FAQ: Programming a New Keyless Entry Remote

Jumper the data line connector (DLC) terminal 8 to terminal 4.
Close all of the doors.
Turn ON the ignition switch (The door will cycle to LOCK).
Press and hold the following buttons on one of the transmitters:

* LOCK, and
* UNLOCK (After a 30 second delay, the doors will lock and unlock.)

In order to program extra transmitters, repeat Step 5.

when I try this it cycles to lock unlock, but never finds the fobs ?? any help ? as to why?

When i got one replacement for my car a long time ago i had the exact same problem and out of frustration I brought it to the dealer for programming with a GM Tech 2.
I forget what they charged me, but it worked. I know it cost more to program it than it did to buy a used one on EBay.
But I did not have the benefit of this site to ask questions at the time.
So, I'm sorry to say I don't have an answer other than to go to the dealer.
Sorry

maximum wrote:

Quote :

Jumper the data line connector (DLC) terminal 8 to terminal 4.
Close all of the doors.
Turn ON the ignition switch (The door will cycle to LOCK).
Press and hold the following buttons on one of the transmitters:

* LOCK, and
* UNLOCK (After a 30 second delay, the doors will lock and unlock.)

In order to program extra transmitters, repeat Step 5.

when I try this it cycles to lock unlock, but never finds the fobs. any help as to why?

It cycles to lock when you turn the key, or double-cycles after 30 seconds of holding down both buttons on the keyfob?

ALSO: Are the FCC ID numbers on the back of the fobs the same as the original?

I'll have to try this again with an old remote i have after replacing the battery again and see what happens.
But up to this point I've had no luck in the past with this procedure either.

BTW: The FCC ID numbers on all mine are exactly the same.

maximum wrote:

Jumper the data line connector (DLC) terminal 8 to terminal 4.
Close all of the doors.
Turn ON the ignition switch (The door will cycle to LOCK).
Press and hold the following buttons on one of the transmitters:

* LOCK, and
* UNLOCK (After a 30 second delay, the doors will lock and unlock.)

In order to program extra transmitters, repeat Step 5.

when I try this it cycles to lock unlock, but never finds the fobs ?? any help ? as to why?

You have to press the lock and unlock buttons at about exactly the same time, which is a neat trick if you can do it and impossible if you have chunky fingers. Nothing will happen for about 30 seconds, then the locks will cycle.

Albertj

maximum wrote:

so theres no way I can program the key fobs to work with my riviers without taking it to someone that has a techll ?

If you tried the instructions and could not get them to work then you need to find someone with a techII. If you have not tried the instructions yet, repeated asking is unliely to be effective.

Also - be sure the batteries in the remote(s) are in fact good and that you indeed have the correct remotes for your Riv.

Albertj

Rickw wrote:

I'll have to try this again with an old remote i have after replacing the battery again and see what happens.
But up to this point I've had no luck in the past with this procedure either.

BTW: The FCC ID numbers on all mine are exactly the same.

Actually, I was quizzing Maximum about this. But you're right, the FCC ID number have to be the same ones the car was built for... There are millions of identical-looking remotes out there, but the RFA in each car only accepts a certain FCC ID.

Another thing, Rick, don't bother with the old remote. Replacing the battery on a remote that has already been programmed to the car would only require re-synchronizing, not reprogramming. Plus, if you go into programming mode, you'll wipe out the settings for the other existing remotes...

maximum wrote:

I have a 97, and got 2 new key fobs, but can't get the car to find them, tryed 2 different methods and neither worked, Butt, my drivers side electric lock isn't working, could this have something to do with it ??

I hope your not expecting a new key fob to fix a broken electric drivers side door lock.? That's not gonna happen.

Over my way Auto Zone had a neat fob tester attached to a selection of battery's ...

I don't have the old remotes, didn't get them with the car, a friend had a couple from his Park ave that he gave me to try

make sure you counted the pins in the DLC right.

apology for my earlier error.

Albertj

See post # 6 in this thread:

The remotes for a :
96-99 Riv, PA, Lesabre or Bonneville are the same. Or at leat thats what I remember that I determined when looking on ebay.

Verify the FCC ID Code on the back of the remote is:KOBUT1BT.
If the code is different it wont work



Bert

the remotes do have this code on the back KOBUT1BT

maximum wrote:

the remotes do have this code on the back KOBUT1BT

That's the one... Mine, the 2 originals and 2 more I've bought off of eBay, read:

GM/UTA 25628814
FCC ID KOBUT1BT
CANADA 1983 101 393

The only thing I can reiterate is what Albert said about pressing both buttons simultaneously.
Oh, and you didn't answer my question about which lock-cycle(s) you're getting...

All 3 of my remotes for my 98 are 25678792. When programming the remotes, they must all be done at the same time. Also, it is very important to remove the jumper wire BEFORE you turn off the ignition, otherwise, the programming is erased.

sorry, it cycles to unlock, when I put in the jumper, not to lock ! nothing when I press both buttons on the fob

maximum wrote:

sorry, it cycles to unlock, when I put in the jumper, not to lock ! nothing when I press both buttons on the fob

Did you read my post above? Try it again. Get in the car and close both doors. Jumper the DLC. Turn the ignition switch to on. The door locks will cycle. Hold the Unlock and Lock buttons down on one of the remotes. You might have to hold them for 20-30 seconds before you hear the door locks cycle again. Repeat for any other remotes you wish to program.

IMPORTANT!! REMOVE THE JUMPER. Then shut the ignition and test your remotes.

Eldo wrote:

GM/UTA 25628814
FCC ID KOBUT1BT
CANADA 1983 101 393

Is the GM / UTA number supposed to be the same on all of them.?
Mine are different.
Yet have the same FCC ID #

Rickw wrote:

Eldo wrote:

GM/UTA 25628814
FCC ID KOBUT1BT
CANADA 1983 101 393

Is the GM / UTA number supposed to be the same on all of them.?
Mine are different.
Yet have the same FCC ID #

Not sure Rick, all of mine are 25678792. Other numbers are the same as above.

I think maybe the GM # indicates it is unique to your car, otherwise everyone that has one with the FCC ID KOBUT1BT would work on every Riviera, as we all seem to have the same FCC #.
I don't know, just speculating.

Rickw wrote:

I think maybe the GM # indicates it is unique to your car, otherwise everyone that has one with the FCC ID KOBUT1BT would work on every Riviera, as we all seem to have the same FCC #.
I don't know, just speculating.

GM number is just the part number; think of the FCC ID as a 'type' code. So - to make them "unique to your car" you have to program them. If they are the right type, they can be programmed.

I wonder if maximum had/has an aftermarket alarm installed. If so all bets are off for now, until the wiring is restored to stock assuming the MALL (or is it the BCM tht runs the locks?) is not damaged. MIght have to find a TechII and run the diagnostics on the culprit module? not sure...

Albertj

no I thought about the aftermarket alarm or start /entry, and checked. There's nothing aftermarket there.....yet !

maximum wrote:

no I thought about the aftermarket alarm or start /entry, and checked. There's nothing aftermarket there.....yet !

I replaced my BCM once, when stuff quit working right. I had already repaired it (cold solder joint - easy fix) but it failed a second time.

Albertj

whats the BCM ???

maximum wrote:

whats the BCM ???

Body Control Module