to this... I am NOT paying a shop 4 grand to paint a car when I can do it myself if people were to give me guides and list equipment I need

c0reyl wrote:

Can someone either link me a list of all the supplies i need to repaint my rivvy gloss black? or at least list them down and I'll find them?

like what spray gun would I need, what brand of paint is even good?


If all else fails, I'll just spray paint the god damn thing, and hope it looks good with clear coats, after sanding and priming ofcourse.

How many cans of spray paint would I even need? and do they have clear coats anywhere near as strong as auto paint in spray cans, since no one has given me a difinitive answer to this... I am NOT paying a shop 4 grand to paint a car when I can do it myself if people were to give me guides and list equipment I need

Corey,
It's just not that simple. If it was easy to paint cars, body shops would be out of business. It takes a lot of expertise to do it right, and sometimes, you have to pay someone to do the job.. Can you do it yourself? Sure you can, but be realistic about it. You'll probably screw it up at least a few times before you get it semi right. It will be a learning experience for sure. One thing is for sure, you'll gain some respect for the guys that do it for a living.

With most cars that have worn paint, you might be able to get away with scuffing the old paint, and then spraying right over that. That is only if the paint on the car is just worn, and weathered, and there is no cracking or lifting going on. Unfortunately, our Rivieras don't fit into that category. I've heard that the problem is the GM used some sort of water based primer or paint itself. I'm not sure if that is true, or there is another reason for what happens to the paint on our cars. Every Riviera I have seen has paint issues. Not sure if there is any difference whether you garage keep the car, or if it is out in the elements. They all seem to deteriorate in the same way. At first, the clear looks as if someone took some steel wool to it. You can see it under fluorescent lights especially. Then the paint lifts and flakes off in spots. That complicates the job immensely. You will need to strip the car to bare metal, re prime, and paint it. That's if you want it to last. You have two choices. You can chemically strip the paint, or you can sand it off. Either way, will be time consuming, and messy. To paint the car right, you'll need a decent air compressor, and a paint gun. I'm sure there are a few guys on this BB that can advise you about buying those two things. You will need a place to work on the car. It will be laid up for awhile. I'm not sure how much paint you will need to paint a car like the Riviera. I'm thinking at least a Gallon and a quart, probably less for the primer. Then you need other chemicals to add to the paint to get it ready to spray. Be aware that the environment can have an impact on painting also. Temperature, humidity can impact it. If you spray it outdoors, you can get things in the paint (tree sap, bugs, dirt, dust, etc). Then to do it right, you need to remove moldings around the wheels, windows, doors, or tape around them. I'm sure I have left out something, but it's an involved job. The job is a lot bigger than you think.

I don't know what a shop in your area gets to paint a car. You might want to shop around just to get an idea. I paid 4200.00 to have my car painted. It was a first rate job, and I should have paid more like 10,000.00 believe it or not. I don't think I will ever get that kind of deal again. The shop had my car for about 6 weeks. If I was you, I'd shop around. Find out what Maaco gets to paint your car. Ask them if you can strip the car yourself, and how much that can save you. I think that is your best option.

Check this thread, starting around page 4. I did a bunch of my own bodywork and the prep work for a good paint job is VERY time consuming. You are paying for labor.

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t3708p45-deekster_caddy-s-riv-pictures

Corey, do yourself a favor and pay attention to Larry and everyone else on here. Don't try painting a car--especially a Riv--yourself. You've got about the same chance as you'd have performing a successful appendectormy on yourself.
I also paid bit over 4 grand to have my Riv painted--and I am a cheap bastard. I'm not a bit sorry I did it, eiither. I spent some time watching how this painter worked to prepare the job; just watchiing him made me tired.
Incidentally, I spent a few years in a body & paint shop, as a bookkeeper. I wouldn't even trust myself to tape a car properly after seeing what those guys went through.
Oh yeah, if you want black, consider that a proper job done in black will cost a lot more. Why? because black will show up every little flaw on both the paint and the bodywork.

Larry gives great info above. As does Derek.

I'll throw in my ADD comments below.

Could you rattle can the car? Sure. Chances are it won't look great to begin with and whatever clear you throw on will deteriorate rapidly. If you go this route, try to practice on a few separate pieces of metal to see how the paint will lay. Spray the base in thin coats, just for coverage. If you get runs in the base, you will have to sand those out. Don't paint if the temp and humidity isn't right. Trust me.. otherwise you're looking at a nightmare.

