FAQ: Horn Problems

pull the relay and look at the pins and you should see how it goes, but i think it doesnt matter which way it sits. are you haveing any problems with the horn itself?

Welcome over! You already know mine are both rotated 180deg from yours, don't know if it matters or not.

I forget are the gray the 5 leg or are those the black?

Look at the bottom of the relay. There will be 5 positions labeled and looking at your fuseblock, there are 5 positions labeled. Line it up and you should be fine

My car had issues with the horn ring in the steering wheel. My intermittent horn problems stopped after I R&R'd the wheel to replace the multifunction switch. Of course that's on my '98 but it wasn't very different from my '94 Regal so I can't imagine the '95 Riv is much different either...
Hope this helps
Good luck!

is the horn stuck open( meaning on all the time) or does not work at all? let me know i can tell you the easiest way to fix it. my horn sounded continuously. so i had a decision to make. fix the horn the right way(hundreds of dollars) or go to the local part store and get a horn button and some wire(about $5). i choose the part store fix.

our horn button is 2 copper strips embedded in the air bag. so inorder to fix the problem if it is the switch is to mess with the air bag. so if you have the same problem as me i can tell which wire to cut to wire up your own horn button.

my horn all of a sudden just goes off for no reason....it pisses me off...so I can pull the fuse or relay?

¤DoughBoy¤ wrote:

haahahahhaha

keep honking I'm reloading

oh snap! Karma sucks you shouldn't have said it!

lol...I kno....I was making fun tho....shit was funny....I was seriously laughing....

¤DoughBoy¤ wrote:

my horn all of a sudden just goes off for no reason....it pisses me off...so I can pull the fuse or relay?

Not sure about the fuse but you can look in the owners manual and see if it is just for the horn.

You could just unplug the wiring harness connector from the horn(s)

Bert

I've never had any troubles with my horn. In fact, it's the most sensitive horn I've ever seen. I can take with one finger and press it ever so lightly and get a quiet litte meep out of it. I've been tempted to play songs with it it responds so well.

Hmmm.... Reese, sounds like you might want to consider contacting a dealer (or Ed Morad) to get a repalcement airbag cover.

Albertj

Sometimes the horn switch just sucks. It's not hard to pull the airbag off (disconnect battery and airbag fuse before you do it) and inspect the switch.

My horn would go off at random in the parking lot at work. On my 95 the horn switch is integrated with the air bag. I ended up buying a new air bag (#16753670 Mushroom Interior) back in 2003 and have not had any problems since.

No seriously i had no horn in my 95 so I went out and bought a horn and hooked it up and it just kept blowing. So I disconnected it .. And tried to find a wiring diagram for it.. I then went and found the relay for it, but after 10 minutes it was still hot..What could this be? If I can remember right the guy before me said that he disconnected the horn because it went off from time to time by it self..but now I cant find the guy to ask him....Go figure.... Did anyone ever run into this problem? What could the problem be? Any help would be greatly appericated.....

Thank you very much, Lance

do you have a volt/ohm meter? Autozone or Radio Shack, less than $20. You can use it for a number of things and you most likely will need one to solve this problem.

Because you need to determine if the wire to the horn relay is always on, can't tell by looking. A "continuity tester" might work, a test light that is, but you want a meter because it will tell you how much current is flowing, which will help with troubleshooting.

Albertj

I finally got my horn working this morning All it took was a good used driver airbag module and about 45 minutes time to deactivate the SIR system, swap out the bag, and reconnect everything. The symptoms were that the 20A horn fuse would blow as quickly as you could install it. After reading about this issue on newer Rivs, I decided to take a chance and buy a used steering wheel assy on ebay for $50. Sometimes you do get lucky
Now I can get a legitimate inspection, which is a month overdue

Just found out that the horn does not work. GREAT. It had no fuse so I figured easy fix, I put the fuse back and nothing. So I assume at this point I have to physically check the horns but are they in the passenger or drivers side fender well?

Oh, now I see it. I'm sorry.

I've already replaced my rear trans mount and am about to replace it again. The design works but the design is intended to prevent vibration from entering the cabin at all - so the mount is by design too soft. Just replace it or have it replaced. I think there is a way to gut a Chrysler mount and put the rubber part in our mount.

As for the horns - there's a pair. One each behind each inner fender, more or less beside the turn signal lamp housing. When I got my Riv, one of my horns did not work (and the car was only 2 yrs old at the time). It was not a tough fix.

