FAQ: Fuel Pump - General Questions, Compatibility & Troubleshooting

Does anyone know , what the flow is ... on a stock pump...?
I seen on ebay, someone selling HFFS fuel pumps... has anyone tried
these pumps.....?.....
I was thinking on a Walbro pump......does anyone know the part #
for a '96 Rivi application.....? supercharged...

I'm not sure exactly what the stock pump flows but I wanna say about 210-220gph for the supercharged (which is a lot). Unless you are using bigger injectors and running E85 and stuff like that where you need a lot more fuel, I'd probably keep the stock. If you need a replacement pump regardless, besides stock I'd spend a little more and get the racetronix pump. It's basically a walbro pump that supports the factory venturi pump function and is swappable into the original assembly without much trouble. IMO ebay fuel parts would be a little too iffy.

I have a fuel leak if I fill the tank I first thought it was from the filler neck but it was not so I pulled the acces cover in the trunk and this is what I found. I have a couple questions there are three lines going to the tank buit only 2 are conected the center one has no line should it? second I had a problem stalling out after a long drive it acted like it was running out of gas so I changed the fuel filter it was very bad it actualy had a bunch of silt looking at the fuel pump does it look bad eneough to let a ton of dirt in?

https://s745.photobucket.com/albums/xx93/elh21566/

Here are the pics

From those pictures, the top of your gas tank looks rusted out. Rivieras have plastic gas tanks, but metal fuel pump retaining "tabs" and a metal retaining ring. Both of these parts are prone to rust. You can easily purchase a retaining ring, but if the tabs are rusting out, then that is a big problem. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE the ring if everything looks completely rusted. You will not be able to replace it if you do. The only fix for this is a replacement tank or leave it alone and hope everything is work fine.This was a really bad design on the top of these tanks. Stainless steel or all plastic would have resolved this problem.

I had similar problems with one of my Rivieras, and now I am in need of a tank. Hopefully you do not, but the pictures seem to indicate that you do.

The other think I can think of is rust in the fuel line or the fuel rails. Every thing make look fine from the outside, but may be rusting from within. The fuel pump filter is unable to keep all of the rust from destroying the pump since most of the rust is so fine.

Also, as Derek previously mentioned, you may have other fuel related problems as well.

Are you using the cheepie pumps or delco?

My gas tank retaining rings are rusted out. I installed 3 metal tabs (about 3" long) that attach to the trunk opening above the fuel tank access hole and "push down" on the top of the fuel pump. I seaedl the pump with ultra grey sealant and to my surprise it works really well... no leaks at all.

I'm on goin down I 40 and my car shuts off, all electronics still working. All Guages read fine (including vaccum and oil pressure), no check engine light, but the riv struggled to start again. It would start, chuckle, and slowly shut back off. After waiting a few mintues, it started up fine and drove a few more miles down the road before doing the same thing, at which time I called a tow truck. Is this likely my fuel pump? I replaced the fuel filter a few months ago so Im certain thats not the problem. Thanks!

When it's happening, when you turn the key on (power/run position but not to crank) do you hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds?

deekster_caddy wrote:

When it's happening, when you turn the key on (power/run position but not to crank) do you hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds?

Yes, when I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump. In fact, I just tried to start it and it idled just fine. Wishful thinking says take it out for a drive but I have a strong feeling it will cut off again in an inconveanent place. Is it possible that my fuel pump is on its last limb of life but not quite dead? My car has 120k miles now and I have ran the tank dry on 2 occasions.

Usually if a fuel pump goes out, it won't restart easily. I just went through this on a different 3800 car and the pump was very loud when it did work, and when it didn't work, it wouldn't start working again until the next day.

But more likely, if it's dying while you are driving, it's not the fuel pump unless it quit completely.

What else could cause it to cut off theb? Possibly something electrical or ignition related?

rivman96 wrote:

What else could cause it to cut off theb? Possibly something electrical or ignition related?

yep. Crank or Cam position sensor are more likely to fail when hot, and allow restarts later.

If it's not the Cam or Crank sensors, it could be the ignition switch also. I had the same problem, however mine never "sputtered" when I tried to restart it....it just wouldn't fire (no spark). I messed with it for 2 weeks until I found out what it was. In your case, given the "sputtering" upon restart, I'd go with the CMP or CKP.

Didn't I read here or in the FSM that a failing Camshaft Position Sensor will trip a MIL and code where a failing Crankshaft Sensor will not.?

Rickw wrote:

Didn't I read here or in the FSM that a failing Camshaft Position Sensor will trip a MIL and code where a failing Crankshaft Sensor will not.?

You've definitely seen it on here...
It seems like cam sensors always set codes, but when his crank sensor was going out, Mr.Riviera's words were, "very rarely it would misread the sensor enough times to set the CEL/SES light. (P0336)".

So with my recent episodes of stalling for no apparent reason and the fact that I have 100k + miles. I should just replace it, even if I do not know if it is the problem.
The car stalled once on me at low RPM's each of the last 3 times I've been out with it.
When i attempt a restart it takes quite a bit of cranking before it will start up. But does start.

Without any other intfo I'd say crank sensor. If you have not replaced yours yet, you're due. With a little poking around maybe its the ignition switch but in order to confirm that you neet to backprobe some NOID lights in to the injector harness and see what has power when it quits and won't restart. Bad ig switch won't allow power-up of the PCM enable.

And by the way get a good CK sensor (Delco or Delphi)-- if you don't you'll be replacing it again in 1-2 years.

Albert

When it comes to sensors especially i always go the MFG.
I'll order from Monsterparts and see what they send me, Delco. Delphi or what.

Now I have to gather up all the long screws and the extension to my 30 year old Snap-On Harmonic Balancer Puller. From what i understand this can be fitted to work on the 3800. I do have the luxury of going down the street and look at his kit and just buy the bolts and bits I need for myself.

Yeah, it's kind of a "diagnosis of exclusion," CK sensor and ignition switch are a couple of known failures that won't (usually) set a code.

Albertj

albertj wrote:

Yeah, it's kind of a "diagnosis of exclusion," CK sensor and ignition switch are a couple of known failures that won't (usually) set a code.

Albertj

And of course, both are a PITA to replace...

Rick before you start blaming sensors we should return to a stock tune and see if you still have the same issue. But I didn't mention any of that because I didn't realize you were stalling, and this is RivMan's issue...

I was wondering if its possible to use a aftermarket out of tank fuel pump instead of the stock pump? one could use say a bosch and install it outside the tank behind the oem fuel filter and leave the fuel sender in the tank. is this possible? i know that you could instal a high performance pump,but that would mean installing a high perf regulator. a good fuel pump for say a Acura legend is rated for 40 to 50 lbs and you woudnt have to use a high perf regulator....

I'm no authority on fuel systems but I would say there are only two ways to go that makes sense. If you are going to be keeping the car to a level that can be supported by 65lb injectors or so, just swap a PRJ's racetronix-walbro pump. 255lph can get you pretty far. If you need or just want more for the hell of it, I'd figure out how to eliminate the in-tank pump or just keep it soley to keep the jug filled and use the inline as the actual fuel pump. That'd require a little custom work on the sender but nothin too tricky.

Maybe Alex or turbo400sbc will chime in here since they set up inline's on rivs.