FAQ: Horn Problems

deekster_caddy wrote:

Junkyards are required to blow the airbags? No wonder this industry is so screwed up...

http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2012/10/10/government-to-warn-motorists-tens-thousands-may-have-counterfeit-air-bags/

sorry to detract from your horn question.

it's required ***in New York*** and I have no real idea about elsewhere.

as I see it the bottom line is that this problem is fixable, and time will tell how to OP goes about it. The links I posted point to how to actually repair the horn cover as it is (it **Can** be disassembled and repaired to work) but it's time consuming and maybe not everyone's cup of tea to do that.

I had a spare airbag cover from before I replaced the column, It worked before then but the horn has not worked since replacing the column. I tried both. I don't like this generation of Riviera's all that much so I'm going back to a sixth gen. So I couldn't really care less to fix it. So I'm selling it I just need a working horn at arms length so it will pass inspection in Massachusetts for whoever buys it. Junk yards in New England are not required to blow airbags. If you are in New York and have that problem, all you have to do is go to Connecticut to get one.

I've finally got the major issues fixed on my '95 after having sat in a cellar garage for the past 4-5 year.  Now I'm trying to resolve some of the minor issues.  If anyone has had experience with this or can guide me to a previous thread where this was discussed, I would appreciate it.

1) The horn doesn't work.  I found a burnt circuit breaker and replaced it but still nothing.
2) The power trunk release
3) The power fuel door release

I pulled the back seat, checked the fuses and circuit breakers and all looked good.  
Any help here will be appreciated.

The passenger's door won't lock with the power switches.  However, the lock switches on both doors operate the driver's door.  I pulled a latch/lock from a car in a pic-n-pull but it was a bee-itch to get out.  I figure it will be that much harder to get back in.  Any hints on installation of this piece?


Thanks,
Ed

I wonder if it's a wiring issue in the door panel? Maybe just pop it off and start poking around with a volt meter?

Could be isolated problems, unrelated. Check these links for info:

Horn: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t4721-faq-horn-problems

Trunk: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t7435-trunk-lid-release-problem

Fuel Door: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t3111-faq-fuel-door-release-problems

Best of luck!

as for the horn my guess is the horn switch on the airbag.

as for the trunk and fuel door buttons my guess is a short or open in the bundle of wires that pass thru the drivers door leading edge/jamb.

The horn relay is in the under hood fuse box. Try swapping it out with another relay.

Look in the flexible coupling between the body and doors. Broken wires are VERY common, and they create all kinds of problems. It will take you maybe 20 minutes to check the above.

Larry is probably right about the horn relay, and I suspect a problem with the horn switch made it go bad... Or you may find the PO removed the relay to turn off the horn.

Be sure to check the trunk release override switch (I think your car has one) in the glove compartment.

albertj wrote:

Larry is probably right about the horn relay, and I suspect a problem with the horn switch made it go bad... Or you may find the PO removed the relay to turn off the horn.

Be sure to check the trunk release override switch (I think your car has one) in the glove compartment.

Yes, my 98 has a switch in the glove box to disable the trunk release button on the arm rest.

I just went through fixing my horn.  What I did was remove the relay, then carefully pry off the plastic cover, revealing the relay contacts.  I just cleaned them up a bit with a very small screwdriver, and some alcohol.  That was enough to get my horn working consistently.  It was cheaper than buying a new relay. I also discovered that one of my horns quit on me.  I wasn't able to get that working, so I'll have to replace it.  Can't have my Riv sounding like a Prius

LARRY70GS wrote:

albertj wrote:

Larry is probably right about the horn relay, and I suspect a problem with the horn switch made it go bad... Or you may find the PO removed the relay to turn off the horn.

Be sure to check the trunk release override switch (I think your car has one) in the glove compartment.

Yes, my 98 has a switch in the glove box to disable the trunk release button on the arm rest.

I just went through fixing my horn.  What I did was remove the relay, then carefully pry off the plastic cover, revealing the relay contacts.  I just cleaned them up a bit with a very small screwdriver, and some alcohol.  That was enough to get my horn working consistently.  It was cheaper than buying a new relay. I also discovered that one of my horns quit on me.  I wasn't able to get that working, so I'll have to replace it.  Can't have my Riv sounding like a Prius

The horns are in a damp location, you can't really cheap out.

I have had good luck with NOS aftermarket Signaltones, the older GM DELCO horns (not the newer ones) and I have had good service from FIAMM horns I installed on my son's car a few years ago.

Need to save money? get horns from junkyard. You are apt to find horns on GM cars that already have the plugs you need for the Riv harness, you can drill out the rivets and reuse the original RIV brackets on the new horns (take a GOOD look, it's an easy swap if you have a poprivet gun to atach the brackets to the replacements you get).

albertj wrote:

LARRY70GS wrote:

albertj wrote:

Larry is probably right about the horn relay, and I suspect a problem with the horn switch made it go bad... Or you may find the PO removed the relay to turn off the horn.

Be sure to check the trunk release override switch (I think your car has one) in the glove compartment.

Yes, my 98 has a switch in the glove box to disable the trunk release button on the arm rest.