The horn mountings are interesting - only ones I've seen like 'em. Unless yours have already been changed, the horns actually have little plastic brackets riveted to the trumpet, and those brackets slip over little steel posts that are bolted to the frame.

You have several choices for replacing horns. What you can do:

- get the replacement horns from GM, they will come with all the brackets and wiring you need. The critical piece of wiring is a plastic 'weather tight' connector that mates to the wiring harness.

OR

- go to a junkyard and get some horns from mid-90s GM cars. Cadillac, Olds, Buick, Chevy - won't matter. What you are looking for are horns that have the connectors riveted onto the horn body. be sure you get different tones (the note is molded into or hot stamped onto the horn). There are as many as 4 tones available - A, C, D and F. On some horns the tone is molded onto the outlet of the trumpet. On others (the newer ones) it is not molded on per se but a code is hot-stamped onto the trumpet. The code tells you what the tone is - so what you want are horns with two different codes. Best bet I think is to find horns with mountings that can be removed. You will mostly find A and D or A and F on the cars in the junkyard. Also, you will likely find the horns mounted together on a single bracket in a Chevy or GMC truck. If you bend the bracket a bit it will probably fit in the horn space inside the driver's side fender. Not the passenger side because the air conditioning pipes will be in the way.

OR

- buy a set of FIAMM electric horns at an AutoZone, Advance Auto or what have you. Just wire 'em up the same way the original horns are wired. You may need some steel straps from a auto parts or hardware store to finish the installation.

When my horns broke I roamed the local pick-n-pull to get replacements. Got a set out of a Cavalier that were mounted as a pair, and got a 3rd note out of a Cadillac. They charged me a buck or two apiece, I forget which. I got a 4th note (low, low 300 Hz tone) off EBay - these are kinda hard to get. So when I blow the horn it is loud and annoying - sounds like the old Cadillac (60's vintage) that had 4-note horns standard.

OR

- hunt around on EBay for replacement horns. You're shooting for 1988 - 2002 roughly - but that 's only to get connectors that you don't have to modify, it's not a necessity.

If I were you I would not bother with air horns because there is not really enough room to mount 'em right, except maybe a FIAMM BadBoy which is a compact air horn and motor assembly inteneded for motorcycles.

Please post your further questions.

And oh yeah you might want to pull that fuse horn agian until you check your horn wiring Could be the relay is shot not the horns. Just disconnect the horns and put 12v from a battery charger across 'em to test.

Albertj

Mike how long have you had the car? I was just wondering why the horn fuse would have been pulled. It would seem that it was going off when it shouldn't maybe the alarm or horn button problem what do you think?

Thanks Albert. That helps a ton on the horn problem.

Update on the horn issue: Not but 5 min ago (12 midnight central) the horns decided to just start going off for some unknown reason. Haven't even touched the car since yesterday afternoon. Had to run outside and pull the fuse because the car did not come with the lock/unlock remote. On a side note, whats the best way to get a replacment clicker?

1995 Riv: I have only had the car for about a month or so. It took me a few weeks to remove the interior to get it good and clean from the filth that was in it. Since then I have been fixing and hunting down little issues.

As for why the fuse was pulled, well as you can see from my update that was probably the problem lol.

Now the question is what is causing it. Was it raining down there tonite?

what do you mean by going off? if you mean blowing constant it's one thing and if you mean the alarm (on-off-on-off-etc.) it's another - so please elaborate.

if it's the alarm I'd suspect the MALL. they are not that expensive.

you can buy replacement remoote off Ebay.

you might want to call Ed Morad and get a MALL and a couple working remotes as a package deal.

so... which is it?

Albertj

albertj wrote:

what do you mean by going off? if you mean blowing constant it's one thing and if you mean the alarm (on-off-on-off-etc.) it's another - so please elaborate.

if it's the alarm I'd suspect the MALL. they are not that expensive.

you can buy replacement remoote off Ebay.

you might want to call Ed Morad and get a MALL and a couple working remotes as a package deal.

so... which is it?

Albertj

Sorry for not elaborating. I just wasn't thinking when posting that up.

The horns were constant.

My 95 PA did that. I never figured it out. Had to unplug the horns(4 of them) the air bag light still came on and then went off when the car was started so I dont figure it had anything to do with the airbag...


Bert