Write-Up: 95sc Changing the coupler in an Eaton m62

Actron cp9145.

Well there ya go then   haha
I'll just grit my teeth and pull the trigger on the next decent price I can find

HELP!

I'm in the middle of doing this job right now. Everything was going smooth until I got to the throttle body bracket. One of the two front screws is stripped. I can't get it off. I'm getting ready to take my grinder to it and cut the head off.

Can I get by with only one screw holding the throttle body bracket down on the front end?

I need help asap!

bigROC209 wrote:

HELP!

I'm in the middle of doing this job right now.  Everything was going smooth until I got to the throttle body bracket.  One of the two front screws is stripped.  I can't get it off.  I'm getting ready to take my grinder to it and cut the head off.

Can I get by with only one screw holding the throttle body bracket down on the front end?

I need help asap!

pictures, bro

What kind of screw is it? Can you use the easy take out bits with the blades inside to grip it?

Grinder should be last resort

I just went ahead and ground the head off. I was able to unscrew the rest of the bolt with some pliers. What a pain but the S/C is finally off now.

Boy, the inside sure is dirty.

I can already smell the S/C oil and I don't even have the nose off yet.

I would've been done already if it weren't for that damn stripped bolt and the fact that it started raining.

When I unbolted the throttle body from the S/C, some red fluid spilled out. It looked like Marvel Mystery Oil or trans fluid.

Is that normal? Was that just some S/C oil that made it to the TB side of the supercharger?

Now I can't get the bolts off the nose of the S/C. 1/4" drive adapters are no match for these bolts. I just snapped the two 1/4" drive adapters I had.

On my way to O'reilly for a 10mm socket that'll go directly on my 3/8" drive socket wrench.

What a day. Did I mention it's raining?

Red fluid could have been antifreeze. A little bit of coolant is routed through the TB to prevent icing.

I need help guys!

I changed the coupler, cleaned the throttle body, and wiped the inside of the S/C the best I could. I put the S/C back on, bolted it down, and buttoned everything up.

The rattling noise is gone and a whole lot of power was restored to my car. It's my girlfriend's daily driver and she was blown away and how much better the car is running.

It still is running smooth and strong but the "Service Engine Soon" light came on today.

Is my 95 OBDI or OBDII

95 is the rare Obd1.5 basically an Obd 1 brain with Obd 2 wiring/plug.

Thanks for the quick reply.

I'll go have the code pulled tomorrow.

That's what we're here for haha

Riv long and prosper!

bigROC209 wrote:

I need help guys!

I changed the coupler, cleaned the throttle body, and wiped the inside of the S/C the best I could.  I put the S/C back on, bolted it down, and buttoned everything up.  

The rattling noise is gone and a whole lot of power was restored to my car.  It's my girlfriend's daily driver and she was blown away and how much better the car is running.  

It still is running smooth and strong but the "Service Engine Soon" light came on today.  

Is my 95 OBDI or OBDII

I'm going to bet since it popped up after the work its an EGR pintle position code. Probably a small leak on the troublesome flex pipe that goes from the exhaust to the side of the blower. .. But see what the code reads as.

Quick question, I'm taking today to fix my m62 coupler issue. Right from the start though I'm running into a problem removing the boost solenoid. How does this thing come off? There's only two bolts in back of it from what I can tell but they seem to be torqued on for dear life. Wondering if these are even what's holding it on???

 

This would be the guy in question

Got bolts off after removing egr flexpipe, I guess the real question is how does this actuator swivel mechanism come out

Looks to just pull?

Isnt the hole holding the actuator oblong and get wider at one end? I had mine off a few times but cant remember exactly. It does just pull out of there though. I think you slide it to the wider end and pull out.

From your last picture posted, you would push it directly down, and then out.

You're correct sir. That's what I ended up finding out. I was assuming that the shaft would come out as well but find it remains in the charger housing instead. Boy howdy the plumbing on this is crizazy on your first time doing this job.

Yupp. Its a bit confusing, especially because everything seems delicate and the use of excessive force is a bit unnerving! The shaft is held in by the bypass plate underneath. I took the plate out on mine and took the shaft out so I could clean real good in there. The screws are quite easy to strip so I dont recommend it to anyone who doesnt have a backup Supercharger ready though!

If you ever get a chance to grab one from a junkyard or something, its cool to just completely disassemble one! They come apart and go back together pretty easy after you lose the fear of breaking something. They're pretty tough!

I was actually just considering the very thing! This of course being my first car to get into taking apart and working on myself, what a choice right? Haha like my brother in law who drives several old toyotas with the 20 and 22r engines stopped in and said, "boy you're really getting a taste of everything with this engine huh" haha

Only remaining question of tonight, this rotor edge look ok to you guys? I only ask because of that sort of stripped looking edge of red?

Nothing wrong with those rotors. They look in good shape. The edges are normal.

Good to know! Don't want my hypochondria to spill into my car world too haha

I read on another site (that sells SC parts) that running for a "while" with the coupler rattling will lead to SC bearing, etc damage and then will require a rebuilt SC.

I thought that the rattling was really at worst just an audible irritation and was not an actual wear/maintenance risk? Anyone know if there is a risk to the SC if one leaves the coupler rattling for a "while"?

Mine has been rattling for about 6 months or a bit more, and I do plan to change it out. But since I had heard originally that it wasn't a big deal (other than again, irritating to listen to), I had put replacing it on the bottom of my long to-do list.

I can bump it up in priority if it is risking damage, but it would be nice to know either way.

Thanks
Al

Well, my coupler was bad and my bearing is bad. Not sure if it is related at all though. There was also a period of time where the supercharger had no oil in it (from when I got the car to when I visited AA). Personally I blame the lack of oil for the bearing but the coupler may have had something to do with it as well. Who knows.....

IMO bad coupler shouldn't really make any particular difference on either the pack or needle bearings.  Its all rotation on the same axis and regardless to a tiny moment of free rotation, any hammering effect is in rotation direction, not side loading or in/out.

Now no oil, or oil never changed, or moisture in there, lack of use, etc... sure that can make a difference.  

For everyone's info, the bearings in a SC:
-Snout bearings: a set on each end of the "stick" that has your SC pulley on one end, and the 3 pegs on the other that mate with the coupler. These can go bad if crap/water gets in the snout seal, no oil, snout overspins/gets too hot.  On a running car with SC oil and a working snout seal, not common to fail.
-Pack bearings: the single bearing set for each rotor. These literally sit in the flat spacer that has the gears on one side, and your rotor lobes on the other.  These very rarely die, since even when not in use has the SC oil up against them.  I've personally only seen these bad on a rotor pack that has spent some time separated from its snout or sat on a shelf for awhile.
-Needle bearings: Also called case bearings.  These are cup like bearings that get pressed into the supercharger casing.  When assembled, the ends of the bars your rotors spin with stick in them.  These are the most common to fail, and often are the only bearing you will ever need to change.  The reason they are a common fail point is that under boost the rotors want to shift back in the pack and apart.  The shape of the rotors and pressures of air on each side of the rotors makes this end the side that wants to separate.  Add to that the very slight "in and out" motion applied from the entire rotor set wanting to slide back into the pack, and you can see that these bearings are under stress from a number of angles.