FAQ: Horn Problems

albertj wrote:

Supernatural Aspirations wrote:

I just found out that my horn button is bad, the horn will not sound at all. My mechanic has wired a remote horn button for now but is not able to get a OE replacement for the steering wheel. I've never dealt with a horn button that is in the airbag before and when I asked how much a new one would be he just said, "it's not worth the cost". Well this is my baby so to me it is! I was wondering if any one could give me a good idea of what I'm looking at cost wise for a replacement since I have no idea how bad this is. Can U get a used one? Or are there any other companies other than GM that sell something like this?

Contact Ed Morad (MoradPartsCompany.Com) and get a used one the right color.

He has a LeSabre steering column "on sale" now. It comes with the horn/airbag module. I'd be willing to go in on the buying if you wanted to buy it, take the airbag and send me the steering wheel (I plan to have a company in Texas repaint and either re-do the leather or put real wood inlay on it - they do both and I have not decided. What that means though is that I don't care what color the wheel is and I don't care how much of the paint has rubbed off, although I'd prefer it be the '97-'98 "toreador red" color). PM me if you are interested and we will try to work out details with Ed.

Albertj

Albert, did you ever get one shipped to this Co in Texas for wood inlay.????

No, did not complete a deal for a steering wheel. My game plan is to get a spare one, then either stick the spare on my Riv and recover mine *or* recover the spare and swap 'em when its done.

Ed had a beige wheel up, if it is still there I should go for it. Wanted one in toreador red, though, so I don't have any guessing in Texas as to what color it is supposed to be when done.

Albertj

I'll assume your interior is Red.?
And if you don't mind...could you share the name and address of the shop in Texas that will do an Wood Inlay, Sounds sweet.

Also check eBay...

I bought an airbag/horn-button module just to have spare A/C & radio-control buttons, and I suspect that people on eBay don't worry so much about shipping requirements for 'explosives'.


BIG REMINDER:

Don't forget to remove the key and the airbag fuse for at least 20-30 minutes before screwing around with the airbag!

wood steering wheels:

http://craftcustoms.com/

http://craftcustoms.com/images/Make-Model/GM/Buick/Buick_Riviera_1997.JPG

it's a wood overlay - piece of wood bent, split, routed or steam-pressed, finished, and then assembled over the original wheel.

The pic is a wheel out of a G-body Riv.

Albertj

Do you know how much they get for that wheel in the pic.?
That is very nice.
I think that along with matching wood for the Dash, etc would be a real good upgrade for my car, or anyone's car for that matter.

Rickw wrote:

Do you know how much they get for that wheel in the pic.?
That is very nice.
I think that along with matching wood for the Dash, etc would be a real good upgrade for my car, or anyone's car for that matter.

something like 450 for a wood wheel and something like 200-300 to refurbish wheel like new.

steering wheel part number 16759012 (97-99 red) - Monster shows it for $215.- including the leather wrap. 16228494 is the switch pak w/o airbag module, $174.94 from Monster. An airbag module with accessories (horn, radio switches, misc. screws is 16228494, is ~$580.- from Monster (ow!)

So the cheapest way to get a stock refinished wheel is not to get a refinished wheel - just buy it new and swap the stuff. If you want a wood wheel, the refurbishing is the way to go, with the temporary spare steering wheel swap I posted about earlier.

Albertj

Thanks for doing the homework, yeah things can get pricey real quick.
But if i were to do the interior woodgrain dash kit and send this shop in Texas a sample of the wood and they could match or come close on the steering wheel, that would look very nice in the interior.

So when i first got the car the horn didnt work. So I traced it back to the relay and found it was missing. Down to the parts store for a new relay and now the horn stays on all the time. So thats why it wasnt there. Anyone know where to go from here?

Unfortunately, that means you either have a short to ground between the relay and the steering wheel, or else one of the pressure-pads on the airbag has failed, making the connection at all times.

To find out which it is, pull the airbag fuse and let the car sit for a half-hour. Then unscrew the airbag assy and disconnect the non-yellow connectors. Plug the relay back in, and if the horns still honk, it's a short in the system, if they are quiet, you need to start shopping eBay or wrecking yards for a matching airbag unit.

Someone on here might have a spare to sell as well - what color is it?

Good luck.

i have a tan wheel. huh this sounds like it could be trouble

95rivy wrote:

i have a tan wheel. huh this sounds like it could be trouble

not necessarily - you just need to deal with a recycler who knows his cars. The airbag assemblies on a number of 95-99 Buicks were interchangeable; on the Riv it just means you probably need to more the radio/heater steering wheel switches from the old one to the new one - a manoever that's a little tedious but not that big a deal I am told.

Donor cars would include the LeSabre or Skylark with same style steering wheel.

