Write-Up: Changing Supercharger Oil

General view is around 30-40k miles, or every 2-3 years maybe.

Mine had to be original. I changed it at around 66k miles, along with the coupler. Yes, that oil had quite a bad smell to it and was dark in color. At least it was nearly to the correct oil level the entire time.

Cheers

Well i bought my car with 70k on it, and now i have 106k. I think its time to change, i dunno if it was even changed before that.

Well i bought my car with 70k on it, and now i have 106k. I think its time to change, i dunno if it was even changed before that.

Will the car suffer from certain symptoms if the supercharger oil is not changed?

I have 100,000 on mine (bought it with 97) and didn't know that oil had to be changed.

Probably not a problem, but it's easy to do and doesn't cost much. At least check the level and make sure there's still some in there!

I've heard of a VW bug's engine running 70k miles without a single oil change. You can probably guess what happened in the end.

Well, it looks like I get the opportunity to see what the inside of my supercharger looks like. I went down town and ran a few erands and it ran like a top. It was filthy so I gave it a bath and cleaned the engine bay since it looked like one of the plagues of egypt (think locusts, lol) from a recent trip. When I got in and started it the SES light came on I got out and heard the dreaded rocks in the intake sound. I've got a kit coming from Intense, thank goodness it doesn't sound like a complicated procedure.

a bad coupler will not set a SES light. it sounds like you got a sensor wet when you washed the motor down.
Get the code read and let us know what it is!

I wondered about that. Did I screw something up? The Traction control light was on yesterday, but its now off, might that have something to do with it?

Probably not irreversible. Point is you have to read the code and let us know. It is usually the case that washing the engine causes no problems. However - when I do it I cover the alternator, the coil pack, and the electronics on the firewall with aluminum foil scraps.

Albertj

I'll have to call a shop, I don't have access to one. Thanks Mr. Riviera and albertj, I'll get back to you.

Many auto parts stores will read your codes for free, check around before giving a shop $50.

I called around and got prices, I think I'll call oriellys or napa before giving up 80 bucks on something that might be a false alarm.

Okay SES light went out, I tried tracking down a scanner, Carquest and Napa said no, Oriellys was stolen, and Oriellys bought out Checker. Oriellys did give me the name and number of a guy that goes around and scans for a small fee, if it comes back I'll call him, or I may just bite the bullet and buy one. Any way thanks for the help guys.

How did you clean the engine? Sounds like you got ignition wires wet to me, and they will dry off after a few hours... probably a misfire code.

The code should still be in history, even if it's not "active". I'd be curious what the code was.

Well I usually use a garden hose turned way down simply to rinse, mindful of the electronics, but I got lazy and had the water up to high trying to rinse grasshopper carcasses out of the front core support. I know what I did wrong now and swear never to be that stupid again.

I'm still planning on checking the code eventually, I might call my old diesel instructor and see if I can sneak it in the school and use theirs.

Well I was just attempting to change my SC oil and I found it nearly impossible!

You guys are thinking I MUST be some sort of ill equipped moron, well that may be true (the moron part)but I own a small shop and am a ASE Master tech!

My oil has morphed into some sort of goo that defies service, I have now broken from the "proper" method of doing this cold and still , even with the use of a shop grade vacuum siphon and a warm engine I was only able to get a small pile , yes pile sucked out, this stuff has a higher viscosity then the old STP or lucas , unfortunately it seems to be fortified with metal, so I just replaced the little fluid I got out with mobil 1 0W30 and will try again tomorrow.

This is now a challenge !
No I am not interested in or have the moment to pull my car off the road and I realize my snout will eventually have to come off for service, but for now I will bring the car into the shop after a good WOT run and try again.

I wish this forum hosted pics as I have no photobucket acct to show this goo to you.

You should not run 0w30 in the SC. I understand if you are just trying to mix it with the current goo to thin it out a little, but long term get the GM supercharger oil.

It is thick and smells awful coming out, but I never had a problem with my mighty-vac and some time. It does travel slow, but I had it emptied in about two or three minutes.

98inSFl wrote:

I wish this forum hosted pics as I have no photobucket acct to show this goo to you.

Try www.imageshack.us you can host pictures without an account.

I'm guessing it's likely that nobody ever checked or changed the SC oil, and some of it has leaked out through the bearings, and the rest is cooked. Hopefully the 0W30 mixes in enough to make it move again!

It could very well be that someone previous to you did put something like STP molasses in it and now it will take some thinning out, to get it all out of there and finally replace with the correct fluid.
Just because the car sat forever should not mean that the viscosity of synthetic oil has turned into goo. Someone has been in there before and you may find the only way to be comfortable with it, is a basic removal, cleaning and reinstall.
Not very hard to do.
And while you have it off put a new coupler in it for peace of mind (if it doesn't need a coupler then defer it) and use some Permatex "Anaerobic Gasket Maker" between the aluminum mating surfaces (GM recommended stuff)
And to answer one of your previous questions, the SC does not need to be timed or indexed from the motor, crank or cam in any way. It is totally independent of the engine and produces boost constantly. Unless it is unloaded by the boost by-pass valve during certain operating parameter's, so does not need indexing at all. Just remove and reinstall.
One other thing you may consider is purchasing a used set of FSM's (Factory Service Manuals) if you plan on keeping the car.
They have become invaluable to most of us.
They are available used on EBay Motors almost all the time. I think I recently copied a link to the "For Sale" Section on here for a 3 book set for the 98 Riv pretty cheap.
You need to look at EBay Motors and then look at Parts and Accessories and then Manuals drop down tabs. have seen them as cheap as $30.00 up to $70.00. Keep your eyes open for the lesser expensive ones, they are well worth it.

you may be better off just pulling the snout off and cleaning it out with brake cleaner.
it's really not that hard to remove. the only thing in the way is the alternator, which is held on by like 4 bolts.

deekster_caddy wrote:

You should not run 0w30 in the SC. I understand if you are just trying to mix it with the current goo to thin it out a little, but long term get the GM supercharger oil.

It is thick and smells awful coming out, but I never had a problem with my mighty-vac and some time. It does travel slow, but I had it emptied in about two or three minutes.

I only want to thin it and try every few days, no problem buying the right stuff but fear this was a existing problem when I got the car, this supercharger always has sounded like growley bearings, no change since I first fired it up and started body restoration 5 yrs ago. I now have 3000 miles more on her.

Thick? 3 minutes? Wow I wish! I got 15 min trying with a huge hand operated vacuum pump like this!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B000JFJM14/ref=dp_image_0?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive

This car has never been tinkered with the cap had never been off , this has just gone gooey, yes I know snout removal is the only real option but there is no point pulling it , replacing the coupler and putting it back on while its growling and throwing metal flake off of something in there, I will attempt to clean it up without removal and seek a junkyard snout to clean up or rebuild and be prepared
As for manuals , I have Alldata and can get all the technical stuff from there but as a community I have the confidence that someone here has the hands on experience that no book can give.

I have owned several 3.8SC cars but never actually drove/adopted them, also my customer base seems to simply not include any SC cars so I have no long term knowledge on the finer points I hope to get from you guys.

what year is your car?

Rickw said "And to answer one of your previous questions, the SC does not need to be timed or indexed from the motor, crank or cam in any way. It is totally independent of the engine and produces boost constantly. Unless it is unloaded by the boost by-pass valve during certain operating parameter's, so does not need indexing at all. Just remove and reinstall."

I was referring to the gears between the rotors as I have never removed a snout...yet.

I have a 98 with 48,000 miles