FAQ: Engine/Transmission Motor Mounts

I ended up having to remove the window weld from the front mount. It was causing too much vibration. I could be idleing in drive and move the steering wheel left or right and it was causing something to rattle very loudly. It almost sounded like a heat shield, but couldn't tell because I didn't have a helper to keep the brake on. It went away when I removed the window weld. I am glad that I didn't prep the bushing that well because it all came out in one piece. I don't think it would have come out while on the car because it did take some force to remove. Haven't gotten the chance to change the rear mount yet, so I am sure that isn't helping.

http://www.partstrain.com/store/details/Buick/Riviera/DEA/Motor_and_Transmission_Mount/1997/Base/6_Cyl_3-dot-8L/W0133-1889554.html?location=Rear

is this the rear trans/engine? anyone seen any better prices ? need to get one next week!

That's it, but you don't need to replace the entire bracket, just the mount. Amazon carries the mount: Anchor 3065

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B001Q8D8RC/ref=aw_d_ol

so the amazon one is not just an insert?

If it's just for the insulator, those are good prices. If they include the bracket, it's an even better price.

You only really need the insulator. Bracket is reusable.

yeah, but if i fill the insert with window weld will it still fit inside the bracket? i have one day to fix the car at a freinds house with a lift, so if i have to pay a little extra for the bracket so be it..

The insulator must be removed from the mount bracket to fill, so if you order it with mount assembled, you'll need to spend extra time removing it from the bracket and reinstalling.

Check the write-up for procedures on filling the mount:
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t6797p105-write-up-filled-rear-motor-transmission-mount

Remember, you need to let the stuff dry for a few days before installing. I waited a week. There's an activator primer you can use to speed it up, but I didn't use it.

ok, i remember that post, they all filled it before putting it on the car. I actually filled all mine on the car, but i could not get to the rear mount. I will just buy the insert and fill it then. I will save a good deal of $.... rock has it for 17.66 and they gave us a 5% discount that ends soon i can use, so 16.77$ before tax and shipping

So do you guys use a jack and a wooden block to lift up the tranny on the pan, or do you jack it up on another part of the trans to get the mount off? This is on my 95. I'm getting a little sick of all of the slamming, and i looked under there today, and i have about half of the rubber in the mount ha!

I used an engine hoist to support the engine/trans from the top side.

You shouldn't jack up by the pan because you could damage it. I've also heard gasket leaks can start from doing it that way.

Ha that's what i figured... My step dad brought up the idea of jacking it up under the pan, after i asked him where he would jack up a transmission not on the pan ha! I do not own a hoist. Is there another place that it could be jacked up from?

There are a couple points around the block that could serve as supports, but they are small and not sure if it is stable. Don't do it if you intend to be under the cradle. If you want to support by the pan, you could try large wooden blocks, like 6x6x12" post. These would at least spread the weight out evenly across the pan.

I did jack it up by the pan before, and started leaks. Don't do it.

You can carefully place a wooden block under the harmonic balancer but risk damaging the balancer too. Better than the oil pan though IMO.

Preferred method is with a hoist from above. If you don't have an engine hoist you can always take the hood off and connect a strap to something above the car (cross-beam in the garage). If you don't have a garage... well one time I built a giant tripod/teepee over the engine compartment out of small trees, then hung a come-along from the top of the tripod.

Quote :

I built a giant tripod/teepee over the engine compartment out of small trees, then hung a come-along from the top of the tripod.

Lol, and I got flack for using wooden blocks in place of jack stands!

AA wrote:

Quote :

I built a giant tripod/teepee over the engine compartment out of small trees, then hung a come-along from the top of the tripod.

Lol, and I got flack for using wooden blocks in place of jack stands!

AA there are some pretty time tested squat racks made out of wood! Wood can be plenty strong when correctly used! I mean look at how many old tools like hammers that were made out of wood! Not to mention foundations of many homes too!

I know. I use wood for lots of jobs, but I've been criticized for it when it comes to supporting heavy loads, like a car or engine. I felt the need to share some with deekster.

I don't think I gave you any flak on the wooden blocks! I'm a big believer in jack stands.

Keep in mind that tripod was only for a 4-banger (from my MGB, 1st car), and I was only 17 at the time. Now I have a hoist and wouldn't do it any other way.