Albertj

hey i got a question, i don't have a problem with my horn, it works fine, its more of an annoyance tho;

is it just my riviera or are ALL horns sensitive? i mean like, on the steering wheel there is this specific super sensitive sweet spot area where i would BARELY tap or touch it with my finger, and the horn will sound. sometimes i accidentally do it and other drivers around me will look at me like, wth who is this guy honking at?! lol

Mine's not that sensitive, but it's all relative. Yours may sensitive to your preference, or the switch may have become more touchy over time. Question: how often do you use your horn, intentionally?

intentionally? never use it

LaFlare don't feel bad my horn is the same way and I get the same weird looks. Brushing my hand across the steering wheel will set it off. My horn has even gone off on its own with no one in the car. I think its a wear issue, but then again I use my horn rather frequently. Damn Jersey drivers! Lol

The horn on my 95 would just go off occasionally. Usually at 4 AM, never during the day! Garage kept. The fuse finally blew. When I go to put a new one in, the horn stays on and keeps blaring. Anyone else have similar issues? Suggestions? Other than leave the fuse out.

Well, you have 3 more options to look at.....

1.) The horn relay located in the underhood relay center (RF of engine compartment).
2.) If you have the factory Anti-Theft, the Remote Accessory Control Module could be acting stupid (in the trunk).
3.) The steering wheel horn switch is bad.

The RACM and the Steering Wheel Horn Switch do nothing but ground the circuit, which energizes the relay and supplies power to the horns. Does the steering wheel "push in" ok for horn operation? Maybe the Relay is worn out and randomly powering the horns. Or, the RACM is being stupid.....
BTW.....Welcome to the Forum

Thank you for the advice and the welcome to the forum. When I replace the fuse under the hood the horn starts blaring instantly, The pad on the steering wheel feels "very firm". Not sure how it felt before the issue came up as my wife usually drives it. I'll throw the good fuse in and see if pushing on the horn inside turns it off. If so that would pretty much indicate that the switch in the steering wheel is bad. Relays are fairly cheap and I'll throw a new one in tomorrow. If thats not the fix is there a way to check the sterring wheel horn switch without pulling the steering wheel? I'm not aware of any modules in the trunk. I would imagine that it is located behind the trim panels and will have a look see tomorrow when I get back from NAPA with the relay. Can the RACM be tested?

Before you actually buy a relay, take one from a different location and see if it cures your problem. This way, you can eliminate the relay as the culprit.

The RACM is located on the passenger side of the trunk I believe by the speaker (underneath the shelf). Maybe someone else with a '95 can confirm this. Do you have a keypad for the car with a factory alarm? If you do, then yes there is a RACM back there. There really is no way to test it, but I'm sure by looking at the connector end views and what-not we can figure out a way to test that particular wire.

Are you familiar with testing relay circuits at all? With a Volt Meter we can test circuits from the relay to see which direction to actually go. Try switching the relay first, then let us know.

Abaddon is right. The RACM is located near the rightrear speaker under the parcel shelf.Lay on your back in the trunk and look up. It will have two connectors plugging in to it. Try unplugging to see if your horn turns off. You will loose your keyless functions when this is unplugged, but will be able to eliminate this part if it doesn't turn off the horn. Keyless functions will be restored upon reconnecting harnesses, so don't stress about unplugging it.

Hey all,

Another slightly irritating problem (yeah I know...thats all I talk about when I'm here). Before I start, I would like to state that I have read all I can find about horn problems with these cars on this website, so I think I have a slightly 'different' problem.

The other night, temperature reached -5 degrees F here in Pittsburgh - My car did NOT enjoy this and had a hard time starting. At the end of the day, I went to pick of my girlfriend and besides the usual idiots, I had a pretty close cut off. So naturally, I laid on the horn and got no response. Tonight I got a chance to look at it and the fuse was blown - no matter. I took the fuse beside it (flash-to-pass, 20A as well) stuck it in there and went to try the horns. They sounded really really weak, then the high pitch stopped, then it quit altogether. It blew that new fuse as well.

Could the semi-extreme cold have put some kind of stress on the horns themselves enough to pull too much power and blow the fuse every time it's used? The actual switch in the steering wheel has to be good, as well as the relay, seeing as I honked when I wanted it to, just weak and then quit.. When I did this testing it was about 17F out and the car was warm. I'm a little stumped at the moment, anyone have any ideas? Again, I'm thinking it's possibly just worn out/cold stressed horns.

Thanks for any input!

-Andrew Z

It's either the horns, or some bad wiring somewhere. Yes, a bad horn can pop the fuse, if it's shorted the right way....

Just replace the horns... if you get late '90s GM horns form the pick and pull you should be able to bolt them right onto your factory brackets.

If not, you can get new for ~20 a pair, I'd get "freeway blaster" or other loud ones because anymore people drive about with stereos blasting and windows up.

Albertj

My horns do pretty much the same thing. I think the horn button on my old steering wheel got stuck on and they must have sounded for an unknown amount of time so now they just make a really weak sound and blow the fuse after some seconds. My prognosis is the horns are blown. I know my switch and relay are fine.