I just went through fixing my horn.  What I did was remove the relay, then carefully pry off the plastic cover, revealing the relay contacts.  I just cleaned them up a bit with a very small screwdriver, and some alcohol.  That was enough to get my horn working consistently.  It was cheaper than buying a new relay. I also discovered that one of my horns quit on me.  I wasn't able to get that working, so I'll have to replace it.  Can't have my Riv sounding like a Prius

The horns are in a damp location, you can't really cheap out.

I have had good luck with NOS aftermarket Signaltones, the older GM DELCO horns (not the newer ones) and I have had good service from FIAMM horns I installed on my son's car a few years ago.

Need to save money?  get horns from junkyard.  You are apt to find horns on GM cars that already have the plugs you need for the Riv harness, you can drill out the rivets and reuse the original RIV brackets on the new horns (take a GOOD look, it's an easy swap if you have a poprivet gun to atach the brackets to the replacements you get).

Thanks Albert, that's definitely the way to go. I'll look into it.

Hey guys got a weird horn issue. One day when I hit the lock button on my remote the horn just started blaring continuously. I've checked the fuses and swapped the relay but if i stick that fuse back in the horn just comes on. I don't think its my steering wheel diaphragm because it only occurred when I hit the lock button on my fob. It chirpped for a moment then stuttered and then came on full.  I read a post on this topic awhile ago on this thread. Mentioned possible fault in RACM? If true can I somehow disable that circuit and regain horn functionality and retain keyless entry?    BTW I'm (relatively) new, and this is my first post.

Anyone know much about the RACM?

The horn on the passenger side isn't working anymore.  Isn't that the low note one?

98riv wrote:

The horn on the passenger side isn't working anymore.  Isn't that the low note one?

At this age... Just replace them both...

You can drill out the rivets holding the mounts on the horns, and transfer them to the new ones. You can get replacement horns from other GM cars cheap at a junkyard - and you might luck up on a mid 80s or earlier Cadillac with 4 note horn - they are mad cheap because they usually are overlooked, although you may have to hunt a while to find working ones. Similar mounts were used on all the Auroras, so you can raid those cars for mounting bits and electrical connectors that will work. Easiest way to install is to remove the front bumper cover (it's not that difficult) and replace the horns as mounted on the inner supports. You can add mounts, it will be obvious when you have the cover off and you're looking at the area that the horns are mounted in. Be sure to mount any additional horns so the cover clears them.

Hello,
I currently have an issue with my horn. Yesterday I installed a new radio head unit and figured to fix the multifunction switch while the dash was open. Months ago I had to open up the switch and bend the metal pin to keep the hazard signal switch from continuously popping back up at random times. For example, I would put on the high beams and the 4 ways would come on. This would also prevent the turning indicators from working properly. After that reinstall, I made the mistake of not properly connecting the wiper part and could not get washer fluid. After that reinstall though, the horn still worked. Yesterday I fixed the washer fluid issue but lost the horn. Also, the main display on the head unit isn't lighting up; you can tell it gets power because the buttons light up but the main digits are blank. The horn sort of works when I touch one of the metal pins from the multifunction switch to the locking ring on the steering column, but it's only one note. Any idea what it might be, and would this be causing the radio to not function? Thanks for your time.

R1V 1T UP wrote:

Hello,
I currently have an issue with my horn.  Yesterday I installed a new radio head unit and figured to fix the multifunction switch while the dash was open.  Months ago I had to open up the switch and bend the metal pin to keep the hazard signal switch from continuously popping back up at random times.  For example, I would put on the high beams and the 4 ways would come on.  This would also prevent the turning indicators from working properly.  After that reinstall, I made the mistake of not properly connecting the wiper part and could not get washer fluid.  After that reinstall though, the horn still worked.  Yesterday I fixed the washer fluid issue but lost the horn.  Also, the main display on the head unit isn't lighting up; you can tell it gets power because the buttons light up but the main digits are blank.  The horn sort of works when I touch one of the metal pins from the multifunction switch to the locking ring on the steering column, but it's only one note.  Any idea what it might be, and would this be causing the radio to not function?   Thanks for your time.

I think you have simultaneous but unrelated problems.

Can't help you with the head unit unless I know whose it is. Some have inputs to dim the display and stuff.

You may be able to get a junkyard multifunction switch that is similar to the Rivs from a pick and pull, or a nonworking one off another Riv, and scavenge it for internal parts. Not sure what the donor car would be.

If you hit horn power and only one horn works, you most likely need to get under the car and replace
the nonworking horn. They are in a damp location and can fail there.

While you have the steering column clamshell apart, check for chafing wires. They can short to ground and cause all kinds of havoc if not rerouted and secured as factory did.

Thanks for the reply. The multifunction switch works perfectly now- the horn just stopped working when I reassembled the column. I'll check the wires.

As for the radio head unit, the replacement is the exact same as factory except refurbished and with Bluetooth added. Update: I checked the wiring behind the unit and things seemed fine if not a little cramped. I tried fishing the wires out the back a little but I doubt that did anything. Now the display on the HVAC control unit is glaring brightly as if the headlights are off and none of the buttons light up except temp control. Little gremlins are everywhere and it feels like it's an easy fix. I'm just not experienced enough yet to find the trouble spots.