Found driver side front and rear mounts 3065 and 3127, thank goodness, getting them this week, now whst to do with the other two

Just a note about expensive motor & transmission mounts. Had a slight vibration at idle. Nothing major so took my 67,000 mile Riviera to my Buick dealership. How much could it cost? Two weeks in the shop, plus a GM specialist (who knows Riviera’s) flown in from Toronto, resulted in one cracked transmission brace found and custom fabricated, one transmission mount & one engine mount replaced. Forgot the sequence (did post on this site). Got one of the mounts which was the last new old part in North America in a search of all North American GM dealerships, other mount a Buick dealership somewhere in the Midwest, took off a low mileage Riviera they had just received as a trade-in. Bottom line, that very slight vibration while in Park, ran up a bill of more than $4,500, but dealership reduced bill to about $3,000. Joke on me, my Riviera still has a slight vibration when in Park. Motor & Transmissions mounts that meet original specs, basically gone (I used them up) so alternatives will have to be found elsewhere (search this site as alternatives are available).

Other than that, Monday my Riv. gets an outer tie rod replaced and a full inspection of all hoses & belts, plus gasket leaks after its annual 5 month winter garage park. Always concerned stuff will dry out because it is not driven much.

A local car nut friend put me in contact with an auto detailing service. This service is booked up for the next 3 weeks. Hopefully, I can get an appointment to have both my autos cleaned & detailed before the end of May (exterior & interior only), (full show quality clean & detail starts at $900 per auto). I might seem lazy to some of you that have space at home to clean & detail your autos, but I am an urban dweller, no place to clean my autos. Add cleaning product expense, plus my time, a charge of $360 for both cars to clean only exterior and interior is a bargain to me.

I'm getting the vibration after doing the hockey Puck mounts. I think I need the right mount and drivers side also

chitown_riv98 wrote:

I'm getting the vibration after doing the hockey Puck mounts. I think I need the right mount and drivers side also

There will be a little more vibration with this mod.nothing you wont get used to tho..

I really don't mind. I was going to replace my belts and thought it would be a good idea to replace that mount you need to mess with to replace the belts

I've never heard of the L/R side mounts going bad. They really don't do much but keep the engine level.

VegasScott wrote:

Okay, I just did my front and rear mounts this weekend with the help of a buddy on the rear mount.

The front trans mount is simple.  It took me about 40 minutes, but the bulk of that time was cutting a piece of 2x4 by hand to use as a "mechanical persuasion tool."     I had every intention of doing a great photo write up on this repair, but I got into a time crunch with an evening out on the town with my wife to celebrate our 13th wedding anniversary.  So, unfortunately, you'll see that I don't have squat for pictures for the rear repair.  Once I got to the rear mount, I had to leave my garage twice... Once to Lowes to get a 24" half inch socket extension. (Of course, they didn't have it, so I had to "erector set" 3 10" extensions.  Once I got the steering rack bolts out, I had to run to Autozone to get a 55 torx head socket for the lower mount bolts.  All in all, it was pretty smooth, and I made the date with the wife.  Which is probably the most important thing if I want to be able to "play" in the garage with the boys...  

I uploaded some pics to photobucket...

...(pics deleted from quote)

A couple of things for those of you that haven't done this yet...  Make sure you have a long enough extension to reach those rack bolts, and make sure you have a 55 Torqx socket.  I used some of the write up from here to help me out BECAUSE THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL IS USELESS.  It's pretty straight forward for the rear, just take off the end links on the sway bar and you can rotate it out of the way to get the old mount out.  The post I read talked about undoing subframe assembly bolts, and that is NOT needed.  It will save you some time.

The car is better, but I have one mount left to check out, and that is the driver's side mount.  The car still has a little vibration at idle, but at least the engine isn't jumping all over the place now when put into gear.  

VegasScott

Found this buried on page 9, and referenced a few times. Could we turn this into a separate write-up that's easier to find?

Hello to everyone 1 of you owners of these magnificent beautiful cars:-) i am n need of some help on finding a ((engine,transmission mount))((front right side)) of the ((engine)) for a ((95Riviera SC)) someone please give me some information on finding this part... my baby is n need of help she needs to get out

I need to ask are there any ((engine , transmission mount))((front right side)) of the engine that's compatible to a 95 Riviera SC ?