As was said, the paint is pretty much shot on most of these cars from the factory. Thus, you will have to strip the panels 100%. It's a pita. Maybe look on youtube to see if there are any video tutorials on this. I'm sure there have to be some.

Also, not sure what color your car is but if it isn't black already, you'll have to paint the inside jambs and compartments or your car will look sort of odd.

GL

Quote :

Also, not sure what color your car is but if it isn't black already, you'll have to paint the inside jambs and compartments or your car will look sort of odd.

That right there is a huge cost determiner. Changing a car's paint color might cause the price to double vs. matching the OEM color, for the reasons stated. A LOT more effort goes into painting the engine bay, trunk, door jambs, etc.

Has anyone seen a car that was repainted a different color than the OEM color but left the internal parts, door jams, trunk, engine bay etc.. the stock color? I really dont think it would look that bad. It might even be kind of cool.

I've painted a car that way. Honestly, it looks pretty terrible. But we were only painting a low-budget race car. It wasn't meant to look nice up close, or from far away for that matter!

You can go on youtube and find a multitude ov vids pointing out many tip, tricks,and pro techiniques that you can use to get the ball rolling.Painting a car is complex.

There's a great paint vid by HOK in robo's paint thread.

Randall, that 95 really turned out amazing!


One downside though is that it really bums me out looking at mine now

Mine came to me pretty imperfect (particularly the paint!) and being a daily driver it is going to probably get worse before it gets too much better. I've already put 3k miles on it!

But really love the car, and yours is an inspiration and reminder how great these cars looked new and 100% factory.

We're both in NC, so we'll have to get together one day. I see from your Cardomain link that you are in Sophia, which is just an hour or so from me.

Great work!

Al

Thanks Al
It definitely was a pain in the ass!

This one pretty much stays in the garage, it only has 60K miles on it. It is "close" to factory but with the chrome wheels, the black chrome exhaust tips, the dash kit, and a couple other assorted "additions" it isn't exactly "100% factory".

I am having my usual get together this year, see this post ...

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t10141-north-carolina-rivieras-at-the-park-2013#160932

MapQuest shows Sanford about 65-70 miles from the park, you are more than welcome to attend.

You know the molding on the bumpers? Those ridges? What do you think the best way to smooth them out would be? Grind em off then fill and sand? I have never seen this done before.

I've seen shaved moldings and sqrivi's body kit, but any idea on how this would work out?

charlieRobinson wrote:

You know the molding on the bumpers? Those ridges? What do you think the best way to smooth them out would be? Grind em off then fill and sand? I have never seen this done before.

I've seen shaved moldings and sqrivi's body kit, but any idea on how this would work out?

I'm thinking about it too.My custom bumper is a bust but this can be done.

1,remove the bumper.thoroughly clean the inside and out.

2,cut out the "bumperette" carefully follow the outside line from the outside.

3,make sure all grease is gone.scuff up real good, with 80 or 100 grit sand paper, the inside area surrounding the bumperette cut out at least 2" all the way around,lay down a layer of fiberglass,wet it out with resin,make sure its nice and flat.continue laying down strips of fiberglass until you're satisfied that its nice and strong.

4, move to the outside of the bumper now.using kitty hair bondo ( using a 2 part 3-M filler of the same material as the bumper would be better,but its pricey as shit!) lay down a nice coat of it. lay it down in stages so you dont have to sand all day. it should cover the hole with 2 layers of bondo provided the fiberglass is allmost level with the outside of the hole. get it to where the bondo is flush with the outside of the bumper and the contours match.

5,scuff the entire bumper with 320,spray a little adhesive promoter over modded areas,prime,paint clear.

Its a mofo and no doubt about it! it seems innocent enough of a job but believe me,it aint! you will have to paint the bumper afterwards so..you need

1,pint of base color.
2,pint of clear
3,a little primer of course
4,fiberglass & cloth
5,kittyhair bondo or 2-part 3-M URETHANE FILLER
6,adhesive promoter
7,prime & paint.
8,misc stuff

now get to work.dont forget,you have to do the rear bumper too!