FAQ: Horn Problems

At the underhood relay center there is a horn relay find a relay at junkyard and replace reinstall fuse. If still has a problem let us know. FYI also has a 20amp fuse underhood relay center Marked HORN.

Yeah, that fuse was missing a few days ago. Thats when I put a fuse in there and then over 24 hours later the horn decided to just constantly go off. Just one long never ending honk until I ran out there and pulled the fuse. I went back out today, put the fuse back in and no horn now.

The relay I can try, however I traded it out with the air conditioner compressor relay which is right above the horn relay and still nothing.

When you say nothing I guess you mean horn will not blow with horn button? My car you really have to push hard to get the horn to blow. Leave other relay in to see if it goes off again without pushing on the button.

Bushytea wrote:

Yeah, that fuse was missing a few days ago. Thats when I put a fuse in there and then over 24 hours later the horn decided to just constantly go off. Just one long never ending honk until I ran out there and pulled the fuse. I went back out today, put the fuse back in and no horn now.

The relay I can try, however I traded it out with the air conditioner compressor relay which is right above the horn relay and still nothing.

Mine did that several times, in the middle of the night it would start blowing...
It finally got where it would not stop blowing.

Bert

Not having a horn would bug me--I think a horn is a safety item, not as important as brakes but still useful.

So - not in any particular order:

My first guess is the computer that receives commands from the remotes (that did not come with your car) is not working properly - Previous Owner (PO) probably had this problem and yanked the fuse to get around it. And maybe, just maybe, did not include the remotes so it'd take you some time to figure out what was up. Not sure how likely this is. I kinda doubt this is broken, and I suspect if you want remotes you can get a couple used ones and program them.

Another item could be the horn switch. This is a membrane switch in the air bag cover. You can get a new airbag cover, but it will be gray and have to be painted (which actually is no big deal). So one thing to do is check to find out if the horn switch is bad. Maybe PO only mashed the switch in one place when blowing the horn?

Another is that there is a contact ring in the steering column. There may be a short or intermittent short across that ring. For some reason I think a problem with the horn switch or that contact ring is more likely than not. Just put 'stuck horn switch' into Google, you'll get tens of thousands of hits...

Less likely but still possible is a wiring problem in the steering column. That is, the contact ring is OK but there is another wiring problem. If for instance the car was in a wreck and reassembled but the wires were not routed so well. Or the airbags went off...

...time to get the FSM, do you think? might help with the wiring diagrams and component locations...

Albertj

Alright, that sounds great. I read about having to replace the air bag cover but hope to find something other than that wrong.

On removing the airbag, what is the recommended procedure for disarming the airbags? I know on my camaro you unhook the battery for like 15 min, then pull fuse and your safe. Is it the same for the Rivs?

I guess you pushed hard on the horn button all over and it won't sound mine you have to push so hard you think it is broke. If you have an owner's manual you can set off the alarm and see if it works and disarm it with key. You can test at horn relay for the horn button. With horn depressed check for voltage at terminal 85 to 86. Left side of relay top and bottom terminals. 85 top is hot from fuse all the time. If no voltage horn button, slip ring, Spring Loaded Contact, or wiring to them are the problem at steering wheel.

Hey guys, I know I am bringing it from the dead but have someone interested in buying the car but need the horn to work.

When I go between the two terminals on the bottom I do get some voltage around the .3-.5 range. Then goes away after releasing the horn button.

However my relays and such are number 1,2,3,4,5. Not with the 85,86,87 etc.. I found a relay on an auto parts site that shows 85 and 86 to be diaganol of each other which would be my 1 and 2 terminals. EVen when I do it that way I still get the .3 - .5 reading when the horn button is pushed.

Maybe this just isn't enough voltage to get the horns to sound? I assume the horns work since they just went off blaring one night.

With horn button pushed, you should be able to read battery voltage across terminals #87 & #30.
I don't know how that correlates to # 1,2,3,4,5, etc.
All I can do is look in the 98 Manual and see what it shows.
Get back to you soon.
Rick

Engine compartment has a 20 amp Maxi-fuse in the fuse block, should be hot at all times.
That feeds what the wiring diagram calls B3 (equals #85) and A3 (equals # 30)
A3 To A1 = #30 to # 87 (which feeds the horns Batt voltage.)
B1 = # 86 of relay and goes to the horn switch.

Summary

A1 = # 87
B1 = # 86
B3 = # 85
A3 = # 30

B3 to B1 is relay coil ( hot when you press horn button.)
A3 to A1 is relay switch side (Hot when relay closed - 12 + Volts direct to horns.)

maybe someone can scan and post the wiring diagram for you, I cannot - Sorry.

Do you have 12v at the horns when you push the strg wheel button? Can you feel the relay click?

Also check for bad grounds at the horns. That can cause low voltage readings if they are corroded or loose.

.3-.5 is no voltage problem in wheel. Right?

Pressing the Horn switch grounds the horn relay. The relay contacts close and apply Battery voltage to the horns.
Low voltage at the horn brush/slip rings does not necessarily mean there is a problem with the switch.
You need to test at the relay or swap relays with a known good one and see what happens.
Even though it's a relatively simple circuit it is made more complicated due to the fact that the RFA (Remote Function Actuator) can also provide a ground to the relay, as it is part of the security system.
The trouble shooting procedure in the book is too long to duplicate here.

He switched relays with one in box before.

Yeah, I switched with the air compressor relay but really not sure if that relay is good either. There is no blower motor so haven't tested the A/C as of yet to know if that relay is good.

I figured that the button is fine due to the fact there is voltage getting to the relay. Wether I test across the two lower terminal or diagonally as stated above. Either way I get that same reading when the button is pushed then down to zero when released.

The horns I know at least make noise since that one night they decided to just start going off on their own in just one long steady noise.

I will check some grounds and such though. Maybe I might need to try another relay?

Thanks!

What made the horns to just go off on their own.?
A stuck relay maybe??

Well when I put the new fuse in (because it was totally missing when I got the car) nothing happened. It was around 24 hours later that the horns just started to blow. Not sure what did it because the horns never went off before that.

How did you stop them?

Pulled the fuse and they stopped.

I would definitely try a NEW relay and see what happens. I don't think they are that expensive.

i have a thread in here about my horn not operating. mine did the same thing it just came on one day and would not stop till i pulled the relay. problem is my actual horn button is stuck. so i just bought a horn button from advance fopr 3 bucks or so and wired it up myself using the hot wire coming off the horn button.

i would say it sounds like your horn button. if replace the relay wit a known good one. manually test the horns to make sure they are okay. that leaves the horn button.

On my 1998 lately I have a horn problem where it is going off by itself while driving & sometimes when I lock the doors with the remote & the horn chirps it keeps blowing until I hit the steering wheel, same result while driving when it goes off. Any ideas how to fix besides removing the fuse.

Seems like the switch in the steering wheel is sticking "on". When you hit the wheel, it turns off.

Is this a easy fix or a major fix?